What did you last repair?

Nice rebuild.

latest repair was taking the climate control out of the 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis and replaced the "O" rings.

The air would not blow through the dash vent and was just coming out the defrost and floor vents. Repair shop wanted $900, but said it was discontinued through Mercury/Ford, and they couldn't fix it.
 
I put a pad in my Van morrison 8 track yesterday (Veedon fleece) .... The stands for the pads are there but no pad and it wasnt supporting as good as if a pad was there so I glued one on to the middle stand where the head plays the tape.... (Keeping the tape as close to the head as you can is good in cassettes and 8 tracks)
 
A Hilti concrete nail gun. Before that a C-Tek battery charger, before that a metal bandsaw, before that the plastic case of some kitchen appliance, before that a sun roof, before that a laser tissue therapy device, before that a car clutch, before that an embroidery machine, before that a 1970's car clock, before that a VW automatic transmission, before that... you get the drift. By the time I'm finished I reckon the world will be pretty much complete.
 
Replaced the main shut off valve, broken spicket, and capped leaky lines from old water heater. .:wrench::)
 

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Changed out yet still another switch in the shop. This is the 4th one I had fail just this summer. They were all Leviton 20A/277V spec grade units, put in when I built the shop in 2010. The highest load was 8 32 watt T8’s, and the one yesterday was running a 50VA control transformer (for the winch reversing relay). I expected better from these, but then again they did come from Home Depot.

They are junk.. not the same as the commercial product, spec grade or not. Try the Hospital grade of spec/Hosp for the supply house, actually just buy hubbell, they are much better.
 
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Hi Chris,
They weight about 80 pounds. No joke when it comes to moving them, but they aren't that bad. The Crown DC300 is an offense to clean music everywhere, the BGW sounds a lot better I'll rebuild a BGW750 for improved performance. Not a DC300, there's no point in that.

Hi Greg,
I actually really like rebuilding these along with massive upgrades in performance. The amplifier breaks into three sections. It's true that working on one is not trivial, and I see more damage from people trying than anything else. With a little care and attention these amplifiers sound amazing. Lot's of detail work and things that a camera won't show.

Workmanship is so bad out there that you should only buy one that is untouched. Then have a tech who really knows what these are all about rebuild it. I know of one tech that is proud of working for Superscope (the Canadian distributor for a time) and says he is an expert on these. I've had to rebuild amps that he has fiddled with. That means you need a tech with a long record of working on these and other equipment and has an excellent reputation.

It always breaks my heart seeing one that an idiot has been into. One came in for work and parts were literally falling off the PCB. I didn't repair that one, the customer was freaked out and left (he didn't like the lead time either). That amp really needed new driver cards, and he didn't like the sounds of that! Work done by hacks is so sad to see.

-Chris
 
My washing machine.
A Miele Novotronic W 149.
The motor driver IGBT was blown and an smd capacitor oxidozed.
 

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My last repair was yesterday.
I built up a daughter board for my USB scope with a 28 pin SSOP A2D on it.
It didn't work. Before I powered it up I checked for shorts between pins as I soldered it by hand. All the pins on the edge connector were correct.
So in desperation I tried re-soldering one side of the chip, still didn't work.
So I re-soldered the other side and it burst into life.
SMD fine scale is a pig to solder, enough solder to make a good contact but not so much things start to short out. I use copper braid to remove excess solder.
So either I removed to much solder or didn't get enough solder on there in the first place.