Evidently , Eric is amp coupling cap's version of Tony Gee. Lots of anecdotal comments following non-blind testing. As with Tony Gee, the more expensive ones do tend to rate better. Is that real or the result of expectations on the part of the rater?
Comments and opinions are taken as such , same as blind testing from untrained individuals and Paid students who dont really give a damn , all taken with a grain of salt . Best to evaluate the persons involved and from this personal evaluation determine if the results are inline or not ..
Personally I'm not going to spend 200bucks on one cap , so I will never know ...
Just saying ...
Confession Alert !
I started reading this thread at lunchtime and ran out of time... Mine, is the quickest of questions (in theory)
Just acquired a rather tasty, much loved and upgraded set of 105/3 Kef Reference speakers. They are currently in Dry Dock in my garage getting fettled for a re-foam.. all is well.
However, when I looked at the crossover, I nearly melted. The "less is more" engineer / purist in me, informs that all that "stuff" cannot be good for dynamics and music, but as perhaps some of you know, those 105/3's sure sound good when on song.
So, whilst I'm performing open heart surgery, I'm looking at that x/over thinking:- "I wonder if I should upgrade the components"
Enter stage left:- the rats nest and the point of my post.
1) Waste of time.. KEF "got it right" - law of diminishing returns etc..
2) Can be of value.. but change only a few... and they are X Y Z
3) Bypass ALL the electrolytics - if so.. what value ?
As you may recall, the Reference is matched to the units so I'm (sort of ) thinking that even if I added small bypass caps, provided I do it on both L & R channels, I'm safe
Safe assumption or should I find another tree to bark up ??
Sorry if this has been asked already and sorry for not having longer lunch breaks
THANKS for all your help
I started reading this thread at lunchtime and ran out of time... Mine, is the quickest of questions (in theory)
Just acquired a rather tasty, much loved and upgraded set of 105/3 Kef Reference speakers. They are currently in Dry Dock in my garage getting fettled for a re-foam.. all is well.
However, when I looked at the crossover, I nearly melted. The "less is more" engineer / purist in me, informs that all that "stuff" cannot be good for dynamics and music, but as perhaps some of you know, those 105/3's sure sound good when on song.
So, whilst I'm performing open heart surgery, I'm looking at that x/over thinking:- "I wonder if I should upgrade the components"
Enter stage left:- the rats nest and the point of my post.
1) Waste of time.. KEF "got it right" - law of diminishing returns etc..
2) Can be of value.. but change only a few... and they are X Y Z
3) Bypass ALL the electrolytics - if so.. what value ?
As you may recall, the Reference is matched to the units so I'm (sort of ) thinking that even if I added small bypass caps, provided I do it on both L & R channels, I'm safe
Safe assumption or should I find another tree to bark up ??
Sorry if this has been asked already and sorry for not having longer lunch breaks
THANKS for all your help
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I suggest you keep the film caps you have and, if you can, test the lytics for uF and ESR values. You'll have to unsolder one end to get a proper measurement. If, after testing a few lytics you find uF still within tolerance and ESR is running in the 1/4 to 1/2 ohm range, you shouldn't have to change anything. You may want to consider just changing out the lytics and be done with it - assuming you can find new, audio-grade types with the same uF label values which is not always the case. Then you won't have to worry about the lytics growing old for another 15-20 yrs.
Bypassing is a debatable subject. The purist EE's who post on the net about bypassing say it doesn't make a significant difference.
Bypassing is a debatable subject. The purist EE's who post on the net about bypassing say it doesn't make a significant difference.
Yes the KEF setup is a convoluted thing.
But beyond a 'shot inna dark' diy redesign Don't 'improve' the circuit.
As above Swap out the Electrolytics without a second thought. Electros are typically fitted in non critical positions so exact matching need is dubious
Replace them, IF only, because they are Old and have likely deteriorated
Don't bypass in an Xover though.
But beyond a 'shot inna dark' diy redesign
Don't 'improve' the circuit.As above Swap out the Electrolytics without a second thought. Electros are typically fitted in non critical positions so exact matching need is dubious
Replace them, IF only, because they are Old and have likely deteriorated
Don't bypass in an Xover though.
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Get good ones for audio use in speaker crossovers. They WILL be non-pilar, bi-directional, bi-polar in construction. Don't go by shape. Specify either of the words I used above. Bennic is a very good brand.
Also specify <=5% dissipation factor which is st'd for the Bennics.
The Daytons look like Bennic's ....
The Daytons are rebranded Bennics, that is why.
Later,
Wolf
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