• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Yaqin MC-100B - not as powerful as advertised, but still a good value.

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I thought, haven't I seen that before and i checked my backup drive at home;

Reason why i never dear to try it out is that this changes is for the first version of mc100. Dated back to 2008-09. At this time pt was wrong (220v) and later (2012) yaqin made some changes for EU.

I just thought these changes applied for the "old" mc100 and maybe i could fry something in mine using these values.

For example at that time B+ was measured 430 something and now at same place around 485-510V.

I tried doing this resistor change in my amp but it didn't like it.
I got hardly any volume at all with a distorted sound so I replaced the old transistors.
I also changed the feedback cap to mkp 68pf I couldn't get 72pf I havnt noticed any difference changing this cap.
 
IMG_20141015_154944.jpgIMG_20141015_155025.jpg
I changed my capacitors to jantzen with good results :)

I've tested he Jantzen Superior Z in my MC100B. They sounded to my ears a bit "nervous" and little lean and cold. They sounded good on piano though I remember.

I also tested Mundorf Supreme Silver In oil and they had a overall better sound but I didn't like them because they said; "hey come listen to me, here is plenty of detail" type of sound and i couldn't focus on the music at all..

Wima MKP 10 was also in place as a low cost alternative but they sounded flat and dull. I've found them to be much better in other curcuits,

After all this I took a turn to Intertechnics Audyn-Cap Reference and I had them a long time.. All the warmth in the mid I wanted and all the details but i listened to music this time. Just for fun I also decided to try True Copper from same company and yes even more coherent and natural.
 
How does it sound without FB loop?

It sounds More open and much louder at the same volume imaging is even more in the room and out of the box away from the speakers type of thing.
There's a down side that bass is less solid on drumming and has less impact but it's only slight.
I fitted switches so I could switch the feedback loop in or out and I now prefere it off.
If you fit switches turn the volume right down or turn the amp off when operating them it didn't like me using the switches with the volume up.
 
I've tested he Jantzen Superior Z in my MC100B. They sounded to my ears a bit "nervous" and little lean and cold. They sounded good on piano though I remember.

I also tested Mundorf Supreme Silver In oil and they had a overall better sound but I didn't like them because they said; "hey come listen to me, here is plenty of detail" type of sound and i couldn't focus on the music at all..

Wima MKP 10 was also in place as a low cost alternative but they sounded flat and dull. I've found them to be much better in other curcuits,

After all this I took a turn to Intertechnics Audyn-Cap Reference and I had them a long time.. All the warmth in the mid I wanted and all the details but i listened to music this time. Just for fun I also decided to try True Copper from same company and yes even more coherent and natural.
Thanks Martin I will try the Audyn true copper but it will be after Christmas now thanks anyway.
 
Hello modifiers,
Let me suggest to overcome the low B+ of yaqui by substituting the Kt77/EL34 tube biased to under 50ma. The reason: lower current means higher B+.

When the original poster said he biased the Kt88 at 85mA, I would like to know how low the B+ voltage dropped.

Hi I have got tungsol KT120s set at 120ma but I have not checked my B+.
I did try changing all resistors to the suggested resistors on the circuit diagramme on this thread.
I didn't have the 18k resistors so I used 20k instead but my amp didn't like this at all.
I got a low level distorted sound at full volume no sound until volume was half way so I put the old resistors back.
I have added switches so I can remove my feedback loop and I think it sounds better without feedback loop.
I have replaced all blue capacitors with jantzen silver capacitors which gave me a slightly clearer sound and slightly more bass.
 
Hello modifiers,
Let me suggest to overcome the low B+ of yaqui by substituting the Kt77/EL34 tube biased to under 50ma. The reason: lower current means higher B+.

When the original poster said he biased the Kt88 at 85mA, I would like to know how low the B+ voltage dropped.
Lower current through output tubes does increase plate voltage, but not much. There is 15-20 volts difference between 50 and 85 mA mostly due to loss in output transformers.
 
I recently purchased a yaqin mc-100b and have some questions. Let me explain my situation.

When I first turned the unit on it sounded great, even with the stock tubes. the third time i turned it on, it blew the circuit breaker in my house and that was a warning sign to me. The next time i turned it on it blew the fuse for the right channel.

I started reading the forums and read about voltage issues. I measured my voltage and it is 125V. So I purchased a APC regulator and set it to 110V and now my voltage is set at that level. After several more listening sessions, the power problem seemed to be fixed. But a new problem started. I noticed that occasionally, (about every 15 minutes on average), I would hear a small popping sound out of the speakers.

I had already learned about tube rolling so that was my next step. Next I rolled all of the stock tubes (gold lion 12ax7, eh 6sn7 and gold lion kt88. The sound from the amp is very good (I assume it will improve after the tubes burn in), but i still have that pop sound.

My question is - what is causing that sound and how can i fix it. Also, does the pop hurt the speakers?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Steve
 
Popping - have you installed Full Music 12AX7's as this is a common problem with these. Of course other 12AX7's may exhibit this, have you tried the amp with the 12AX7's pulled? It is quite safe to run the amp with these removed for taking a listen for popping sound.
 
I have seen several schematics of the MC-100 B on this forum. Has anyone put together a parts list that not only includes values, but the make of the parts?

Is there a consensus about whether replacing caps and resistors with better quality (not different value) parts actually improves the sound?
 
FYI, I was getting popping and weird noises from my Yaqin. I had an ipod connected to one of the inputs via a dock.... aaaaand the Yaqin was actually picking up the ipod's wifi signals, and giving me random pops and "squiggles" for lack of a better term. This was most noticeable when playing records (on a different input!) but was present for all inputs.

Simply turning off wifi on the ipod fixed the problem.

Dunno if it's the same for you, but sometimes it's the oddest things that cause weird noises. Any kind of bluetooth or wifi device nearby is suspect.

Charles.
 
I have seen several schematics of the MC-100 B on this forum. Has anyone put together a parts list that not only includes values, but the make of the parts?

Is there a consensus about whether replacing caps and resistors with better quality (not different value) parts actually improves the sound?
Resistors are OK there. I would change volume pot to a better one. Also coupling capacitors can be improved. Power supply seems OK unless you want to implement active regulator or add choke.
 
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