The Light is Back On
6L6, Wayne & Zen Mod
Diode and LED replaced in front of the 7915 regulator - red light now on and -16.88V on the output. Thanks for your help. I can now replace the diode and LED in front of the 7815 and get back to zeroing the DC offset of the LM833 !
6L6, Wayne & Zen Mod
Diode and LED replaced in front of the 7915 regulator - red light now on and -16.88V on the output. Thanks for your help. I can now replace the diode and LED in front of the 7815 and get back to zeroing the DC offset of the LM833 !
Jim, I still see "sold out" for the boards.
Any idea when this changeover from one fulfillment center to the other will be finalized and the boards will be available again?
Thanks.
Listening to the ACAs, I'm already getting the itch to build something else.
Also just built the Neurochrome THAT driver, and instead of the case (& psu) originally intended for that it would be neater to incorporate it into a pre-amp.
So I'd like to get my hands on a WHAMMY board, too.
Jim, I still see "sold out" for the boards.
Any idea when this changeover from one fulfillment center to the other will be finalized and the boards will be available again?
Thanks.
Jim alerted me to the minor rebellion going on here with people wondering where the WHAMMY boards were. Answer is "72 hours". We have plenty of stock, the software integration is lagging.
Yes.
- We created an order to move 80% of all stock from our old 3PL (3rd party logistics) to our new 3PL 1.5 months ago.
- The plan was that by July 31st we'd be shipping from the new one
- Old 3PL "locked" the stock, and then took 4 weeks to send it
- Remaining 20% of WHAMMYs that were at old 3PL have sold out, and we have plenty at new 3PL just sitting around now
- We do very tricky-dicky things behind the scenes to allow a unified purchasing experience of parts (from the US warehouse) and chassis (dropshipped from Hifi2000), all in your one cart with one shipping total. The prerequisite is that we need to be able to pull rates from an API (data feed) from our warehouse (old 3PL was built on APIs), with our own internal tables for Hifi2000, taking care of EU people who can't order directly, many complicated gotchas
- Whenever you try to be tricky, or do something that a system doesn't normally allow you to do, you invite yourself into a world of pain. I'm famous for doing this because in my books "anything should be possible". Shopify is brilliant, but incredibly limited and hard to add features to. It is a pandoras box of caveats.
- New 3PL has no API (they're old fashioned honest to goodness service focused, not technology focused), so they tried to open up their internal legacy systems to me. After several weeks of effort from them and $$$ on technology consultants, it still wasn't working, had to abandon that avenue
- No problem, I'll just speak to the carrier APIs directly
- Oh, DHL eCommerce doesn't have an API (they say they might have one in 60-90 days)
- Ok, back to directly coding a direct mix of live API requests directly with carriers and building out a whole static table based solution with DHL that can handle all the gotchas, then nicely mix back in with Hifi2000's products
- ETA: 72 hours
- Coding all day and night but nobody understands your pain
- MFW
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WHAMMY Contingency Parts
Let me first say ‘Thanks!’ to Wayne and Jim for all their contributions to make the WHAMMY circuit/boards available. I am a frequent lurker here but don’t normally have anything of value to contribute (and this post is no exception LOL!)
I have purchased the WHAMMY board and I am assembling my Mouser/Digikey orders. My intention for this project is to use it as both a Preamp (for my ACA under construction) and as a headphone amp.
I will be using an Amveco 62073 15V 35VA (naked) toroid since I have one in my parts bin. I figure the lower voltage will help minimize the heat generated, and since I live in Phoenix, AZ, less heat is always appreciated!
I have read everything posted that is related to this project (at least twice). Because of the flexibility of the design, it seems there is some latitude for the builder, in terms of parts choices. I’d like to place just one order to Digikey and Mouser and include any extra “contingency” parts (I have very little in the parts bin). This leads to my questions:
1. Any reason the 15V naked transformer is a bad choice? (It fits well on the board right where the normal PCB mount version would go.)
2. With the 15V transformer, do any parts values need to be adjusted from Jim’s current BOM?
3. Should I include C2, C7 in my parts order, and if so, what sort of caps do these need to be? Are there appropriate Mouser/Digikey part numbers? How does one know if they are needed?
4. It seems that R12 is the resistor value that one would change to alter the gain. Since I don’t know what gain will be best for the ACA (or any other amp for that matter) I was planning to order several values of R12 between 1K and 10K. Does that seem like a reasonable approach?
5. I’m planning to order 100uF caps for C3, C4 etc. (Mouser part number UKZ1E101MPM) based on Jim’s BOM notes. Does this seem appropriate or better to go with 220uF?
6. The Red LEDs in the BOM are out of stock so I choose these: Mouser HLMP-1700. Should they be OK?
7. I am planning to purchase the ALPS 100K pot. There was discussion around using values from 10K to 100K. Is there a consensus on this, or is it just a tradeoff between one benefit for another?
I remember someone looking for a Mouser/Digikey BOM that could be shared. Following answers to the above questions, I would be happy to share mine. Maybe that will be my first (small) contribution of value? Thanks!
Let me first say ‘Thanks!’ to Wayne and Jim for all their contributions to make the WHAMMY circuit/boards available. I am a frequent lurker here but don’t normally have anything of value to contribute (and this post is no exception LOL!)
I have purchased the WHAMMY board and I am assembling my Mouser/Digikey orders. My intention for this project is to use it as both a Preamp (for my ACA under construction) and as a headphone amp.
I will be using an Amveco 62073 15V 35VA (naked) toroid since I have one in my parts bin. I figure the lower voltage will help minimize the heat generated, and since I live in Phoenix, AZ, less heat is always appreciated!
I have read everything posted that is related to this project (at least twice). Because of the flexibility of the design, it seems there is some latitude for the builder, in terms of parts choices. I’d like to place just one order to Digikey and Mouser and include any extra “contingency” parts (I have very little in the parts bin). This leads to my questions:
1. Any reason the 15V naked transformer is a bad choice? (It fits well on the board right where the normal PCB mount version would go.)
2. With the 15V transformer, do any parts values need to be adjusted from Jim’s current BOM?
3. Should I include C2, C7 in my parts order, and if so, what sort of caps do these need to be? Are there appropriate Mouser/Digikey part numbers? How does one know if they are needed?
4. It seems that R12 is the resistor value that one would change to alter the gain. Since I don’t know what gain will be best for the ACA (or any other amp for that matter) I was planning to order several values of R12 between 1K and 10K. Does that seem like a reasonable approach?
5. I’m planning to order 100uF caps for C3, C4 etc. (Mouser part number UKZ1E101MPM) based on Jim’s BOM notes. Does this seem appropriate or better to go with 220uF?
6. The Red LEDs in the BOM are out of stock so I choose these: Mouser HLMP-1700. Should they be OK?
7. I am planning to purchase the ALPS 100K pot. There was discussion around using values from 10K to 100K. Is there a consensus on this, or is it just a tradeoff between one benefit for another?
I remember someone looking for a Mouser/Digikey BOM that could be shared. Following answers to the above questions, I would be happy to share mine. Maybe that will be my first (small) contribution of value? Thanks!
3. C2 and C7 should only be used if there are oscillation issues with the op-amp you choose. You would probably need a scope(which I don't have) to verify if the op-amp is oscillating. Also, if the op-amp is very hot to the touch, it could be a sign that the op-amp is oscillating.
4. Resistors between 1k and 4.75k should be appropriate for setting the gain down as low as 2.
5. As Jim has stated before, 100uF caps are fine for the op-amp's decoupling caps. Personally, I would add some .1uF caps from pins 4 and 8 to ground.
I'm still patiently waiting for the boards to become available in the diyAudio Store before I can start assembling my example.
Hopefully, that 72 hour delay is about to expire...fingers crossed.
4. Resistors between 1k and 4.75k should be appropriate for setting the gain down as low as 2.
5. As Jim has stated before, 100uF caps are fine for the op-amp's decoupling caps. Personally, I would add some .1uF caps from pins 4 and 8 to ground.
I'm still patiently waiting for the boards to become available in the diyAudio Store before I can start assembling my example.
Hopefully, that 72 hour delay is about to expire...fingers crossed.
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We have now switched warehouse/systems, and WHAMMY boards are now available for purchase in the store again. If you encounter any problems ordering, please email contact@diyaudiostore.com detailing any issues. Thank you.
No issues, with stock plans... they need to be 1.2V which are easily found in red colour...better if they match
