weiliang , you have to put in the first post or theme for each DAC graphics like these http://img04.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i4/647667811/T2zvDFXeVaXXXXXXXX_!!647667811.jpg
It's great to add credibility to your devices. =)
Yes the test result is mine...
use toroid transformer is more better that R-core ones after comparing and testing, and the toroid transformer is customize from factory, it is special for this DAC.
if you prefer it, you can ask the site.they will reply you.Thanks.
regards
weiliang
I'm interested in the new es9018 dac from weiliang but it gets a bit expensive for me at about 230$ with assembled board + case + usb. I could get a custom made torroid transformer locally for a good price. The thing is I'm now using a M-Audio FastTrack Pro sound-card and I want to upgrade the digital to analog conversion. I have a modded ta2020 amplifier and another sherwood s-5000 tube amp in restoration. I will use them with a pair of fostex fe206e that I am also building the enclosures for (I only need to glue them, everything si cut to spec )
So is it worth to upgrade the M-Audio sound card to this DAC? I was also looking to the Zero DAC and was wondering if there'd be much difference between a modded Zero and stock es9018.
I like to replace stuff in gear I get and Zero is a good starting point, especially with all the info available. This would be my first DAC, I have no experience with them and also don't know much about the electronics involved in DACs. I can find my way around a tube amp or a small chip amp but DACs...not so much. I'd like to get my hands dirty but I am a bit reluctant about the es9018 as there's not much info regarding this specific build (and no hope for a schematic as it seems from weiliang).
This is for weiliang:
Providing schematics, even in private is a good way to stand behind your product. It would help many diy-ers (you are on diyaudio.com) with troubleshooting/improving/modding for the sake of it of your product. If you are afraid about someone else copying your design...well...if that someone wants to do it he will do it, and not in a long time!
You'd encourage the sales of your product as there's transparency. So far, for me, it's a bit of a gamble to buy the dac9 or es9018 version. It's also pretty hard to start a modding thread (something that would boost your sales) if we can't follow a schematic, a good build would attract some attention. Even if it's not the best integration there are a lot of skilled people on this forum that would take your product to the next level.
I hope I didn't offend you with my ideas, I just see it that way and I'm sure many more are too.
) So is it worth to upgrade the M-Audio sound card to this DAC? I was also looking to the Zero DAC and was wondering if there'd be much difference between a modded Zero and stock es9018.
I like to replace stuff in gear I get and Zero is a good starting point, especially with all the info available. This would be my first DAC, I have no experience with them and also don't know much about the electronics involved in DACs. I can find my way around a tube amp or a small chip amp but DACs...not so much. I'd like to get my hands dirty but I am a bit reluctant about the es9018 as there's not much info regarding this specific build (and no hope for a schematic as it seems from weiliang).
This is for weiliang:
Providing schematics, even in private is a good way to stand behind your product. It would help many diy-ers (you are on diyaudio.com) with troubleshooting/improving/modding for the sake of it of your product. If you are afraid about someone else copying your design...well...if that someone wants to do it he will do it, and not in a long time!
You'd encourage the sales of your product as there's transparency. So far, for me, it's a bit of a gamble to buy the dac9 or es9018 version. It's also pretty hard to start a modding thread (something that would boost your sales) if we can't follow a schematic, a good build would attract some attention. Even if it's not the best integration there are a lot of skilled people on this forum that would take your product to the next level.
I hope I didn't offend you with my ideas, I just see it that way and I'm sure many more are too.
To reply to part of your post..over the years I have collected several "sound card" DACS. A Presonus Project, M-Box2, Lexicon Omega and M-Audio Delta 66. They are all good for recording/studio work, but none compare to what is available with good quality DIY designs for what we like to call "Audiophile" listening. The cost/complexity range is wide but it's highly likely you will enter a new level building this or one of the other DACs supported here on the forum. Unfortunately, if you don't have access to hear some completed units, you will have to take the path I did - build more than one and find out how it sounds in your particular system. You can always sell what doesn't appeal to you and it might be just what someone else is looking for.
while everyone is getting exciting with ES9018 & DAC7
For a absoulte beginner like me, play and learning(try improving or messing up) the electronics with
my little dac5 seems to a good start.
v1.9
orginal with LT1117 instead of AMS1117
1. LM317/337 replace with LT317/337, get a crisppy sound.
2. Remove biasing A for opamp(LME49720), is getting too hot, suggested by weilang.
3. by adding 2 extra capacitors on the main capacitor, i get a bit more deep bass
4. replace the orginal BC013 10v/100uf on wm8741 pin8&9 with a oscon 6.3/47uf for digital supply.
* Muse 50v/47uf and elna 35v/0.47uf
**3&4 has a very much improvement, especially with oscon SP on digial circuit. more pleasant to listen with this little dac.
share my 0.2
I may try to replace the opamp recitifier circuit with some fast soft recovery diodes and replacing the 8741 power regulator by adding a LT1963 extra circuit on it in the near future.
For a absoulte beginner like me, play and learning(try improving or messing up) the electronics with
my little dac5 seems to a good start.
v1.9
orginal with LT1117 instead of AMS1117
1. LM317/337 replace with LT317/337, get a crisppy sound.
2. Remove biasing A for opamp(LME49720), is getting too hot, suggested by weilang.
3. by adding 2 extra capacitors on the main capacitor, i get a bit more deep bass
4. replace the orginal BC013 10v/100uf on wm8741 pin8&9 with a oscon 6.3/47uf for digital supply.
* Muse 50v/47uf and elna 35v/0.47uf
**3&4 has a very much improvement, especially with oscon SP on digial circuit. more pleasant to listen with this little dac.
share my 0.2
I may try to replace the opamp recitifier circuit with some fast soft recovery diodes and replacing the 8741 power regulator by adding a LT1963 extra circuit on it in the near future.
Attachments
Last edited:
The only thing(s) I have changed on mine are all of the .1 uf box capacitors, and it made a huge difference in the SQ. More bass, way better timber(tone), and it also plays louder now(?), so I am happy. I do have the opa627s.
I used some of the ERO Vishay 1837 I found for less than .50 each. They were a tight fit, had to load most from underside of the board.
The thing was very quiet at first after the cap swap, but I turned the volume way down, and went to bed. When I got up, I could hear a bumping coming from the garage, and the sound had cleared up for the most part. I would imagine it will get slightly better over the next few days.
Glad to see some interest in modding going on for such a deserving design, thanks weiliang.
I used some of the ERO Vishay 1837 I found for less than .50 each. They were a tight fit, had to load most from underside of the board.
The thing was very quiet at first after the cap swap, but I turned the volume way down, and went to bed. When I got up, I could hear a bumping coming from the garage, and the sound had cleared up for the most part. I would imagine it will get slightly better over the next few days.
Glad to see some interest in modding going on for such a deserving design, thanks weiliang.
SQ, what means SQ? Please enlighten me
1837 0.1uf(104) vishay, this one?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have made some other modification on the digial circuit part, need a few days to see how i would like it.
I've been reading up on some of the various biasing methods, pretty interesting.
The MKP capacitors I have are blue, otherwise just like your picture. I got them from West Florida Components. The overall Sound Quality has taken a boost.
I'm about to pick up a few of the os-con for the dac supply as you have done.
Am interested to find out how your other mods worked out...
The MKP capacitors I have are blue, otherwise just like your picture. I got them from West Florida Components. The overall Sound Quality has taken a boost.
I'm about to pick up a few of the os-con for the dac supply as you have done.
Am interested to find out how your other mods worked out...
Those 104 on board are ecops(as the seller said)
I have done another simple mod, replace the philips 10uf/6v to oscon on the LT1117 output cap to 8805. sonic changed, but wasn't as i expect as good.
probably still the noise output from 1086 regulator?i've also brought some 220p
by reading other opamp circuits, replacing the RC3 & RC6 with the caps on above they said have some improvement. is that ture?
If i have done anything wrong(messing up), please electronic expert here give me advice, i'm a absolute beginner, keep learning by reading other dacs schematic, pictures then apply the concept on my "fiver"
Attachments
Last edited:
I wish I had more time to experiment with different circuits and components, this is my setup I listen to at work, don't want to be without it for too long.
Kids take all my spare time, but that's ok for now.
I appreciate seeing the pictures of the resistor removal, might try that too.
If I do ever try some discrete op amps, I will want them to be without additional bias.
Kids take all my spare time, but that's ok for now.
I appreciate seeing the pictures of the resistor removal, might try that too.
If I do ever try some discrete op amps, I will want them to be without additional bias.
Hello Kent,
Schottky diodes 1N5819 40V/1A are a good choice.
An excellent choice to improve the sound quality is a high precision TCXO 1ppm 12.000000MHZ
Last edited:
some quickies:
1. I've tried to oscon on the clock supply (pain, have to lift up the 104 SMD). later found out i the caps replaced is a 8805 digital supply. can hear the difference, but i don't like em.
2. replace the oscon finally in the right place for the clock onboard(12mhz), sound become more clean.
after burnout 10days. The sound shift, i don't like it.
Heard the sound range shift towards treble. However the bass are more "elastic"
I shall undo the 8805 digital supply cap and leave the clock oscon supply cap.
I brought a handful of on-semi 860 diode which are absolutely bargain decide to put on the analogue part soon. for the digital supply part i may try the sbyv27 series.
I had the 1ppm 12mhz clock installed when i purchase the board. Be honest, 1ppm clock for usd$7 looks too good to be ture? Where can i find a good oscillators for in dip14 package? I saw the vanguard brand in ebay, however, the seller was shipping out from hong kong which i doubt they are china cheap made anyway....Which brand i can trust?
the clock on my 6631a is 49.xxx mhz not 12mhz
check out the pics at #111 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/212915-weiliang-dac5-wm8741-tenor-te7022-12.html#post3144137
I haven't done the color band capacitors RC3 & RC6.
Read some posts before, said too big or too small will make the omamp self-oscillating.
Some say replace ordinary color band with mica capacitors can use a smaller capacity, is that ture?
And i don't have a scope, therefore i will leave it untouch at the moment.
100R output resistor:
replace 100R with film capacitors? replacing it or add an additional?
Is there an quicker method than use a DDM, pin by pin to trace to keep "downtime" mininum?
1. I've tried to oscon on the clock supply (pain, have to lift up the 104 SMD). later found out i the caps replaced is a 8805 digital supply. can hear the difference, but i don't like em.
2. replace the oscon finally in the right place for the clock onboard(12mhz), sound become more clean.
after burnout 10days. The sound shift, i don't like it.
Heard the sound range shift towards treble. However the bass are more "elastic"
I shall undo the 8805 digital supply cap and leave the clock oscon supply cap.
I brought a handful of on-semi 860 diode which are absolutely bargain decide to put on the analogue part soon. for the digital supply part i may try the sbyv27 series.
I had the 1ppm 12mhz clock installed when i purchase the board. Be honest, 1ppm clock for usd$7 looks too good to be ture? Where can i find a good oscillators for in dip14 package? I saw the vanguard brand in ebay, however, the seller was shipping out from hong kong which i doubt they are china cheap made anyway....Which brand i can trust?
I think when usb isn't connect, is using the main clock.
the clock on my 6631a is 49.xxx mhz not 12mhz
check out the pics at #111 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/212915-weiliang-dac5-wm8741-tenor-te7022-12.html#post3144137
I haven't done the color band capacitors RC3 & RC6.
Read some posts before, said too big or too small will make the omamp self-oscillating.
Some say replace ordinary color band with mica capacitors can use a smaller capacity, is that ture?
And i don't have a scope, therefore i will leave it untouch at the moment.
100R output resistor:
replace 100R with film capacitors? replacing it or add an additional?
Is there an quicker method than use a DDM, pin by pin to trace to keep "downtime" mininum?
Last edited:
Thanks Kent, so you need a scope now to watch over your project?
I know some of those capacitors can take a very long time to burn in, might want to give it some more time. The small film capacitors I swapped have just had the bass come back after three weeks of 8 hours a day running.
The output resistors are directly in the signal path, was going to swap them for better(more$$) film type resistors, and see if that made any appreciable difference.
I know some of those capacitors can take a very long time to burn in, might want to give it some more time. The small film capacitors I swapped have just had the bass come back after three weeks of 8 hours a day running.
The output resistors are directly in the signal path, was going to swap them for better(more$$) film type resistors, and see if that made any appreciable difference.