So I was just wondering about this...
Why get some very expensive Cardas(there might be some other much more expensive ones, but Cardas is already out of what I am willing to roll out for some binding posts) when you could solder the wires directly to a wire that is comming out of the amp.
Is there something magic that the Cardas are doing to the sound?
I know the draw back of soldering: it's not easy to disconnect/reconnect... Are there some other disadvantages? I for one don't mind about soldering them as I am not moving my amps around.
Any opinions? Please answer!
Thank you
PS: The amps are gainclones
Why get some very expensive Cardas(there might be some other much more expensive ones, but Cardas is already out of what I am willing to roll out for some binding posts) when you could solder the wires directly to a wire that is comming out of the amp.
Is there something magic that the Cardas are doing to the sound?
I know the draw back of soldering: it's not easy to disconnect/reconnect... Are there some other disadvantages? I for one don't mind about soldering them as I am not moving my amps around.
Any opinions? Please answer!
Thank you
PS: The amps are gainclones
roibm said:
Well, speakers get moved, amps get moved, preamps get moved, etc. even if you don't plan to do it.
Besides, you _are_ going to clean and dust around your setup aren't you? _grin_
What I do is hardwire (Solder) one end of the connections permanently and leave the other where it can be freed to move the equipment.
My preamp has four connectors soldered to the pre and the cables hang with connectors on the ends.
I suggest instead of Cardas or other expensive and usually heavy or solid and expensive looking piece, just buy the simplest and smallest pair of binding posts you can. The smaller whatever you put in the signal path the better.
Then don't use terminals on the speaker cables just put them in the binding posts.
IMHO, YMMV, Standard disclaimers.
Regards
Ken L
No there is no magic to expensive speaker posts - they are simply more impressive looking The same applies to phono connections and power connections.
If you can live with the lack of flexibility of directly soldering all your leads/wires then certainly do it, otherwise just stick with cheap but well-made components, in my humble opinion
The same applies to phono connections and power connections. If you can live with the lack of flexibility of directly soldering all your leads/wires then certainly do it, otherwise just stick with cheap but well-made components, in my humble opinion
I would believe binding posts would be the best solution. You may want to experiment with different wire or as mentioned, you may need to move things around and need a longer cable.
For inexpensive posts, I like these: Dual Binding Post
If you want to get tweeky, you can replace the nuts and washers with brass equivalents.
For inexpensive posts, I like these: Dual Binding Post
If you want to get tweeky, you can replace the nuts and washers with brass equivalents.
Ok, I won't argue about it, as I've only used it on one set of speakers. But when I hard-wired that end, and lost the Speakons, there was a huge gain in sound quality - particularly in the bass, which lost it's detached/delayed quality, and joined the rest of the music. I changed speaker cable too, but as the cable was copper already, and with a good dialectric, how could *that* have made any audible difference?
If you compare any connector to hardwireing, youll get the result you describe. More or less that is.
For the experience about the bass getting in its right element, it could easily be a matter of the change of speaker cables. If the first set of cables was lets say 1mm2 and the second set was 4mm2, you'd see such a change. Many commercial speaker cables are pretty useless for high power applications, as they are sporting 1mm2 or less.
Magura
For the experience about the bass getting in its right element, it could easily be a matter of the change of speaker cables. If the first set of cables was lets say 1mm2 and the second set was 4mm2, you'd see such a change. Many commercial speaker cables are pretty useless for high power applications, as they are sporting 1mm2 or less.
Magura
Here's a simple alternative to using expensive BP, yet IMO, it offers the same or better performance. It is somewhat based on Cardas patented posts approach, but different elements are used.
For permanent connectors I used the copper foil (from inductors). I cut 1" strip in half, but for better current capabilities, one can fold it for double thicknes. That post accepts spades, bare wire, or if you want, you can make your own "spades" from the same foil and solder it to speaker cable wires
For permanent connectors I used the copper foil (from inductors). I cut 1" strip in half, but for better current capabilities, one can fold it for double thicknes. That post accepts spades, bare wire, or if you want, you can make your own "spades" from the same foil and solder it to speaker cable wires
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What's good about this setup, is that it can be done in 10 min and provides all the quality and convenience you'll ever need. Some further thought has to be made as to the way wires from the amp are connected here, but this wouldn't present much problem.
International patents pending
International patents pending
Attachments
Of course my approach is not as elegant as Peter's, but he is in a class by himself, so I do not feel bad.
I used tweakaudio's advice (EVS), and use the binding post as a wire clamp. I drilled a hole in the back of my amp, and brought the output wires out to the binding post. Then, I use the binding post to clamp the amp output wire to my speaker wire spade lug.
Randy
I used tweakaudio's advice (EVS), and use the binding post as a wire clamp. I drilled a hole in the back of my amp, and brought the output wires out to the binding post. Then, I use the binding post to clamp the amp output wire to my speaker wire spade lug.
Randy
If international Patents apply, why wouldn't you just use flat copper (from inductors) for all of it and eliminate the connection of a spade?
I honestly have contemplated this for my connections for my Pass DIY amps (if they ever get made), except using aluminum for a tapered backing plate to make sure the connections are tight.
I do wonder if the novelty outweighs the real gains, though.
Its all cool, though. Even if it doesn't make much difference, a person could BS it into being the most important part of why their DIY system outplays a high-end consumer grade set-up. Maybe that's half the fun. . .
Sandy.
I honestly have contemplated this for my connections for my Pass DIY amps (if they ever get made), except using aluminum for a tapered backing plate to make sure the connections are tight.
I do wonder if the novelty outweighs the real gains, though.
Its all cool, though. Even if it doesn't make much difference, a person could BS it into being the most important part of why their DIY system outplays a high-end consumer grade set-up. Maybe that's half the fun. . .
Sandy.
The connection of the spades were just for demonstration purposes, but if someone uses copper foil for cables, no spades required.
I believe that less bulky metal in connection, the better whole interface is.
It was Jonathan Carr who suggested that an improvement could be made by replacing copper nuts in Cardas posts with wooden or plastic ones.
I believe that less bulky metal in connection, the better whole interface is.
It was Jonathan Carr who suggested that an improvement could be made by replacing copper nuts in Cardas posts with wooden or plastic ones.
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