Nice. You can actually cut woofer driver holes with that one!Mine's bigger
It was first time I used a hole saw in BB plywood. It cuts faster than you think. There is an optimum speed and pressure so it cuts without becoming a friction fire starter project. It was smoldering the first time I did it. Not enough pressure so it just smokes the wood.
I would never use it for driver holes for that reason--it doesn't feel safe at all. Once it spins up it's got a lot of momentum, and you can feel it jerking your wrist even without cutting anything. But I need to cut an 8" opening for an exhaust fan in our greenhouse, and that hole saw seemed liked the only option. I've got to cut through the log siding from the inside of the greenhouse, and then cut through the tongue and groove paneling from the outside. On a ladder, no less
I cleaned off the saw with some sandpaper and it cut the second hole just fine. That tar makes a mess though but too much of a pain to peel it off.Once the teeth get jammed up with Noico tar, No more cutting for you.
I have to marvel at how clean and straight the hole was though. Compared to a jigsaw or a router, this was much much easier and less messy.
I just revised the XO to avoid the low impedance minimum on the tweeter. Lowest impedance is now 5ohms and it actually sounds better because the amp is less stressed.
Measured XO response:
Measured Phase is smooth and linear through 950Hz XO point:
Measured Impedance with DATS shows 5ohms minimum:
I reduced the size of the high pass cap and increased the inductor value to achieve this.
Measured XO response:
Measured Phase is smooth and linear through 950Hz XO point:
Measured Impedance with DATS shows 5ohms minimum:
I reduced the size of the high pass cap and increased the inductor value to achieve this.
Bunch of stuff around my work tables:
I thought I had balanced cables around that I used with the Fostex monitors. Can't find them, so I am now thinking of ways to make some Star Quad cables, like in making the Star Quad in the lab itself...
Added to my plate a lot of Sound Synthesis work on Kurzweil, which is going very well so far.
And of course, there must be some work around LLMs too.
- 2 JBL speakers, 1 woofer burnt. Tempted to take a titanium laminate tweeter and test it with the Fostex bi-amped monitor amplifier as one of the Monitors has a damaged tweeter.
- A very old Nikko 750 amplifier with large pops on output - most probably needs PSU Capacitor replacement.
- An old Akai CD/DVD player with integrated Amplifier and Headphone Amplifier
- An old MOTU 828 Firewire MIDI + AUDIO rack. Looked inside as there was some rattling, fortunately just a piece of plastic, and I don't know where that belongs. Linear PSU inside - very good.
- A Kurzweil synthesizer rescued from a bad, dark and damp place. Rattling inside turned out to be a screw moving around. That's a good way to zap boards... This thing was dusty and rusty and there was even a lot of mold on the fan, mold!
- A set of microprocessor boards, including one I had found for audio development. Might be a good time to get back into it
- Raw PSU Experiments
- Regulator Experiments
- Tube Preamp Experiments
- Various secret Electricity Experiments
I thought I had balanced cables around that I used with the Fostex monitors. Can't find them, so I am now thinking of ways to make some Star Quad cables, like in making the Star Quad in the lab itself...
Added to my plate a lot of Sound Synthesis work on Kurzweil, which is going very well so far.
And of course, there must be some work around LLMs too.
Cutting a vent hole through double floor joists was a similar experience.I would never use it for driver holes for that reason--it doesn't feel safe at all. Once it spins up it's got a lot of momentum, and you can feel it jerking your wrist even without cutting anything. But I need to cut an 8" opening for an exhaust fan in our greenhouse, and that hole saw seemed liked the only option. I've got to cut through the log siding from the inside of the greenhouse, and then cut through the tongue and groove paneling from the outside. On a ladder, no less
Actually, the lightweight Ryobi 1/2" drill did OK going from the inside, through the foam insulation and sheathing and through the log siding. But I couldn't use the hole saw on the tongue and groove paneling because the saw vibrated so much that it opened up the centering hole in the soft pine, and the hole saw just wandered. But I finished off the inside opening with a jig saw and all is well. We've got the exhaust fan running full time because those cannabis plants my wife planted stink up the house . We're not users, but she wanted to try growing some of the CBD variety when they became legal in MD last year.
Next up is the sound system. I just received the boards for a stereo 3-way ADAU1466 design that will use the I2S input on the Sure TAS5756 boards. I'll post pictures here as this project evolves.
. We're not users, but she wanted to try growing some of the CBD variety when they became legal in MD last year.Next up is the sound system. I just received the boards for a stereo 3-way ADAU1466 design that will use the I2S input on the Sure TAS5756 boards. I'll post pictures here as this project evolves.
I agree with big hole saws being dangerous, I only use them if no other choice with a drill, I use a drill press when I can, far safer and easier. As for big industrial high torque drills, be very careful, I was using a 1" ships auger wiring up a house, hit a nail, sprained both wrists, knocked my off the ladder and broke the drill handle, ouch all around.
I can cut very fine big holes with a good router, straight cut plunge bit and good circle jig, have done up to 14" in 1" MDF just fine and not that hard to do.
I could of used a jig saw, I have a couple of great ones, I just wanted to try the big holes with the jig and 3HP router.
Rick
I can cut very fine big holes with a good router, straight cut plunge bit and good circle jig, have done up to 14" in 1" MDF just fine and not that hard to do.
I could of used a jig saw, I have a couple of great ones, I just wanted to try the big holes with the jig and 3HP router.
Rick
On my bench also - trying a balanced design starting with a LTP and current source. Twice the components, twice the fun!
Misplaced smiley; should be on the right side ;')
My "big" Makita - with the missing side handle - has hurt me also. They dont stop when they hit something in there and the torque reaction just transfers to your hand, holding that little stubby handle.
I cut the 15" and 18" holes in my tombstone OBs using a router and circle jig I made myself. Two passes, one on each side of the 1.25" MDF table top to deeply score the circle, then chased the clean edge with a jig saw to finally cut-out the piece. Such a long, noisy operation...dust everywhere; pretty sure I was running the vacuum simultaneously with the router.
Last year I used several sizes from 1" up to 4.5" when putting in a door, installing an on demand water heater, plumbing vent holes in new metal roof, vents from section to section in roof, etc...I drilled a lot of holes it seems but also used at least 1,500 screws of various types and lengths. I love doing this stuff
Worse mess I ever made was using a rotozip cutting out a plaster wall for new window opening, I had ear plugs, face sheild and mask on, heard a yell, tapped on shoulder, looked back, oh my, whole house filled with dust in the air, a lot of dust....oops! That was around 25 years ago, before I knew my wife, I have gotten in plenty enough trouble working on this place even when trying to be clean some things are seemingly impossible to do without making a mess.
Worse mess I ever made was using a rotozip cutting out a plaster wall for new window opening, I had ear plugs, face sheild and mask on, heard a yell, tapped on shoulder, looked back, oh my, whole house filled with dust in the air, a lot of dust....oops! That was around 25 years ago, before I knew my wife, I have gotten in plenty enough trouble working on this place even when trying to be clean some things are seemingly impossible to do without making a mess.