Why MUR860? Why not bridge module?

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Eva,

Thank you so much for pointing me to the above thread. It made my morning. A very good read indeed.

I had a very dear friend who passed away, much too young, 20 years ago. He was the most gifted electronic systems debugger I ever encountered. He left me with the following wisdom:

--- You know // In this business you are never really in trouble unless you can't think of anything else to measure. ---

John Kochan, Sr. Eng., Utica, NY, circa 1984
 
I just wired a MUR815 rectifier circuit with cap + resistor snubbers.
Why? because I had the parts, and am interested in the subject.

I just took a stab at appropiate values.
Are they wrong? Probably.
Will it blow up, convince my circuit to misbehave? Doubt it.
Will I think it sounds better? Yes - because it's "complicated" and the parts are expensive.
Is it bad that I could be imagining an improvement? No - why would it be a bad thing if I am enjoying something I built?
Would I rather know if it is a verifiable improvement? Certainly.

I saved and read the document mentioned above:
http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf
I understood about 20% of it.
One year ago I would have understood 3% of it.

I have enjoyed reading this thread and other links.
Audible or not, I am sure snubbers should be calculated correctly to the intended circuit and associated components, in order to accomplish.......in order to serve some purpose. :bullseye:
Many "people" post schematics that employ fast diodes, and then mention....the snubbers I used are XXXnf. (sometimes saying there is a range that can be used).

As a bedroom hobbyist, weekly time is not plentyful, and test equiptment is sparse (but growing!! :Pinoc: ).
Plowing through that Hagtech article is possible for me, and the math is a hurdle I can overcome (yikes!)....I just need more time. At 3 hours a night, a week and a pound of coffee might do it.
And it is threads like this will help me decide if I'm up for some snubbber crunching...if it is worth it.....and bring results.
You are not wasting your time debating eachother.

But it is tempting to look for a ready-made answer, when calculating snubbers.
Hmmmm...a snubber calculator?

After all, how will I know if a fast snubbered rectifier sounds better if I cannot build one correctly, and listen for myself? Shall us hobbists take the word of the enlightened few? And what if the few are on opposite sides of the debate table ?
My ears should be the scale-tilter. No?

=RR=
 
redrabbit:

If I was you, I would get an oscilloscope and I would have some fun tuning the snubber R and C values to achieve as smooth diode switching as possible. I learnt snubbers that way.

BTW: Sometimes people just doesn't want to learn...
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Do diodes sound different? Sure they do. What's best? It is circuit dependent.

In many modern power supplies -- where we have transformer>diodes>caps, there is very little real power supply isolation. This scheme creates a 1st order filter and a whole lot of garbage gets thru.

If you look at a tube amp supply -- or a typical Pass supply you will see at least a CRC -- 2nd order. CLC, 3rd order... (some generalization here as the inductance in real caps, and the capacitance in real chokes can get you in trouble...

Much of the problem with diodes is that a cap input supply has a short conduction cycle, and when the cap is full you get a big reverse spike. A soft recovery diode should help (a vacuum tube rectifier being one of the best in this regard), as should a snubber ... the best solution (ignoring efficiency, since you need to draw suffiicent current to keep the magnetic field from collapsing) is a choke input filter.

dave

PS: i recall that Nelson commented on this... for the longest time he was in the "the diodes in the bridge don't make a difference" to changing to something more exotic sometime after Peter's posts on the subject because his experiments showed that they sounded better -- just goes to show it is important to keep an open mind. In audio, there are a whole lot more things that we don't know than we do know. (a corallary to that is that there are a lot more things we haven't figured out how to, or even know to, measure than we do measure).
 

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Susumu Sakuma uses cheap electrolytics and metal film resistors.

The way I see it, there can only be two reasons to use boutique caps and whatnot.

1. You think you are a better audio designer than Sakuma and thus need better components.

2. You think you are a mediocre audio designer who need all the help you can get in order to keep up with those better than you.
 
Audionote uses $3000 silver foil and oil capacitors and expensive tantalum film resistors.

The way I see it, there can only be two reasons to use generic caps and whatnot.

1. You think you are a better audio designer than Audionote's and thus don't need better components.

2. You think you are the world's best audio designer who doesn't need any help in order to better those you think lesser than you.


Or maybe we can just call a moratorium on the useless and unproductive ad hominems.
 
rdf:

Or 3. You think that it's possible to design excellent amplifiers that are tolerant of components that are perfectly competent for the task but not audiophile jewelry. Your design aims do not include impressing Stereophile or whomever.

I suspect there's a 4, 5, and 6, too, it's just that I'm a number 3 and didn't want to be shouldered out of all the fun.
 
You're right. Too many factors. Too many components. After all, we know that Polypropylene and Teflon caps do some things better than all other materials and paper caps have other qualities. And we know that silver has lower resistance than copper. Heck, Klangfilm used silver. Albeit in their ceramic caps. And I bet it was for reliability and not sound.

Still I find it presumptuous to use botique components. I do not count the MUR860 as a boutique component. Nor do I question that it can make a difference. I'm a vinyl junkie. I'm 100 pct subjectivist, 0 pct objectivist. I'm a subject, not an object. Females are object.
 
When I posted a previous link, I had those two post specifically in mind; read it and maybe you'll learn something:

jcarr said:
Here in Japan, the sonic changes due to different rectifiers have been noted and utilized for more than 20 years. If anything, it was the manufacturers like Fidelix, Pioneer, Yamaha etc that led the way, with the DIY community following, in many cases by using parts that were developed for or first featured in commercial amplifiers. (This is a similar situation to what has happened with audio-grade capacitors and resistors.)

In my experience, sonic differences are caused not only by the category of rectifier diode, but the manufacturer as well. Undoubtedly, HERs, FRDs, Schottkys etc. sound different, but a Schottky from IRF will also sound different from one by GI, Fuji, et al. In fact, I find that an FRD and a Schottky by IRF may sound sonically closer to each other than a Schottky by IRF and another Schottky by Fuji will.

My personal opinion is that this has something to do with the individual semiconductor processes used.

regards, jonathan carr


jcarr said:
In audio I believe that there is a place for theory and measurements as well as subjective experience. But I want to think for myself, do things for myself, and experience things for myself. And I prefer people who likewise have a willingness to think, act, and experience for themselves. Because without this, how is it possible to contribute anything unique?

I find that careful observation combined with a certain amount of educated guesswork can often be beneficial, but more frequently than not (especially on the Internet, it would seem), hearsay merely spreads mis-information around.

>And even if their perceived results do not agree with my own.<

Yes. And I don't think that agree vs. disagree is even all that different, as long as the reasons are based on direct personal experience. And in many cases, disagree is more important, because you are more likely to learn something new, as a result of receiving input that lies outside of your own experiences.

In my own audio work, I believe in combining theory, measurements and subjective listening in a mutually interactive feedback loop.

>Have you reached any conclusions that you are happy to share regarding any general preferences over diodes, and who makes the most desirable ones?<

Different types of topologies measure differently and have their distinct sound. Likewise with circuit and chassis constructions, and active and passive components. There are many variables that the individual audio designer is free to choose from, dictacted only by personal believe and preference. And the interactions arising from all of these variables can be complex, and at times, somewhat unpredictable.

Hence, questions like "who makes the most desirable parts" are not useful UNLESS you are building the same types of circuits that I do. And even among my own circuits, each circuit has a "sound of its own", and therefore has unique requirements for what should be done to it to bring it range of something that "sounds good" or is "sonically neutral" - both of which are again subjective judgements.

I think that a more useful question is not "what is best", but "what does this sound like", and "when and how is it appropriate to use this".

When we listen to different passive or active components that may happen to measure similarly, it isn't like we are trying to establish what the best-tasting flavor is. The feeling is closer to trying to establish whether what we have is tarragon, coriander, rosemary, dill, ginger, or wasabi. You would use ginger because you tasted a dish and felt that the use of ginger would benefit the flavor and make it taste good to you, but you wouldn't use ginger mindlessly on any and all dishes (at least I hope you wouldn't). On top of that, ginger may taste some differently depending on their place of origin. Ginger root from China tastes rather stronger than the stuff that is grown in Japan, and the smell is different, too.

Perhaps I will build a circuit with some types of rectifiers, listen to it, and establish if it lacks anything or has too much of something. Based on that experience, I may leave the original rectifier in place, or choose a completely different one. If I change the type, I will listen again and see if my analysis and guess were right. I am very rarely off when it comes to the basic direction that I want the sound to go in, but sometimes I may decide that I didn't go too far, or perhaps overshot my target. You get better with practice...

I suppose that I end up choosing Nippon Inter http://www.niec.co.jp/ diodes more frequently than other makes, but I also use IRF, GI, Fuji, Toshiba, Hitachi, Unison, Sanken Shinden, and others. And I may further choose Schottkys, FRDs, HERs, GaAs, and whatnot. As I indicated earlier, I may start out with something arbitrary, but I really don't know what I will end up until I go through a complete listening cycle.

Sorry that I cannot provide an answer that is succinct and neatly packaged, but that's life for you...

regards, jonathan carr

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=102326#post102326
 
SY said:
rdf:

Or 3. You think that it's possible to design excellent amplifiers that are tolerant of components that are perfectly competent for the task but not audiophile jewelry. Your design aims do not include impressing Stereophile or whomever.

I suspect there's a 4, 5, and 6, too, it's just that I'm a number 3 and didn't want to be shouldered out of all the fun.


We are getting a little OT here -- but I note the recent Stereophile review of a $3,800 line conditioner in which the reviewer indicated that he had taken metallurgy in college and grad school and saw no basis for the claim that cryogenic treatment of the power conditioner would have any effect, same reviewer went on to wax erotic on the device's benefit -- yes Hubbell connectors are nice, that's why hospitals use them.
 
SY said:
Or 3. You think that it's possible to design excellent amplifiers that are tolerant of components that are perfectly competent for the task but not audiophile jewelry. Your design aims do not include impressing Stereophile or whomever.

It all depends on the definitions of excellence, tolerance, and task of course but generally yes. I also feel an excellent amp can be further improved with careful part selection.

Exclusively classifying parts selection as 'audiophile jewlery' places way too much weight in the social aspect (and I only buy Stereophile for the pictures.) Some parts I currently prefer - PRP resistors and Russian silver mica for coupling - are relatively cheap and have all the boutique status of MC Hammer pants. Arriving at those preferences was a painful process. I absolutely detest parts cooking and was dismayed at the difference, for example, between the stock Elna coupling cap in a Benchmark DAC 1 and Black Gates. It's not anything I want. In my perfect world RatShack would carry everything needed to build the best amplifier of which I'm capable but experience tells me it just isn't so.

To be clear though, topology and construction come first. Part selection is just one element. $3000 caps in a poor circuit makes a poor $3100 amp.
 
When I read this Forum, I don't ask anybody for explanation and I don't demand a proof.

I just choose what makes sense to me and if I have enough time, I'll check it out in my own audio system: if it works or indeed makes a difference.

Because I want to "think for myself, do things for myself, and experience things for myself".

After all, this is the diyAudio Forum - projects by the fanatics for the fanatics, and not a scientific discussion board, although it seems like many forgot about it already....

And although I may appreciate posts from Eva or out new member sherelec, I certainly don't appreciate comments like "subjetivists are far too lazy..." or "sometimes people just doesn't want to learn..." or one "guru" told another "guru" ;)
 
SY said:
I swear, just this one question and I'll stop helping the thread drift: what the heck is a PRP resistor?


Brand name for the metal film carried by Parts Connexion and Michael Percy. Replaces the Holco line. Universally slagged on the Asylum as too 'clean', too 'neutral' and not enough 'life'. ~40 cents a pop, I prefer them to $4 Mills.
 
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