It’s modeled at 1/2” or 12mm, but I could of course go thinner!
Thanks for the reminder for foam lining
I have the outline of how I simulated the K15 in Akabak here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/karlson.213594/post-3528706
I approximated the aperture as a series of different width waveguides radiators following aperture function. The passages internally are waveguides.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/karlson.213594/post-3528706
I approximated the aperture as a series of different width waveguides radiators following aperture function. The passages internally are waveguides.
Hi xrk971
if You have a time maybe to check with akabak script for 18in driver.
There was a Gaus K-18 cabinet 5181 dimensions in the JPG,
with
.
Cetec / Gauss 18"
Model #4882SX
8 ohm.
Patent no. 225,069.
Doped suspension surround.
Field-serviceable voice coils.
Develeoped by Bart Bingham and Ed May
Vas = 430 liters
Qts = 0.2416
Qes = 0.27
Qms = 2.3
Fs = 33 Hz
xmax = 1 mm
Re = 6.7 ohms nominal
L = 1 mH
BL = 23.49 Tm
Z = 8 ohms dynamic, nominal
Mms = 107.24 grams
SD = 0.119 m^2
Weight = 11.24 kg each (25 lbs)
Approximate minumum power for nominal EQ accuracy = 20 watts rms.
Max Power [W]; Maximum input power = 400 watts rms, 800 watts program, 1600 watts peak.
.
if You have a time maybe to check with akabak script for 18in driver.
There was a Gaus K-18 cabinet 5181 dimensions in the JPG,
with
.
Cetec / Gauss 18"
Model #4882SX
8 ohm.
Patent no. 225,069.
Doped suspension surround.
Field-serviceable voice coils.
Develeoped by Bart Bingham and Ed May
Vas = 430 liters
Qts = 0.2416
Qes = 0.27
Qms = 2.3
Fs = 33 Hz
xmax = 1 mm
Re = 6.7 ohms nominal
L = 1 mH
BL = 23.49 Tm
Z = 8 ohms dynamic, nominal
Mms = 107.24 grams
SD = 0.119 m^2
Weight = 11.24 kg each (25 lbs)
Approximate minumum power for nominal EQ accuracy = 20 watts rms.
Max Power [W]; Maximum input power = 400 watts rms, 800 watts program, 1600 watts peak.
.
Attachments
Hello, I would like to make a pair of XKi for the RS100-4. I read the thread but I have some doubts about the construction process.
You included some drawings on the K-aperture, but it is not clear to me how should I make it.
How wide should be the top aperture and the bottom be? I see you made an almost "exponential" cut to the aperture and some other people use a different, more "circular" shape. Does it make any difference or I can even use a linear shape if I want to?
Can I mount the speaker flush or it has to be mounted on top of the baffle? Usually this is made to reduce diffraction, but I have no idea if it matters when the speaker is tecnically inside the box.
How thick should the wood be? I'm worried that if I make the aperture too thick I will mess up the high frequency response. I have 1cm (3/8") MDF and 2cm (3/4") plywood but I can also buy 16mm (5/8").
Can I use polyfill for the big chamber and felt for the small chamber or do I have to use a specific type of deadener for it?
Excuse me for all these questions but I've never had any experience with such a weird design. Thank you!
You included some drawings on the K-aperture, but it is not clear to me how should I make it.
How wide should be the top aperture and the bottom be? I see you made an almost "exponential" cut to the aperture and some other people use a different, more "circular" shape. Does it make any difference or I can even use a linear shape if I want to?
Can I mount the speaker flush or it has to be mounted on top of the baffle? Usually this is made to reduce diffraction, but I have no idea if it matters when the speaker is tecnically inside the box.
How thick should the wood be? I'm worried that if I make the aperture too thick I will mess up the high frequency response. I have 1cm (3/8") MDF and 2cm (3/4") plywood but I can also buy 16mm (5/8").
Can I use polyfill for the big chamber and felt for the small chamber or do I have to use a specific type of deadener for it?
Excuse me for all these questions but I've never had any experience with such a weird design. Thank you!
I would not worry too much about the exact shape of the curve. I free handed it with about 3/8in slot at the top and the line is tangent there and expands in a fixed radius arc towards the corners. Try to swing the arc to intersect the driver surround.
Use melamine foam pads for damping. If using wood, you need damping in the front chamber as well as rear chamber.
Use melamine foam pads for damping. If using wood, you need damping in the front chamber as well as rear chamber.
Thank you. What about the wood thickness for the front plate? Do I have to avoid using thicker wood to avoid horn loading the speaker?
Also, is melamine the same material as the black "egg crate" style foam used for acoustic treatment or as the yellow pads used for doing the dishes? I've never heard of such material
Also, is melamine the same material as the black "egg crate" style foam used for acoustic treatment or as the yellow pads used for doing the dishes? I've never heard of such material
Melamine foam is same as magic eraser sponges. Nanostructures porous foam originally patented by BASF called Basotect professional sound abatement foam. Once patent expired, it’s available cheap. 100 pads for $7 postage paid. Use hot melt glue to install. Pads are fire retardant and rot proof. Use instead of eggcrate and they work better actually.
for example:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOFHy1e
Front use 1/4in to 3/16in. 1/2in is overkill. Line the inside of aperture with paper faced foam core.
for example:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOFHy1e
Front use 1/4in to 3/16in. 1/2in is overkill. Line the inside of aperture with paper faced foam core.
Could the Dayton "Epique" E150HE-44 be a good match for an XKi? Poor sensitivity but 200w power handing and massive 14mm X-max. Dual 4 ohm voice coil makes it trivial to apply lots of power with a class D amp. They claim smooth extension up to 4kHz.
I'm planning to buy some for a passive radiator build and will see how much useable HF extension it really has. If it seems like it could work for XKi I'd love an excuse to try more foam board construction. I put together mini karlsonators with Vifa TC9FD some years ago and found it both fun and rewarding.
Dayton Epique E150HE-44
Sd = 95cm2
Fs = 40Hz
Mms = 26.6g
Qms = 2.94
Qes = 0.45
Qts = 0.39
Re = 6.6ohm
BL = 9.8
Le = 1.6mH
Vas = 7.65L
Cms = 0.6mm/N
Xmax = 14.7mm
Pe = 200W
SPL = 83.3dB/W
I'm planning to buy some for a passive radiator build and will see how much useable HF extension it really has. If it seems like it could work for XKi I'd love an excuse to try more foam board construction. I put together mini karlsonators with Vifa TC9FD some years ago and found it both fun and rewarding.
Dayton Epique E150HE-44
Sd = 95cm2
Fs = 40Hz
Mms = 26.6g
Qms = 2.94
Qes = 0.45
Qts = 0.39
Re = 6.6ohm
BL = 9.8
Le = 1.6mH
Vas = 7.65L
Cms = 0.6mm/N
Xmax = 14.7mm
Pe = 200W
SPL = 83.3dB/W
Hi X, there are two w5-2143 speakers, there is a white paper cone, and an SAF speaker.
Oh I saw the W5-2143, the W5-1611SAF is different cone with pointed aluminum plug.
I was going to ask which do you recommend for your mini Xki.
Finding the melamine foam in 10x6x2 CM, for the back inside of Xki.
Is it worth while to rip out the wool type padding that is in there
and replace with Melamine foam?
Another question with a speaker that already has acoustic stuffing inside of it.
Do I remove all the fill and replace with Melamine foam blocks?
Or, just line the inside walls with Melamine foam then restuff
the speaker with the acoustic stuffing?
One final question. I have some Klipsch Cornwalls that I modded.
I epoxied the rear inside panel with 16 ga. steel. I cut out space
for the horns so they wouldn't be as close to the steel. Then I drilled
the steel to re-staple the acoustic paper that Klipsch used inside the
cabinet.
The horns were coated with many passes of automobile under carriage coating.
You got me thinking about the melamine foam pads. Do you think there would
be a sonic benefit to removing all the Klipsch acoustic paper and gluing the melamine
foam pads throughout the inside of the speaker cabinet?
or
1. Inside the rear panel.
2. Inside the front panel where the 2 horns and bass driver are mounted.
3. Inside on both sides of the speaker box but not below the vent (across the bottom).
The steel to the back was installed to prevent back waves. Sound moving through
two different substances (three including epoxy) would not likely come back to the front again.
The forth being the reinstalled acoustic paper on top of the steel.
Thoughts?
Oh I saw the W5-2143, the W5-1611SAF is different cone with pointed aluminum plug.
I was going to ask which do you recommend for your mini Xki.
Finding the melamine foam in 10x6x2 CM, for the back inside of Xki.
Is it worth while to rip out the wool type padding that is in there
and replace with Melamine foam?
Another question with a speaker that already has acoustic stuffing inside of it.
Do I remove all the fill and replace with Melamine foam blocks?
Or, just line the inside walls with Melamine foam then restuff
the speaker with the acoustic stuffing?
One final question. I have some Klipsch Cornwalls that I modded.
I epoxied the rear inside panel with 16 ga. steel. I cut out space
for the horns so they wouldn't be as close to the steel. Then I drilled
the steel to re-staple the acoustic paper that Klipsch used inside the
cabinet.
The horns were coated with many passes of automobile under carriage coating.
You got me thinking about the melamine foam pads. Do you think there would
be a sonic benefit to removing all the Klipsch acoustic paper and gluing the melamine
foam pads throughout the inside of the speaker cabinet?
or
1. Inside the rear panel.
2. Inside the front panel where the 2 horns and bass driver are mounted.
3. Inside on both sides of the speaker box but not below the vent (across the bottom).
The steel to the back was installed to prevent back waves. Sound moving through
two different substances (three including epoxy) would not likely come back to the front again.
The forth being the reinstalled acoustic paper on top of the steel.
Thoughts?
This can work - just tune the vent length and area as of it were a reflex box.
Recently I picked up an all purpose amp board that has multiple inputs and bluetooth. Specifically it is an XINYI XY-C50L which uses a Chinese clone of a TPA-3116 chip. Sometimes I need to hear music from someone's phone. I connected my pair of Xkiclops, which had been in storage for a while, and they were a nice match for this $7 amp. The speakers are on the floor near a corner, behind a chair. But they do the job. Anyway, for convenience I've been using it downstairs and feeding it songs from an upstairs desktop which has ALL my music; for when I'm too lazy to fire up the BIG system. Yesterday my desktop couldn't locate the bluetooth device (amp) so I played music from my phone. It was a much lower signal and I had to crank the amp to max to get a satisfying sound. then today the desktop re-recognized the amp while I was upstairs. So I hit play and there was this ENORMOUS sound filling the house. I let it go for 10 or 15 minutes before heading downstairs to check on my gear and OMG it was louder than I've listened to anything in years. And it was clean and had authority. The bass was killer (5" Vifa woofers). Needless to say I turned it down a bit, but what a surprise. The XKi is really something to scratch ur head about and marvel.
Attachments
Nice! I have a thread on a similar amp. It’s an amazing amount of tech for $5 to $7.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/coffee-money-xy-aph15-15w-bt-5-0-amp.383499/
I called it the Coffee Money Amp.
The XKi with a 5in Tang Band W5-2143 can indeed rock the house. With a 50w amp it can deliver some nice bass.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/coffee-money-xy-aph15-15w-bt-5-0-amp.383499/
I called it the Coffee Money Amp.
The XKi with a 5in Tang Band W5-2143 can indeed rock the house. With a 50w amp it can deliver some nice bass.