Pics
Previous pic showed the removeable front panel, so that I can use different drivers. There's a hole in the top section at the back as well, covered with a plate. Removing it, will allow me to transform it in bipole, while the different front panels allow me to equally try the Philips with whizzer.
Previous pic showed the removeable front panel, so that I can use different drivers. There's a hole in the top section at the back as well, covered with a plate. Removing it, will allow me to transform it in bipole, while the different front panels allow me to equally try the Philips with whizzer.
Attachments
FE103A or those Philips things?
BTW, I would suggest avoiding spikes. They create a resonant cavety under the cabinet: not what you want, especially with a TL, even one like the Zigma, which is not known for its ability to create high SPLs.
Try this instead: veneer a small-ish paving stone with some cheap iron-on veneer. Better yet, as the footprint of the Zigma is small, just use a nice cheap marble kitchen chopping-block. Apply some Blu-tak (or whatever equivelent you can find) in sheets to the bottom of the Zigma cabinet (so that the base is completly covered with the stuff), then press firmly down onto the new base. Instand solution to stability, and it'll improve the bass and mids too as it'll all but eliminate this source of cabinet vibration.
Works for me at any rate, and I've tried the same technique with quite a few different speakers now. All showed a marked improvement over both un-spiked, and spiked forms.
Just a thought.
Best
Scott
BTW, I would suggest avoiding spikes. They create a resonant cavety under the cabinet: not what you want, especially with a TL, even one like the Zigma, which is not known for its ability to create high SPLs.
Try this instead: veneer a small-ish paving stone with some cheap iron-on veneer. Better yet, as the footprint of the Zigma is small, just use a nice cheap marble kitchen chopping-block. Apply some Blu-tak (or whatever equivelent you can find) in sheets to the bottom of the Zigma cabinet (so that the base is completly covered with the stuff), then press firmly down onto the new base. Instand solution to stability, and it'll improve the bass and mids too as it'll all but eliminate this source of cabinet vibration.
Works for me at any rate, and I've tried the same technique with quite a few different speakers now. All showed a marked improvement over both un-spiked, and spiked forms.
Just a thought.
Best
Scott
Re: Re: Pics
Hi Dave,
The driver is one that I took with me in the garage, so that I wouldn't risk damaging the Foster ones. They have the same dimensions.
A friend of mine gave me 4 of them. He used them as mids for a HUGE system he has in his basement.
No trademark, model: YDD-103-1, it says: 50W, 8 ohms, 0 - 10khz and they are priced at around $6.00 u.s. (big magnet, paper cone, covered with some glossy product..) Looks alot like the driver that was used in the Minimus-7
planet10 said:
Hi Dave,
The driver is one that I took with me in the garage, so that I wouldn't risk damaging the Foster ones. They have the same dimensions.
A friend of mine gave me 4 of them. He used them as mids for a HUGE system he has in his basement.
No trademark, model: YDD-103-1, it says: 50W, 8 ohms, 0 - 10khz and they are priced at around $6.00 u.s. (big magnet, paper cone, covered with some glossy product..) Looks alot like the driver that was used in the Minimus-7
Zigma stand
Well, I didn't think to the resonant cavity underneath.. Makes sense. I thought about building a base with 2 layers, filled with lead shots.. but your idea of some marble or stone block.. humm.. quite inspiring. There are a couple of granite plants in the area, I'd bet it would be cheap and nice..
Scottmoose said:
Well, I didn't think to the resonant cavity underneath.. Makes sense. I thought about building a base with 2 layers, filled with lead shots.. but your idea of some marble or stone block.. humm.. quite inspiring. There are a couple of granite plants in the area, I'd bet it would be cheap and nice..
I'd be concerned about the use of lead shot unless it was encased in something to prevent audible vibrations (i.e. resin, straight white glue, whatever).... Would be great if whatever the weight-providing-source was could be removed when you move the speakers. Kind of a slide-lock mass-in-resin.
I do like the marble idea.... and blutak has got to be the speaker builder's secret weapon. Easy to remove the weight, looks good, but rather pricey.
Funny that I've read on TL designs for years and have never seen a discussion of feet/spikes that was unique to TLs.
travis
P.S. Pulled some numbers on density of steel (rather then lead). Assuming you had a typical small tl base that was 4" x 8" internal, and made a compartment 2" high for the 'mass' and were 80% efficient in filling it (at .283 lbs/cu in) you'd get about 15 lbs (7 kg) of steel in there, plus whatever the weight of the glue/resin/whatever surrounding the metal was. My thought with using steel was the ability to scavenge random parts/rubish to put in there as opposed to buying lead shot. For lead in lieu of steel, add about 50% to the weight... keep in mind, lots of 'lead' shot is actually steel now - health reasons.
I do like the marble idea.... and blutak has got to be the speaker builder's secret weapon. Easy to remove the weight, looks good, but rather pricey.
Funny that I've read on TL designs for years and have never seen a discussion of feet/spikes that was unique to TLs.
travis
P.S. Pulled some numbers on density of steel (rather then lead). Assuming you had a typical small tl base that was 4" x 8" internal, and made a compartment 2" high for the 'mass' and were 80% efficient in filling it (at .283 lbs/cu in) you'd get about 15 lbs (7 kg) of steel in there, plus whatever the weight of the glue/resin/whatever surrounding the metal was. My thought with using steel was the ability to scavenge random parts/rubish to put in there as opposed to buying lead shot. For lead in lieu of steel, add about 50% to the weight... keep in mind, lots of 'lead' shot is actually steel now - health reasons.
Makes sense.
With the other, there's a number of options other than Blu-Tak of course. Here in the UK, I spent about, oh, £10 on 4 packs to cover the base of my last set of straight ML TLs. Children's play-dough also works, though not quite as well; a more perminet type would be some sillicone sealent. The Blu-Tak or White-Tak etc has advantages though in being re-usable.
I dislike spikes in general for all forms of speakers, unless, like the new Bosendofors, they have been designed with specific resonant features from the outset. The same trick works well with BR (especially BB4 alignment), IB and other designs, but is especially useful for larger quarter-wave types which need as dead a cabinet as possible -not something readily achievable with them standing on spikes (and another point -these are usually made of some form of metal yes? Metal resonantes badly; at different frequencies for sure, but usually somewhere in the audio-band.) with a resonant acoustic cavity underneath, allowing vibrations back into the cabinet structure.
Another idea is to build a small-ish sand-box to stand the speakers on; works fine; but no real advantage over the marble / Blu-Tak method.
Cheers
Scott
With the other, there's a number of options other than Blu-Tak of course. Here in the UK, I spent about, oh, £10 on 4 packs to cover the base of my last set of straight ML TLs. Children's play-dough also works, though not quite as well; a more perminet type would be some sillicone sealent. The Blu-Tak or White-Tak etc has advantages though in being re-usable.
I dislike spikes in general for all forms of speakers, unless, like the new Bosendofors, they have been designed with specific resonant features from the outset. The same trick works well with BR (especially BB4 alignment), IB and other designs, but is especially useful for larger quarter-wave types which need as dead a cabinet as possible -not something readily achievable with them standing on spikes (and another point -these are usually made of some form of metal yes? Metal resonantes badly; at different frequencies for sure, but usually somewhere in the audio-band.) with a resonant acoustic cavity underneath, allowing vibrations back into the cabinet structure.
Another idea is to build a small-ish sand-box to stand the speakers on; works fine; but no real advantage over the marble / Blu-Tak method.
Cheers
Scott
Blue-Tak
Hi Scott,
Excuse my ignorance (again
) but what is "Blue-Tak" exactly? is it that blue soft stuff that one use to hang on posters to the walls (over gypsum) and that's sticky? How can this stuff hold anything hard (like a speaker cabinet) to a marble or stone base?
About the Zigmas, I went to cinema last night (guilty me
) and should spend a part of the evening in the garage, completing them. Just attaching the base to the cabinets, and then, giving it a try.
Crossing my fingers
Scottmoose said:
Hi Scott,
Excuse my ignorance (again
) but what is "Blue-Tak" exactly? is it that blue soft stuff that one use to hang on posters to the walls (over gypsum) and that's sticky? How can this stuff hold anything hard (like a speaker cabinet) to a marble or stone base?About the Zigmas, I went to cinema last night (guilty me
) and should spend a part of the evening in the garage, completing them. Just attaching the base to the cabinets, and then, giving it a try. Crossing my fingers
http://www.glubie.com/01_Pages/Blu-Tack.htm
Sylver300B - You're thinking of the right product. Typical product link above.... Remember it's not to 'attach' the marble/stone to the enclosure, just to support the speaker on the enclosure while providing vibration isolation.
The tackyness is just enough to ensure the speaker isn't going to slide around - not to ensure the speaker can't be knocked off of the base.
travis
Sylver300B - You're thinking of the right product. Typical product link above.... Remember it's not to 'attach' the marble/stone to the enclosure, just to support the speaker on the enclosure while providing vibration isolation.
The tackyness is just enough to ensure the speaker isn't going to slide around - not to ensure the speaker can't be knocked off of the base.
travis
Air tight seal Problem. Need help.
Hi guys.
Installing drivers tonight, I noticed that: 1- it's difficult to make so that the plywood around the driver doesn't block the air flow, since the driver is quite small. I did chamfer the hole, but this doesn't seem to be enough..
2- Though I enlarged the holes quite a bit with a Dremel, it looks as if the driver can't sit exactly at its place, as if the little ridge around the basket gets the driver a little rocking on the face plate. I can even see some light going between driver and face plate when I hold it under the light. Then, it is not "air tight".
Could I use Blue-Tack as a seal around the driver??
Same for the face plate itself. I did make tolerances very tight, so that it is as airtight as possible. But can I use bluetack for wood on wood, like a gasket seal?
And for you, Planet 10, would Blue Tack be right to use as a vibration absorber, around the magnet/basket joint??
Well, I ceased saying that listening to it is for tomorow. It will be when they are ready.. (can't wait!)
Hi guys.
Installing drivers tonight, I noticed that: 1- it's difficult to make so that the plywood around the driver doesn't block the air flow, since the driver is quite small. I did chamfer the hole, but this doesn't seem to be enough..
2- Though I enlarged the holes quite a bit with a Dremel, it looks as if the driver can't sit exactly at its place, as if the little ridge around the basket gets the driver a little rocking on the face plate. I can even see some light going between driver and face plate when I hold it under the light. Then, it is not "air tight".
Could I use Blue-Tack as a seal around the driver??
Same for the face plate itself. I did make tolerances very tight, so that it is as airtight as possible. But can I use bluetack for wood on wood, like a gasket seal?
And for you, Planet 10, would Blue Tack be right to use as a vibration absorber, around the magnet/basket joint??
Well, I ceased saying that listening to it is for tomorow. It will be when they are ready.. (can't wait!)
Sylver,
It sounds like the driver hole is not quite big enough, the driver should be able to sit flush on the baffle. Unless of course it was designed to be mounted from the rear of the baffle. If for some reason you cann't get it to sit flush, they do sell speaker gasket tape stuff. Pretty cheap I think at PE (they give the stuff away if you buy a woofer). You could probably get something similar at a hardware store though, don't know what kind of gasket/product it would be but I imagine if you look around you'll find something. This would also work for the mounting plate.
For the basket this is what is most recomended by people. Although I have yet to try it... haven't found it locally, and am to cheap so far to order off of the internet.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/ideal/ide02-18.html
good luck
Joe
edit: I think rope caulk is what it is you want at the hardware store
It sounds like the driver hole is not quite big enough, the driver should be able to sit flush on the baffle. Unless of course it was designed to be mounted from the rear of the baffle. If for some reason you cann't get it to sit flush, they do sell speaker gasket tape stuff. Pretty cheap I think at PE (they give the stuff away if you buy a woofer). You could probably get something similar at a hardware store though, don't know what kind of gasket/product it would be but I imagine if you look around you'll find something. This would also work for the mounting plate.
For the basket this is what is most recomended by people. Although I have yet to try it... haven't found it locally, and am to cheap so far to order off of the internet.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/ideal/ide02-18.html
good luck
Joe
edit: I think rope caulk is what it is you want at the hardware store
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