Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
well actually no, not so flash, PCX sells the 1200v version of same for about the same for the 2.2u and almost 20usd cheaper for the 3.3u and if you are lucky you can catch a sale at PCX and get 15% off. in fact I think theres one on at the moment.

they'll be HUGE though!! like 40x60mm or so

I actually prefer the silver/oil and silver/gold/oil versions, I would take the silver/oil over the plain silver/gold anyday

PCX have 3.3uf at $109US each .The dealer in the UK has same value 800v at £78 per PAIR ie £39 each.
 
ahh sorry when I did that calc was forgetting the pair. sure go for it then, havent seen the 800v arts for a while, must be old stock. I do remember that they had some problems with the old mundorf in hot situations though, so you might want to google that for reports. they then released the 1200v range which supposedly fixed the issue
 
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
ahh sorry when I did that calc was forgetting the pair. sure go for it then, havent seen the 800v arts for a while, must be old stock. I do remember that they had some problems with the old mundorf in hot situations though, so you might want to google that for reports. they then released the 1200v range which supposedly fixed the issue

Thanks for that I'll check it out. I think they must be NOS as they've advertised for a while now. Can't make up my mind whether to get these or try the Russian caps suggested by Salas and dvb-projeckt.:confused:
 
The last page or two of this thread have provide a lot of interesting, thought provoking material... I've done a little searching but I can't find much information on Output Resistors (type, wattage etc). I found a little bit on Output Capacitors. Can anyone provide some links (in this forum and out) to additional info on both Output Resistors and Output Capacitors. I'm specifically wondering both have any relation to type and Z of the loudspeakers to be used.

There is so much to learn from this forum and its members, I'm thankful that I found it.

Thanks,
 
Hot rod dcb1

Finally got this thing powered up. I just got done with my Blame ES and started to finish mounting this on its heatsink. I went with Salas suggestion and just placed the 240/9240 pairs on one sink, After playing with heatsink configurations the 2 heatsinks really was overkill.

All thing lit up without any smoke.

I am getting 1.73/-1.49 across the 10r resistors. Output is 9.96v/-9.94v, I thinking this is due to the original 10r resistors being used and not the 8r2 as suggested by Salas. Is it ok at this voltage or should I use the 8r2.

I think all is ok, I just need to listen for relay click as suggested in build guide. I just received the 20k pot yesterday (SMD version that been recommended here) and need to assemble LDR volume control.

Can I just tap power from the output for the LDR?, it will be regulated with a teddyreg or from tX to teddy or TX to another RC filter then teddy?
 

Attachments

  • DSC00465edit.jpg
    DSC00465edit.jpg
    182.1 KB · Views: 752
is there any benefit in this circuit to use a sic zero rec schottkey diode in place of the MUR820? not an over the top ixys part, but an infinieon, cree, or vishay siliconix midrange part at about 5USD each? for instance CREE CSD-04060A or infineon IDT06S60CXK
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Finally got this thing powered up. I just got done with my Blame ES and started to finish mounting this on its heatsink. I went with Salas suggestion and just placed the 240/9240 pairs on one sink, After playing with heatsink configurations the 2 heatsinks really was overkill.

All thing lit up without any smoke.

I am getting 1.73/-1.49 across the 10r resistors. Output is 9.96v/-9.94v, I thinking this is due to the original 10r resistors being used and not the 8r2 as suggested by Salas. Is it ok at this voltage or should I use the 8r2.

I think all is ok, I just need to listen for relay click as suggested in build guide. I just received the 20k pot yesterday (SMD version that been recommended here) and need to assemble LDR volume control.

Can I just tap power from the output for the LDR?, it will be regulated with a teddyreg or from tX to teddy or TX to another RC filter then teddy?

Looks like your Vgs in the CCS Mosets allows the 8R2 with ease, since your resistor voltage drop is on the conservative side. Maybe its due you got enough high input voltage with that overspec Tx. (Mosfets change Vgs a little with current and voltage and have own spec tolerance). But we have seen resistor voltage numbers between 1.5-2.1V many times in general for DCB1. Did you use the CRC dropping you were planning? How much is the DC on second capacitors, and most importantly how much is your DC offset mV on audio out? Looks nice carried on the sink that way.

P.S. Don't know the needs of the Teddy for its CCS, I would prefer it taps from TX to its own rectification and filter.
 
cool OK, well as long as there isnt any harm in it, i'll give it a try. I already have plenty of MUR820 here from other projects, so might try both and see if there is an audible change.

and just to confirm, I can use any combination and colour LEDs as long as the total VF of the strings is correct and channels match?
 
Salas, i did as you suggested the 39r are underneath the board and used the 10r in lieu of the 8r2 since the ones I had were 8k2 by mistake. The voltage of 2nd cap is 23v & -24.8v.

I'm not sure if this is the correct reading you want for the audio out offset, but I measured from ground to out and it is 0.002v.

Only using the teddy reg since I have boards on hand already built with few minor changes to resistor values, I would prefer the salas mini shunt and I do have the board from quangho but not the parts.
 
I'm not sure if this is the correct reading you want for the audio out offset, but I measured from ground to out and it is 0.002v.
0.002V = 2mV
That is unusually high for a DCB1 build.

How accurate is the voltage scale of your DMM?

It is good to have a meter that can read 199.9mVdc and can also read 199.9mVac. these can be bought cheaply with <=+-0.5%+-1digit accuracy.
+-1%+-2digits should be very cheap and the worst you should buy.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
One English guy using an optivol recommended taking out the local 317 and just using a v1 dedicated reg for that as his best, after he used it as pre reg even.

Your Vin is not bad for 35V filter caps. With 8R2 it will give more mA and drop also. But it works fine as for now. 2mV is good enough offset for no problems but it can go lower.
 
Hi,
0.2mV is good. That offset is typical of well selected Idss pairs.
1.8mV is poor for a selected pair. This low output offset will not damage any following equipment.
Will the following equipment multiply that 1.8mV to a value that could interfere with performance? An AC coupled power amplifier will accept 1.8mV of offset without any problem.