Hi, I know it's a very stupid newbie question, but I need to ask it! 
I want to know what do you use to seal your subwoofer enclosures.
I will build a 142.5 liters "Adire Audio Shiva" vented box this Christmas, and I was planning on using good wood glue and a bunch of 1.5 inches screws to tight together 3/4 inch plywood panels. I will drill a smaller hole before putting each screw.
Is that ok? Or the screws will weaken the enclosure? I don't want the plys separating like the Tempest guy in the other thread!!!
I want to know what do you use to seal your subwoofer enclosures.
I will build a 142.5 liters "Adire Audio Shiva" vented box this Christmas, and I was planning on using good wood glue and a bunch of 1.5 inches screws to tight together 3/4 inch plywood panels. I will drill a smaller hole before putting each screw.
Is that ok? Or the screws will weaken the enclosure? I don't want the plys separating like the Tempest guy in the other thread!!!
Use polyurethane base construction adhesive (in a caulking gun) or a polyurethane base wood glue (like Gorilla); they expand as they cure to fill all gaps. Get a countersink pilot bit for the holes, and use 1 5/8" drywall screws every six inches. Be careful with polyurethane adhesives, they ooze a lot. Ply separation usually occurs with cheap grade plywood that has insufficient plies and with failure to pre-drill pilot holes. With 3/4 inch plywood make sure there are no less than 7 plies.
Sounds fine to me.
I use ordinary Elmer's carpenter's wood glue, which though it does not expand as the others mentioned, is plenty strong enough. The screws will strengthen the enclosure, not weaken it, and also can hold the panels together as the glue dries, possibly negating the need for a bunch of bar clamps. I cover all internal seams heavily with acrylic latex caulking, sometimes with silicone, sometimes without, whichever is on sale. There are lots of good ways to build and seal a box! You won't have a problem with the plywood if you predrill and countersink the holes and get good quality plywood to begin with.
Aaron Gilbert
I use ordinary Elmer's carpenter's wood glue, which though it does not expand as the others mentioned, is plenty strong enough. The screws will strengthen the enclosure, not weaken it, and also can hold the panels together as the glue dries, possibly negating the need for a bunch of bar clamps. I cover all internal seams heavily with acrylic latex caulking, sometimes with silicone, sometimes without, whichever is on sale.
There are lots of good ways to build and seal a box! You won't have a problem with the plywood if you predrill and countersink the holes and get good quality plywood to begin with.Aaron Gilbert
Not sure if the reference to the "Tempest guy in the other thread" was directed at me, but if it was, the actual enclosure was not what was seperating (the plys were solid), I had glued (and only glued) an extra peice of wood framing around the enclosure to give it a framed look and that was what was seperating. The actual enclosure was mighty solid, and I used only wood glue and lots of screws. When I decided to ditch the vented enclosure and go sealed, I actually attempted to break the vented enclosure into peices by throwing if off of my second story fire escape (DO NOT TRY AT HOME). The box was barely injured by the fall, save the corner where it hit that was a little dented. Suffice it to say I needed to bring out the sawz-all to actually do the demolition.
Yes. If your cuts are clean and straight wood glue (Elmer's, Titebond) is much easier to work with and absolutely strong. Stronger than the wood itself. I like to avoid screws if possible because it's a pain trying to cover them up unless you're using veneer. Careful with silicon based sealant. The fumes from it have been known to cause problems with drivers unless it has cured for several days.
Silicone.
Tim,
I didn't mean silicone based sealant, rather acrylic latex with silicone, whole different animal. While it may be just as well to avoid any silicone whatsoever, I've found the acrylic latex with silicone to have no fumes by comparison (having used pure silicone in the past on fish tanks and other stuff). Still, I rarely get any caulk with silicone, because it's more expensive and sticky.
I do caulking before staining/painting, so the cabinets are always going to sit for several days without drivers anway, well past the normal cure time of silicone (24 hours). I know many DIYers like to put their drivers in the cabinets and listen before there is any paint or veneer or finish of any kind. If I did that they would never get finished...
Ditto on the strength of wood glue. I've had boxes in the past that simply could not be taken/broken apart without a saw or extreme physical abuse.
Aaron Gilbert
Tim,
I didn't mean silicone based sealant, rather acrylic latex with silicone, whole different animal. While it may be just as well to avoid any silicone whatsoever, I've found the acrylic latex with silicone to have no fumes by comparison (having used pure silicone in the past on fish tanks and other stuff). Still, I rarely get any caulk with silicone, because it's more expensive and sticky.
I do caulking before staining/painting, so the cabinets are always going to sit for several days without drivers anway, well past the normal cure time of silicone (24 hours). I know many DIYers like to put their drivers in the cabinets and listen before there is any paint or veneer or finish of any kind. If I did that they would never get finished...
Ditto on the strength of wood glue. I've had boxes in the past that simply could not be taken/broken apart without a saw or extreme physical abuse.
Aaron Gilbert
Thanks, I was going to do that, I didn't know it was called that way! English is my second language so I need to learn more specific terms!
So, Timn8ter, you think that glue would be enough to keep a 142.5 liters box rigid and inert?
If yes, I'll see if huge wood clamps are easily available...
I would also like to know what BillFitzmaurice thinks about using only glue!
I think I'm feeling better with the idea of a screw at every 6 inches along the sides and even screw the braces at every 6 inches to the enclosure.
So, Timn8ter, you think that glue would be enough to keep a 142.5 liters box rigid and inert?
If yes, I'll see if huge wood clamps are easily available...
I would also like to know what BillFitzmaurice thinks about using only glue!
I think I'm feeling better with the idea of a screw at every 6 inches along the sides and even screw the braces at every 6 inches to the enclosure.
The screws are there only to hold the panels together for the glue to dry. Once the glue is cured, it is much stronger than the wood itself. If you try to break it apart, it will not break at the glue joint.
For an extreme solution, guaranteed to stiffen and seal the enclosure, line the inside with fiberglass resin. It stinks and takes a while to cure in cold weather, but will make your enclosure insanely strong and stiff.
Dan
For an extreme solution, guaranteed to stiffen and seal the enclosure, line the inside with fiberglass resin. It stinks and takes a while to cure in cold weather, but will make your enclosure insanely strong and stiff.
Dan
I use wood glue inbetween the pieces, then when its dry I come back with a caulk gun and Liquid Nails and goop the whole thing on the inside on all the seams. Its pretty air tight 
Usually the normal Liquid Nails is on sale at Home Depot/Loewes for like $1.50-$2 per container, and one can usually do a pair of speakers.
Usually the normal Liquid Nails is on sale at Home Depot/Loewes for like $1.50-$2 per container, and one can usually do a pair of speakers.
If the pieces fit together tighly, I find I get actually get better results with carpenter's glue than with with liquid nails. I can see cracks in the liquid nails on some of my enclosures and I've had a seam come unglued before while I was working on the box (although that was sorta my fault). Maybe it's the brand I use. (Lepage - No more nails)
Now, whenever possible I use carpenter's glue.
Now, whenever possible I use carpenter's glue.
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