Just swapped in some EH 6ca7s and I already prefer them to the JJ E34Ls that were in there before. The JJs weren't bad at all but I find the EH 6ca7s to be more musical with a more three dimensional image. Instruments and voices are better defined and have more of a sense of space around them. Bass is more defined with individual notes being more recognizable. Mids are liquid and clear. Highs are quite clear to the point where I'm expecting them to become harsh but they remain smooth. The most noticeable difference is in the image though. The JJs were razor sharp and had excellent imaging but the EHs edge them out with a more realism in height and depth.
I'm rambling, the bottom line is that their are more emotionally engaging for me and they haven't even settled in yet.
I'm going to install the Dynamicaps now...
I'm rambling, the bottom line is that their are more emotionally engaging for me and they haven't even settled in yet.
I'm going to install the Dynamicaps now...
Dynamicaps in as well as some Takman resistors in the coupling stage (in pink). I was able to place the 4 0.1uF 450v caps on the top of the board with sufficient clearance leaving plenty of room for the 2 large 0.22uF 630v caps underneath.
My 6ca7s are still settling in as are the caps but initial impressions are good. The sound is clear and smooth and my speakers are really doing the disappearing act now.
My 6ca7s are still settling in as are the caps but initial impressions are good. The sound is clear and smooth and my speakers are really doing the disappearing act now.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well done, should shine soon
I didn't get round to replacing the two resistors, is it worth doing ?
There are 4 actually. I did A-B listening with and without the resistors and I did not notice a difference. So unless you have the case opened for other work and have the resistors on hand it is not worth doing.
I'm considering changing the volume pot for the Goldpoint stepped attenuator.
I have never done a mod like this before. Would there be a distinct sonic benefit in doing so?
This is what I used:
TAKMAN-71741
1K0 / 1 Watt, REX, Carbon Film, 2%
I'm not sure if Takman are the ideal choice but I've not run across too many negative comments about them.
You have two choices on how you want to install them One is to clip the old resistors off at the body of the resistor and solder the left over leads to the leads of the new resistors. The other is to remove the board and install them directly to the board after desoldering the old ones. To remove the board you have to remove the power transformer.
TAKMAN-71741
1K0 / 1 Watt, REX, Carbon Film, 2%
I'm not sure if Takman are the ideal choice but I've not run across too many negative comments about them.
You have two choices on how you want to install them One is to clip the old resistors off at the body of the resistor and solder the left over leads to the leads of the new resistors. The other is to remove the board and install them directly to the board after desoldering the old ones. To remove the board you have to remove the power transformer.
I have found a Takman supplier over here, but can't find the one you mention:
Takman carbon film Resistors for Audio
Anyone, Are these a good choice for cathode resistor bypass ?
Electrolytic Capacitors 63v 220uf 105'C C101 4pcs | eBay
Electrolytic Capacitors 63v 220uf 105'C C101 4pcs | eBay
These seem to be highly regarded, but is 0.75 watt enough ? :
Amtrans AMGR carbon film Resistors,0.75 watt and 2 watt
Amtrans AMGR carbon film Resistors,0.75 watt and 2 watt
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Just about to order, but what about Shinkoh ? Can't see 1 ohm, would 1k2 do ? but not cheap.. 
1W Shinkoh Resistors - Hifi Collective
1W Shinkoh Resistors - Hifi Collective
Is stick with the 1K value. How about these?? Go big!
(RES-45-2W-1K-NM) - 1K 2W Audio Note Tantalum Non-magnetic Hifi Collective
(RES-45-2W-1K-NM) - 1K 2W Audio Note Tantalum Non-magnetic Hifi Collective
The electrolytics are polar. Do they have a positive and negative side? If not I'm pretty sure the arrow points towards the negative side. The cover of the amp shows where the positive and negative points are that you'll be soldering to. The negative sides are the two inside points and the outside points are the positive side. Does that make sense? I'm not sure about the resistors, I just installed them with the stripes facing the same way as the originals.