• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Want to build a PP spud.

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6dx8 push pull amp....
 

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How about the 6MD8? It's a triple triode with shared cathode, use one section as the preamp/driver and the other two sections in parallel for about 1W output into say 8~10k. One tube per channel, I think Tubelab mentioned it somewhere in the forum.
 
How about the 6MD8? It's a triple triode with shared cathode, use one section as the preamp/driver and the other two sections in parallel for about 1W output into say 8~10k. One tube per channel, I think Tubelab mentioned it somewhere in the forum.
I would have no issue with the concept, but compared to the 6BN11 it has to many disadvantages. Its low gm, relatively low mu, has shared cathodes so cant be set up as garter bias (ease of use) and probably offers lower power.

Shoog
 
shoog hide an lnd150 mosfet as a phase inverter somewhere and use your 6bh11

Already discussed:

If we aim for the last option, a triode antitiode pair then we can consider:

6BH11 Pentode plate current- 12.5 gm- 7.5mA/V dissipation- 2.5W
Triodes Plate current- 13mA gm- 8.5mA/V mu- 46 dissipation- 2.5W.
This offers the option of either putting the pentode up front to generate massive gain for feedback, or a respectable triode driver of a triode-antitriode output.

Shoog
 
 

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but it still needs two more 6SN7's to do the job.

Or an input step-up xfmr.

All this trouble. Just tape two $1 12HL7 together, no input xfmr. needed.

This effort to squeeze two+ tubes into one bottle just makes the amplifier look like some cheap 60's phono amplifier, and it likely will sound that way too if some nutty OT is needed. And then to have to use some odd NOS tubes that won't be available in ten years..... Suggest marketing this in Lunatic Asylums with ET's picture printed on the front panel.
 
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Hey, there is a product called "water glass", or sodium silicate in water solution. It is used for insulating furnaces. You paint it on and let it dry, it leaves a clear glass "glue".
If it gets too hot however, it foams up like styrofoam (foam glass), forming a high temp insulation.

So now you can take any tubes of your choice, and make them one. Air cooling needed or they poof into foam glass.

Another possibility would be sodium borate, or Borax. This stuff melts into a glass like material at a lower temperature than real glass. Use a propane torch. It "wets" surfaces easily. Commonly used for brazing flux.
Cannot get this stuff wet though, or it dissolves away. Could try mixing the two, no idea what that will do. Maybe I can make my sub-mini tube "IC" this way. Or just pot them in clear silicone.
 
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