Repaired (sounds impressive) my Wife's 2011 Hyundai Sonata. Had a clicking sound when trying to start somewhat like a stuck starter solenoid but not quite the same tone yesterday morning so said I would look at it in the evening. Got to look this morning and battery was dead. She said the dashboard lit up all the lights and the hazard lights started blinking by themselves when she tried later yesterday. So I figured electronic control issue. Put battery on charge first of all. First thought was computer and sure enough Copper Sulphate on some connectors. This is caused by dissimilar metals in the male connectors on the computer and the female connector in the wiring loom connector. Cleaned up male end with a fiberglass brush and the female end with natural bristle brush and a wipe. Starts and runs again. Just need to find a touch of dielectric grease now and call it finished.
Attachments
BP1 - Timing belt was overdue replacement judging by the look of it as is Valve cover gasket. The belts should go I think ~50-60K miles between replacements. (Given my experience with Hyundai I would not be surprised if it failed prematurely). Not sure if it's an interference engine, but if it is, you got lucky. I would not touch another Hyundai again. The price is good and I think they look quite nice but that's about it... oh yes, gas mileage is good too but the quality of the materials is poor. Everything just falls apart / breaks and the cost of spare parts is high. My wife's car has just 29K miles now and I have already repaired the sun roof thrice (dealer repair), and cannot open it anymore. The headliner is falling down. Broken door pulls, failed alternator, defective rear disc caliper, three clock spring replacements, Broken shift linkage, Clear coat / paint long gone and the list goes on.
My mother had a Hyundai Stellar, 1985 I think. Like a tank, lasted forever. The only failures were the AC evaporator core and the drivers window motor after I can't remember how many years.
When the wife and I were shopping and I saw it I was like wow! Great looking and practical car. I was thinking it was a Toyota with a nice design.
Little did I know! I really expected Japanese car quality but ended up disappointed. Oh Well.....
What are your thoughts of the Hyundai?
My mother had a Hyundai Stellar, 1985 I think. Like a tank, lasted forever. The only failures were the AC evaporator core and the drivers window motor after I can't remember how many years.
When the wife and I were shopping and I saw it I was like wow! Great looking and practical car. I was thinking it was a Toyota with a nice design.
Little did I know! I really expected Japanese car quality but ended up disappointed. Oh Well.....
What are your thoughts of the Hyundai?
Wasn't my car. I did the repair for my pastor's kid.
I actually like the V6 Sonata with the manual transmission.
I actually had 1 of his church member's car in my garage this past weekend....Pontiac Torrent. I told her to get another car. The engine is knocking. It's blowing white smoke out the exhaust. It needs front wheel hub bearing assemblies.
Bought in 3 lcd displays and all were very good.
So bought in 3 more but these the picture quality was poor.
Sadly didnt notice in all were soldered in.
So looked online and it appears there is a contrast pot to set the screen.
So bought in 3 more and set the pots to give best display.
The pot was a bit touchy but managed in the end.
So bought in 3 more but these the picture quality was poor.
Sadly didnt notice in all were soldered in.
So looked online and it appears there is a contrast pot to set the screen.
So bought in 3 more and set the pots to give best display.
The pot was a bit touchy but managed in the end.
I had an old SD1 Rover V8 3.5 and the heater didnt work.
Managed to find another scrap vehicle with heater so swapped them over.
It was quite a big job stripping out the dash in both motors.
Wife has a 2009 Ford Mondeo. It was a fantastic car until around 110,000km was travelled, but then started to get rough. This sneaked up on us, and it got to the stage I didn't like driving it as it was annoying.
Well a month ago at 138,000km the noise and harshness became really bad so I looked at the engine mounts, and one of the hydraulic mounts had collapsed so that there was aluminium riding on aluminium. I changed the mount, an hour's work at leisurely pace, and the car has been totally transformed! It's like a new car again and Iove driving it. I was truly amazed at the effect of this one mount.
As an aside, I cut the mount open as I always wanted to see if they were really 'hydraulic' - sure enough, it was oil filled, with a valve arrangement and soft sponge in a part of the rubber casing, presumably to act as a damper. Expensive, but worth every dollar.
Well a month ago at 138,000km the noise and harshness became really bad so I looked at the engine mounts, and one of the hydraulic mounts had collapsed so that there was aluminium riding on aluminium. I changed the mount, an hour's work at leisurely pace, and the car has been totally transformed! It's like a new car again and Iove driving it. I was truly amazed at the effect of this one mount.
As an aside, I cut the mount open as I always wanted to see if they were really 'hydraulic' - sure enough, it was oil filled, with a valve arrangement and soft sponge in a part of the rubber casing, presumably to act as a damper. Expensive, but worth every dollar.
Your 2009 Ford Mondeo is the same as my wife's 2016 Volvo S60 T5 Premier and my son's 2018 Volvo S60 T5 Inscription AWD. Of course, I've done repairs to both cars.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_EUCD_platform
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_EUCD_platform
The travertine tiles in our downstairs underfloor heated place developed some problems.
We discovered one tile was rocking slightly. Others sounded hollow to the tap test.
Developer / installer skimped on the tile adhesive no doubt, so there are extensive voids under under the tiles.
Also probably rushed the drying out process🙄
I carefully drilled through the grout around the tile. 4mm masonry bit.
Sure enough down about 8mm there was free space.
This is still a good way of the underfloor heating pipes set in concrete below..
I drilled a few holes around the offending tiles.
Then using a Evostick Urethane expanding glue in a cartridge, I injected this into the holes.
It reacts with the moisture in the air and expands sticking to anything it touches😀 especially your hands!
The holes were then partially blocked with suitable sized wood screws, these allow some pressure relief but give resistance so the glue expands in the air gap below, not straight out of the hole.
Give it a few days and it's all set.
I've never popped a tile yet and some I did 3 years ago are still firmly in place and sound solid to the tap test.
I did a few more areas today... Hence thinking about it.
I also found that the drilling dust from the grout can be mixed with a waterproof PVA to make the perfect match filler for the holes.
Fortunately travertine tiles are mottled, Ditto the grout so the repair is invisible.
One tile was sounding so hole underneath, I drilled right in the middle of it, in a natural mottled part. Can't see that either.
This is done pretty quickly and certainly has saved us a lot of cracked tiles and more extensive repairs.
Our neighbours same build / developer also had problems but worse than us!
They got a handyman in who followed my procedure and used same adhesive and did practically the whole floor.
2 years later, still no problems.
We discovered one tile was rocking slightly. Others sounded hollow to the tap test.
Developer / installer skimped on the tile adhesive no doubt, so there are extensive voids under under the tiles.
Also probably rushed the drying out process🙄
I carefully drilled through the grout around the tile. 4mm masonry bit.
Sure enough down about 8mm there was free space.
This is still a good way of the underfloor heating pipes set in concrete below..
I drilled a few holes around the offending tiles.
Then using a Evostick Urethane expanding glue in a cartridge, I injected this into the holes.
It reacts with the moisture in the air and expands sticking to anything it touches😀 especially your hands!
The holes were then partially blocked with suitable sized wood screws, these allow some pressure relief but give resistance so the glue expands in the air gap below, not straight out of the hole.
Give it a few days and it's all set.
I've never popped a tile yet and some I did 3 years ago are still firmly in place and sound solid to the tap test.
I did a few more areas today... Hence thinking about it.
I also found that the drilling dust from the grout can be mixed with a waterproof PVA to make the perfect match filler for the holes.
Fortunately travertine tiles are mottled, Ditto the grout so the repair is invisible.
One tile was sounding so hole underneath, I drilled right in the middle of it, in a natural mottled part. Can't see that either.
This is done pretty quickly and certainly has saved us a lot of cracked tiles and more extensive repairs.
Our neighbours same build / developer also had problems but worse than us!
They got a handyman in who followed my procedure and used same adhesive and did practically the whole floor.
2 years later, still no problems.
Line boring a bucket link - semi-automatic welding of the bores, machined to just under finished size, precision honed for proper press fit of the bushing. Liquid nitrogen is used to install the bushings.
That must be an art form to know exactly what you're doing. If I did it, the big piece would crack when it warmed up after bushing install -