I'm actually going to use MDF for the trial ones. Once I get the shape/measurements I'm after, I'll make them out of solid hardwood. I'm still not sure what I'll finish the cabinets in, and that'll dictate what hardwood I use for the horn. I'm leaning towards ambrosia maple with a red dye sprayed over it right now, but that can definitely change.
I can figure out the angles and the roundovers in the horn, but what do I use for the throat diameter and depth? Maybe... 1/4" to 3/8" depth and the same diameter as the tweeter?
Is there anywhere I can purchase a mounting adapter to mount the tweeter to the horn I make?
Here is the drawing pages for the Yuishis.......
Been thinkin' long and hard about this myself... problem is which 12 or 15 to mate i with, without taking out another mortgage, Suitable compression drivers come in many praice ranges and can be changed fairly easily..... well, almost...
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Been thinkin' long and hard about this myself... problem is which 12 or 15 to mate i with, without taking out another mortgage, Suitable compression drivers come in many praice ranges and can be changed fairly easily..... well, almost...
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Your link doesn't work. Is this the page?... [URL="http://www.geocities.jp/arai401204/Horn_Page/Horn_Speakers.html"]Handicraft of wood horn speakers
I feel your pain
. One of these days I'd also love to do a true DSP active, open baffle design, but that gets pricey by the time you purchase (4) 15" woofers for the bass, the mids and tweeters, 3 different 2 channel amps, and the DSP. And I really don't have the room for that. But I heard the Emerald Physics, and they were amazing!! He CRANKED Megadeth's song Trust and they didn't skip a beat, their bass was some of the best at AXPONA IMO, these hammered.
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Beautiful they are but for mysef I was thinking more along the lines of a reflex, BVR or maybe an Onken, but suitable drivers for Onkens doesn't come cheap... ot that I'm looking for the cheapest ones, more something in the middle price range.. and HiEff... I plan to go lower watt class A, - 20W or thereabouts...
but for mysef I was thinking more along the lines of a reflex, BVR or maybe an Onken, but suitable drivers for Onkens doesn't come cheap... ot that I'm looking for the cheapest ones, more something in the middle price range.. and HiEff... I plan to go lower watt class A, - 20W or thereabouts...
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Beautiful they are
I love speakers so either way, can't wait to see what you decide
. And thanks for the link!! One of these 2 will be the one I build first. The difference is, one has "fins" and the other doesn't. What do the fins do for dispersion? Seems like they're a lot of work to implement; is it worth it?A-480 Horn With Fins
A-480 Horn W/out fins
"Deep throat" drivers like the JBL 2420, TAD 2001, Altec (forgot the old #) have a (nearly) narrow conical horn built into their throat, it will "beam" above 4-5 kHz without the vanes to direct the HF outward.
Most modern "pancake" drivers like yours will "fill" a 90 degree horn up to 16 kHz without requiring the fins, preferable from a diffraction standpoint.
Make the round to square transition as smooth as possible.
I have a pair of thread on to bolt on adapter plates I could sell/trade you, PM if interested.
Art
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Gotcha, and the D220 doesn't have the deeper throat? And regarding the throat entry for tweeter into the wood horn... make it as shallow as possible and make the transition as smooth as possible; correct?
Anywhere to purchase a threaded plate that'll mount the tweeter to the horn I build?
I am always amazed when people know more about a driver than the engineer that designed it does.
The D220 only has the threaded throat. Is there an adapter anywhere that has the same threads that'll screw to the horn?
Apologies on both, I did miss them. TONS of amazing info here!! Thankfully I have the day tomorrow to re-read and process it
. Thanks guys!
Besides appearance, another reason to choose one type waveguide/horn over another is its coverage pattern. To a first approximation, the angle it will cover at any frequency (and in a single dimension) is about the angle that the walls form in that dimension at around 1/4 to 1/2 wavelength (around 3-4" for 3kHz) from the throat. Roughly, of course, and there are other effects near the end where you pattern will narrow at low frequencies where the horn ends (so there is often an "anti-waistbanding" flare or large roundover there to compensate). But in general, look at the flare, and if the walls aren't straight but continually expand, expect the highs to beam more than the mids. You might want things narrow at some frequencies to minimize reflections at the sides of the room or might want them wide to cover more places in the room.
If you aren't feeling like sawdust of an evening, Keele's paper is understandable and gives a lot of helpful info -- http://www.xlrtechs.com/dbkeele.com/PDF/Keele%20(1975-05%20AES%20Preprint)%20-%20Whats%20So%20Sacred%20Exp%20Horns.pdf
If you aren't feeling like sawdust of an evening, Keele's paper is understandable and gives a lot of helpful info -- http://www.xlrtechs.com/dbkeele.com/PDF/Keele%20(1975-05%20AES%20Preprint)%20-%20Whats%20So%20Sacred%20Exp%20Horns.pdf
Are you looking for something like this?
Selenium ADF25-25 Horn Adapter
Plastic, but I have bought metals ones somewhere. Maybe P.E.
Selenium ADF25-25 Horn Adapter
Plastic, but I have bought metals ones somewhere. Maybe P.E.
OK, a 12" is typically ~70 deg/-6/2 kHz Vs ~90 deg/-6/1.44 kHz, so pretty narrow unless you have a long, narrow room. Anyway, looking forward to what the Beta actually measures off axis this high up.
GM
Here are some measurements I took tonight of the 12a-2. Black is on axis, red is 45 deg, and blue is 90 deg. I'm aiming for 1.8k, 3rd order electrical at this point, but that depends on the tweeter. Sorry for the pic, I just snapped a shot of the screen with my phone.
Next I'll get some of the Selenium D220ti.
Next I'll get some of the Selenium D220ti.
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