Hi all
Event Horizon expresses strong doubts about the usefulness of adding a magnet that does not have a snug fit to the base plate of the woofer magnet. Well, I had similar doubts before consulting a friend of mine who is an acoustical engineer. As I recall it he said that using a smaller magnet that attaches to the curved part of the back plate only moves the magnetic field of the new magnet a couple of mm out of the ideal position which is of minor importance. After having tried adding a magnet I am convinced that this one of the cheapest and most gratifying mods that you can do to improve the lower register. If you have the magnet I would like to encourage you to try this before passing judgement.
The magnet does not to have to be glued to the back of the woofer. You turn the repelling side of the new magnet towards the back plate of the woofers magnet. When it gets really close it is attracted and attaches without the need for any glue.
Hopefully I will be successful in attaching pictures. It is the magnet and the woofer of the NS-2000 joined together without the help of any glue.
I tried to ad more pictures but was unsuccessful.
Event Horizon expresses strong doubts about the usefulness of adding a magnet that does not have a snug fit to the base plate of the woofer magnet. Well, I had similar doubts before consulting a friend of mine who is an acoustical engineer. As I recall it he said that using a smaller magnet that attaches to the curved part of the back plate only moves the magnetic field of the new magnet a couple of mm out of the ideal position which is of minor importance. After having tried adding a magnet I am convinced that this one of the cheapest and most gratifying mods that you can do to improve the lower register. If you have the magnet I would like to encourage you to try this before passing judgement.
The magnet does not to have to be glued to the back of the woofer. You turn the repelling side of the new magnet towards the back plate of the woofers magnet. When it gets really close it is attracted and attaches without the need for any glue.
Hopefully I will be successful in attaching pictures. It is the magnet and the woofer of the NS-2000 joined together without the help of any glue.
I tried to ad more pictures but was unsuccessful.
Attachments
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Interesting that you say it effects the bass end. I would expect this as the magnet will alter the Qts, however the standard driver Qts is approximately 0.22 which is pretty low & indicative of an already pretty strong magnet & an overdamped response in the standard cabinet.
By placing the magnet on the back as you have done with the poles repelling each other you have slightly increased the concentration of magnetic field in the gap yet again, lowering the driver Qts even more. I shouldn't think it'd be much at all in all honesty & as i mentioned, doing this is much more sucssesful when the whole magnet is flat against the rear plate of the motor structure.
If you notice a difference & happen to prefer it then fair enough
By placing the magnet on the back as you have done with the poles repelling each other you have slightly increased the concentration of magnetic field in the gap yet again, lowering the driver Qts even more. I shouldn't think it'd be much at all in all honesty & as i mentioned, doing this is much more sucssesful when the whole magnet is flat against the rear plate of the motor structure.
If you notice a difference & happen to prefer it then fair enough
Congratulations on the mint pair Perfrej,
let em cook for a couple of weeks. The numerous caps and internal wiring needs it.
I'm driving mine with a modified Tad-60 (KT88) through the 4ohm taps and absolutely love them. Wish they had more (deeper) bass though. Got em 16inch Stands and they are extremely coherent and open sounding. I also changed out the binding post (perfect match and must do first) Ebay $ 18.95 or Parts express $2.00 ! Beefed up the silly 24 gauge wiring from the post to the cross over board , shortened the length of the internal wiring and changed some caps.
I noticed an improvement with each step of these mods.
How many of you have tried removing the fiberglass from behind the woofer and liked the effects of this. I'd think this would lead to "a peaky" bass. I'll have to give it a try.
Stan
let em cook for a couple of weeks. The numerous caps and internal wiring needs it.
I'm driving mine with a modified Tad-60 (KT88) through the 4ohm taps and absolutely love them. Wish they had more (deeper) bass though. Got em 16inch Stands and they are extremely coherent and open sounding. I also changed out the binding post (perfect match and must do first) Ebay $ 18.95 or Parts express $2.00 ! Beefed up the silly 24 gauge wiring from the post to the cross over board , shortened the length of the internal wiring and changed some caps.
I noticed an improvement with each step of these mods.
How many of you have tried removing the fiberglass from behind the woofer and liked the effects of this. I'd think this would lead to "a peaky" bass. I'll have to give it a try.
Stan
Hi Stan, it won't result in a "peaky" bass, that is totally dependant on cabinet volume
What it might do is affect lower midrange with a loss of detail due to reflections from the back of the cabinet, not good imo. As for running them with valve amps, well this is why the Japanese love them & the americans bought them in spades They weren't very much appreciated in the UK because at the time they were introduced most British amps were beefy class B jobs & the Yams showed how crap the amplifiers were lol. No wonder everyone in the UK loved soft domes & Bextrene or Polypropylene drivers - yeuch 
Bests, Mark.
Thanks Mark,
yeah, this makes sense. On the subject of the mid range, don't sell the l-pads short! Yes in absolute terms of purity of the signal, resisters are cleaner,however in my experience with the importance of being able to dial in just the right amount of output from each driver is critical to, a speaker systems coherence. This also allows one to "tweak' the speaker for any given amp and or component.Just the slightest adjustment, like a 1/2 millimeter turn of the l-pad in either direction can yield the difference between harsh sounding to sonic nirvana.
Stan
yeah, this makes sense. On the subject of the mid range, don't sell the l-pads short! Yes in absolute terms of purity of the signal, resisters are cleaner,however in my experience with the importance of being able to dial in just the right amount of output from each driver is critical to, a speaker systems coherence. This also allows one to "tweak' the speaker for any given amp and or component.Just the slightest adjustment, like a 1/2 millimeter turn of the l-pad in either direction can yield the difference between harsh sounding to sonic nirvana.
Stan
update on thiel
Hello you all. I know that mounting a Thiel woofer in a NS1000 may be like we say in Holland: cursing in the church. That means something you don't mention here. But I would like to share my experience here anyway.
Now the speakers are complete. That is the basic conclusion. The Thiel's are quite easy, give very nice lows (tight and down to 19 Hz) and give more air to the mids and high's. The 3D effect is much better now. I can recommend it to anyone. It costs a bit, but is worth in IMO.
Hello you all. I know that mounting a Thiel woofer in a NS1000 may be like we say in Holland: cursing in the church. That means something you don't mention here. But I would like to share my experience here anyway.
Now the speakers are complete. That is the basic conclusion.
The Thiel's are quite easy, give very nice lows (tight and down to 19 Hz) and give more air to the mids and high's. The 3D effect is much better now. I can recommend it to anyone. It costs a bit, but is worth in IMO.Hi Stan,
I actually just replaced the originals, without adjusting the crossover. I already modded that half a year ago. See a few pages back. The Thiels work well upto 500 Hz and have the same sensitivity (89 db). I haven't measured them, so I don't know if they are very flat, but they sound nice.
Another question: does anyone know if the original coils in the crossover are made of silver? Or silvercoated copper?
I actually just replaced the originals, without adjusting the crossover. I already modded that half a year ago. See a few pages back. The Thiels work well upto 500 Hz and have the same sensitivity (89 db). I haven't measured them, so I don't know if they are very flat, but they sound nice.
Another question: does anyone know if the original coils in the crossover are made of silver? Or silvercoated copper?
Hi, I used the C220-T6. They say the underhung version is even better. Faster and better at low volumes. But for now they were too expensive.
http://www.clofis.nl/nl/thiel/C220-T6_kompleet.pdf
With a closed cabinet they gave enough extra in the low-end. With a baffle even more.
http://www.clofis.nl/nl/thiel/C220-T6_kompleet.pdf
With a closed cabinet they gave enough extra in the low-end. With a baffle even more.
teflon bypass
Hi there
I'm still playing around with these speakers. Now I connected a Technics TH800 tweeter instead of the original ones. It seems to be a bit more sparkly.
What I also want to try is some other capacitors and bypassing some with teflon FT-1's. Can anyone advise me on which ones to bypass? High's, mid's, low's?
I also want to try Russian K40y and K75-10's.
Hi there
I'm still playing around with these speakers. Now I connected a Technics TH800 tweeter instead of the original ones. It seems to be a bit more sparkly.
What I also want to try is some other capacitors and bypassing some with teflon FT-1's. Can anyone advise me on which ones to bypass? High's, mid's, low's?
I also want to try Russian K40y and K75-10's.
hi,
Just joined in.
I had NS-1000M for 10 years
Right side woofer voice coil was rubbing on center magnet pole and when I played certain songs it was evident at low volume listening.
Took it to a speaker repair shop and they said it needed reconing, new
voice coil, new rubber surround and new spider as well.
Also they suggested to do the same to the left woofer too, to prevent difference in sound. total cost about US$ 40.00
Since the left speaker was still good and I did not want to change the original voice coil , I did not go for it.
I had some previous knowledge of speaker reconing and audio DIY, I thought
to do the repair myself.
Last week had some time to spare, so made up my mind to solve the problem.
Took the woofer out, removed the top cap with solvent. Same with the outer edge of the surround and the spider.
desoldered the wiskers and had the cone with the attached voice coil in my hands.
saw signs of scratching of lacqer paint on the voice coil outer surfaces and signs of rubbing of the voice coil former in inside magnet pole.
These were not serious and could be solved by centering the voice coil and re gluing the whole cone assembly.
placed a slit Carlsburg Beer (aluminium) can as a spacer between the voice coil former and the center pole magnet and pasted using Evostick Rubber Adhesive.
Left a couple of days to dry.
re fitted the hole thing (reverse process).
tested.
Excellent results with perfect match with the Left side speaker which was untouched.
My message to all who have a similar problems with the NS-1000M woofer is,
1.This woofer has a square copper wire wound voice coil (about 100 turns) wound on a very thin former and glued together to hold in one piece, which gives the speaker its quality.try to retain it at any cost. new voice coil with round wire cannot get as many turns as needed.
2. the cardboard cone with cloth surround is also original and try not to change it.
The repair cost me about US$ 1.00 for the tube of adhesive, but the original
quality was retained as much as possible.
My only sad thing is that I could not take photos during these stages of repair to post here as I had not discovered your forum thread before today.
Any way reading posts by your member morksbeanbag has given me a lot of insight to tweeking the crossover and building a speaker stand.
(I read somewhere that a solid cement and sand speaker stand was the best for the NS 1000M 's.)
When I do that I will give you some photos and a lot of stuff in the future.
Sri.
Just joined in.
I had NS-1000M for 10 years
Right side woofer voice coil was rubbing on center magnet pole and when I played certain songs it was evident at low volume listening.
Took it to a speaker repair shop and they said it needed reconing, new
voice coil, new rubber surround and new spider as well.
Also they suggested to do the same to the left woofer too, to prevent difference in sound. total cost about US$ 40.00
Since the left speaker was still good and I did not want to change the original voice coil , I did not go for it.
I had some previous knowledge of speaker reconing and audio DIY, I thought
to do the repair myself.
Last week had some time to spare, so made up my mind to solve the problem.
Took the woofer out, removed the top cap with solvent. Same with the outer edge of the surround and the spider.
desoldered the wiskers and had the cone with the attached voice coil in my hands.
saw signs of scratching of lacqer paint on the voice coil outer surfaces and signs of rubbing of the voice coil former in inside magnet pole.
These were not serious and could be solved by centering the voice coil and re gluing the whole cone assembly.
placed a slit Carlsburg Beer (aluminium) can as a spacer between the voice coil former and the center pole magnet and pasted using Evostick Rubber Adhesive.
Left a couple of days to dry.
re fitted the hole thing (reverse process).
tested.
Excellent results with perfect match with the Left side speaker which was untouched.
My message to all who have a similar problems with the NS-1000M woofer is,
1.This woofer has a square copper wire wound voice coil (about 100 turns) wound on a very thin former and glued together to hold in one piece, which gives the speaker its quality.try to retain it at any cost. new voice coil with round wire cannot get as many turns as needed.
2. the cardboard cone with cloth surround is also original and try not to change it.
The repair cost me about US$ 1.00 for the tube of adhesive, but the original
quality was retained as much as possible.
My only sad thing is that I could not take photos during these stages of repair to post here as I had not discovered your forum thread before today.
Any way reading posts by your member morksbeanbag has given me a lot of insight to tweeking the crossover and building a speaker stand.
(I read somewhere that a solid cement and sand speaker stand was the best for the NS 1000M 's.)
When I do that I will give you some photos and a lot of stuff in the future.
Sri.
you are right about what you're hearing now is much loader than before...i only tweaked my 6,8uf electrolytics that supply tweeters with 4,4 wima mkp and audible difference is almost twice louder...now i have to decrease treble tone level at amplifier...
I would just say tweak elements. Its an upgrade to one person's liking in a couple of listening spaces and setups for the time being. It has to go through many systems for the fans to agree its a popular upgrade. Its an all time classic well circulated speaker, can't be so easily decided for crossover redesign beyond parts quality IMHO. I would even keep the original crossover intact so to refit in case of selling it in the future, not to lose market value.