hey
i was hust wantering if it is possible to use a subwoofer for a bass guitar. i tried to use a car sub once, but i didnt have a powerfull amp to run it so i couldn't really test it.
i'm just a little worried that a sub's frequency responce doesn't have the range. if that is the case, can i hook up a mid-range driver with a sub and use that??
i was hust wantering if it is possible to use a subwoofer for a bass guitar. i tried to use a car sub once, but i didnt have a powerfull amp to run it so i couldn't really test it.
i'm just a little worried that a sub's frequency responce doesn't have the range. if that is the case, can i hook up a mid-range driver with a sub and use that??
thanks guys
i just got one more question - is it possible to build my own amp for the bass driver? i tried using an acuostic guitar amp with an external mid-range driver - the amp didn't have the power and there was hardly any low frequency. i then hooked up the mid-driver to a mixer amp - it works but the amp (which has a 200w output) peaks and im pretty sure the driver won't last. if i get a proper bass driver will it be more efficent?? or should i rather just invest in a real bass amp?
i just got one more question - is it possible to build my own amp for the bass driver? i tried using an acuostic guitar amp with an external mid-range driver - the amp didn't have the power and there was hardly any low frequency. i then hooked up the mid-driver to a mixer amp - it works but the amp (which has a 200w output) peaks and im pretty sure the driver won't last. if i get a proper bass driver will it be more efficent?? or should i rather just invest in a real bass amp?
If you really want to build for the fun of it, look at the ESP sound.au.com website project 27.
Hi,
Like most amateur bass players I've practised and played through
most things and have owned a number of bass amplifiers / combos.
Avoid really cheap stuff, simply doesn't work well. Avoid any
transistor amplifier that is not specifically built for bass guitar,
they will sound poor, as do the really cheap bass amplifiers,
the amp needs some form of dynamic limiting / compression.
(I use an old Peavey mk111 bass head, built like a tank, sounds nice)
A proper bass (not guitar) 4x12 is awesome but rather large.
So most go for a 1x15 (8ohm). To this you can have the option
of adding another 1x15 (8ohm), a 4x10 (8ohm), or 2x10 (16ohm),
the latter known as a "brightbox", its about adding top end.
(I use a 1x15 for practise and add the 4x10 if playing live)
I also have a small practise amp.
Probably new best to start with a 1x15 combo.
Second-hand, a head and a 1x15 cabinet.
/sreten.
Like most amateur bass players I've practised and played through
most things and have owned a number of bass amplifiers / combos.
Avoid really cheap stuff, simply doesn't work well. Avoid any
transistor amplifier that is not specifically built for bass guitar,
they will sound poor, as do the really cheap bass amplifiers,
the amp needs some form of dynamic limiting / compression.
(I use an old Peavey mk111 bass head, built like a tank, sounds nice)
A proper bass (not guitar) 4x12 is awesome but rather large.
So most go for a 1x15 (8ohm). To this you can have the option
of adding another 1x15 (8ohm), a 4x10 (8ohm), or 2x10 (16ohm),
the latter known as a "brightbox", its about adding top end.
(I use a 1x15 for practise and add the 4x10 if playing live)
I also have a small practise amp.
Probably new best to start with a 1x15 combo.
Second-hand, a head and a 1x15 cabinet.
/sreten.Dan2 said:
It's essential that you use a real musical instrument speaker - HiFi, and particularly in-car, speakers will sound rubbish and die very quickly. An acoustic amp probably isn't designed for decent bass anyway, so would probably need modifying for bass guitar use.
A bass guitar amp is fairly simple to build, but I would suggest you look at the Behringer range of bass combos - reasonably priced and sound great. I bought my daughter a BX1200, 120W with 12 inch speaker - it looks and sounds brilliant, and everyone who has played through it has liked it!.
hi ...
i play bass ,and i tried using subs for a bass amp once , i tried tried tried and tried ! after all be SURE it ll not satisfy u .
try find some big PA speakers , it s really hard and expensive here to find instrument drivers or good PA drivers , i tetsed a very cheap RCF full range PA driver ( only 30$ ) and it works much much better than sub
after all if u wanna use the sub rememebr it s a hi fi car driver , a very bad driver to use as an instrument speaker !
i play bass ,and i tried using subs for a bass amp once , i tried tried tried and tried ! after all be SURE it ll not satisfy u .
try find some big PA speakers , it s really hard and expensive here to find instrument drivers or good PA drivers , i tetsed a very cheap RCF full range PA driver ( only 30$ ) and it works much much better than sub
after all if u wanna use the sub rememebr it s a hi fi car driver , a very bad driver to use as an instrument speaker !
i forgot , i have some good circuits for bass amp / pre / compressor , etc , i collect them over around 2 years , if u r looking for a circuit contact me .
at the end lemme tell u something ( an advice ! )
i tried to build a bass amp for myself for about two years , i built , built , built lotsa circuits , lotsa amps , lotsa pre amps , bought lotsa drivers , i spent soooooooooooooo much more than a medium combo amp ! after alllllll i understood whatever i try , i cant built an amp as good as a medium manufactured amp , after all these wastin time and money , i bought a marshall b65 for bout 500$ here , and i m so satisfy with it .
so if u don have reach to good instrument drivers ( like celestion , eminence ... ) it s better to earn ur money for a manufactured combo
at the end lemme tell u something ( an advice ! )
i tried to build a bass amp for myself for about two years , i built , built , built lotsa circuits , lotsa amps , lotsa pre amps , bought lotsa drivers , i spent soooooooooooooo much more than a medium combo amp ! after alllllll i understood whatever i try , i cant built an amp as good as a medium manufactured amp , after all these wastin time and money , i bought a marshall b65 for bout 500$ here , and i m so satisfy with it .
so if u don have reach to good instrument drivers ( like celestion , eminence ... ) it s better to earn ur money for a manufactured combo
what a load of codswallop
sure you'll get sound coming out of any speaker. However, if you're looking for a conventional ampeg fridge woolly cardboardy sound, these drivers won't do it.
Back in the old days of selmer & stuff, there was no distinction, and having worked my way through loads of bass cabs, cardboard speakers just aren't tough enough. You show me a conventional cab, I'll blow it up.
There's a big difference between quality sub speakers and cheap ones. JL audio, MTX, kicker, all of these speakers are *wild*. They aren't the cheap option, though.
So if you take like 2 15s, and horn or slot-reflex load those, then put a little cab on top with a pair of conventional 10 inch kevlars, a 6 inch metallic driver and a Selenium PA compression driver... what you've got there is very similar to my favourite Mesa Boogie cab, but even more overbuilt.
Active crossovers and independent power amps is the ideal, but if not, passive crossovers are a must.
You want to cross over roughly as follows:
15s: 30Hz-180Hz
10s: 180Hz-1kHz
8: 1kHz-4kHz
Compression driver: 4kHz
All should have approx 12dB/oct slopes on them.
Here are some ideal drivers:
15: MTX T9515-04 / JL Audio 13W7 (13.5")
10: Parts-Express.com: HiVi D10G 10" Kevlar/Paper Woofer | d10g 10 inch woofer midbass woofer 10" driver sheilded woofer midwoofer kevlar cone
8: Parts-Express.com: Pyle Pro PDMR8 8" 360 Watt Sealed Back Midrange Driver | Pyle PDMR8 Midrange Driver 8" Midrange Driver 8" Driver driver 360 watt driver
Tops: Parts-Express.com: Selenium DH200E-E 1" Titanium Horn Driver 1-3/8"-18 TPI | compression driver tweeter horn driver high frequency 1" exit 1" throat HF PA driver tweeter driver
This will *not* give you a normal bass sound, this will rip your head off like hiphop.
These babies are good stuff, properly shaming ashdown, ampeg, everything: Mesa boogie bass cab image by dtkdemongene on Photobucket
What I'm suggesting is... even ruder!
The thing about cabs like that is that the bass sound is not what one expects from bass guitar, it's deeeeep, and trebly, sounds more like a very low electric guitar than what people expect from a woolly bass sound a la beatles.
The handy thought is that the cab is built much as you would a PA fullrange, in this case you want to get the sonic character from the preamp/head, or even use a computer with VST processing.
But I tell you, it's the only way to go.
sure you'll get sound coming out of any speaker. However, if you're looking for a conventional ampeg fridge woolly cardboardy sound, these drivers won't do it.
Back in the old days of selmer & stuff, there was no distinction, and having worked my way through loads of bass cabs, cardboard speakers just aren't tough enough. You show me a conventional cab, I'll blow it up.
There's a big difference between quality sub speakers and cheap ones. JL audio, MTX, kicker, all of these speakers are *wild*. They aren't the cheap option, though.
So if you take like 2 15s, and horn or slot-reflex load those, then put a little cab on top with a pair of conventional 10 inch kevlars, a 6 inch metallic driver and a Selenium PA compression driver... what you've got there is very similar to my favourite Mesa Boogie cab, but even more overbuilt.
Active crossovers and independent power amps is the ideal, but if not, passive crossovers are a must.
You want to cross over roughly as follows:
15s: 30Hz-180Hz
10s: 180Hz-1kHz
8: 1kHz-4kHz
Compression driver: 4kHz
All should have approx 12dB/oct slopes on them.
Here are some ideal drivers:
15: MTX T9515-04 / JL Audio 13W7 (13.5")
10: Parts-Express.com: HiVi D10G 10" Kevlar/Paper Woofer | d10g 10 inch woofer midbass woofer 10" driver sheilded woofer midwoofer kevlar cone
8: Parts-Express.com: Pyle Pro PDMR8 8" 360 Watt Sealed Back Midrange Driver | Pyle PDMR8 Midrange Driver 8" Midrange Driver 8" Driver driver 360 watt driver
Tops: Parts-Express.com: Selenium DH200E-E 1" Titanium Horn Driver 1-3/8"-18 TPI | compression driver tweeter horn driver high frequency 1" exit 1" throat HF PA driver tweeter driver
This will *not* give you a normal bass sound, this will rip your head off like hiphop.
These babies are good stuff, properly shaming ashdown, ampeg, everything: Mesa boogie bass cab image by dtkdemongene on Photobucket
What I'm suggesting is... even ruder!
The thing about cabs like that is that the bass sound is not what one expects from bass guitar, it's deeeeep, and trebly, sounds more like a very low electric guitar than what people expect from a woolly bass sound a la beatles.
The handy thought is that the cab is built much as you would a PA fullrange, in this case you want to get the sonic character from the preamp/head, or even use a computer with VST processing.
But I tell you, it's the only way to go.
for the unbelievers
This is what car subwoofers can do. Bass guitar amps don't do that.
YouTube - JL AUDIO 13W7==(2)** WINDOW BROKE***
Remember, bottom string of a 5 string bass is about 30Hz. On a vintage bass amp, the loudest not is a C 3rd fret on the A string, on a conventional trace elliott 1x15 + 4x10 the A or the G are the loudest.
On the really prime stuff, and car subs, it just keeps on getting better all the way down to B. And then start turning the machine head. Yup, it just keeps on going.
You do definitely need tops to complement the subs though.
This is what car subwoofers can do. Bass guitar amps don't do that.
YouTube - JL AUDIO 13W7==(2)** WINDOW BROKE***
Remember, bottom string of a 5 string bass is about 30Hz. On a vintage bass amp, the loudest not is a C 3rd fret on the A string, on a conventional trace elliott 1x15 + 4x10 the A or the G are the loudest.
On the really prime stuff, and car subs, it just keeps on getting better all the way down to B. And then start turning the machine head. Yup, it just keeps on going.
You do definitely need tops to complement the subs though.
codswallop - isn't that a prime ingredient in British ice cream? 
right then, guv...
bishop, I don't know what you're using for power, all you mention is the drivers. You're absolutely correct that audio-grade drivers will play much lower than conventional pro-sound/MI drivers. Even an Ampeg catalog I was perusing last night stated low freq. extension on most of their cabs as only 40Hz, that includes the venerable 8x10. Low E is 41Hz; so much for the B string on a 5 or 6 string.
BUT, the bass drivers you mention are waaaay less efficient than typical bass guitar drivers, like 82dB/W vs. 97dB/W. that is a HUGE gap, that must be filled in with POWER and lots of it, especially when comparing multiples of drivers, and esp. for live sound. I guarantee you will never see a stack of JL Audio subs backing up a raging live band. Or maybe you've done it, and you are sponsored by Crown, and there's a rack filled with 1200W power amps right behind that.
Also, your list of likely hi-fi suspects are all over the map in terms of efficiency, active crossovers and multiple amps are a must IMO.
As others mentioned, you will also get no upper harmonics/overtones if you rely solely on sub drivers, even a horn tweeter won't fill in here, you need to add 6" or 8" ers...
Same goes for subwoofer drivers - really low extension traded off for poor efficiency and little or nothing above a few hundred Hz in most cases.
right then, guv...bishop, I don't know what you're using for power, all you mention is the drivers. You're absolutely correct that audio-grade drivers will play much lower than conventional pro-sound/MI drivers. Even an Ampeg catalog I was perusing last night stated low freq. extension on most of their cabs as only 40Hz, that includes the venerable 8x10. Low E is 41Hz; so much for the B string on a 5 or 6 string.
BUT, the bass drivers you mention are waaaay less efficient than typical bass guitar drivers, like 82dB/W vs. 97dB/W. that is a HUGE gap, that must be filled in with POWER and lots of it, especially when comparing multiples of drivers, and esp. for live sound. I guarantee you will never see a stack of JL Audio subs backing up a raging live band. Or maybe you've done it, and you are sponsored by Crown, and there's a rack filled with 1200W power amps right behind that.
Also, your list of likely hi-fi suspects are all over the map in terms of efficiency, active crossovers and multiple amps are a must IMO.
As others mentioned, you will also get no upper harmonics/overtones if you rely solely on sub drivers, even a horn tweeter won't fill in here, you need to add 6" or 8" ers...
Same goes for subwoofer drivers - really low extension traded off for poor efficiency and little or nothing above a few hundred Hz in most cases.
As the bass cab should only be for on-stage monitoring, it's the PA which is important - DI through the PA, no need for a silly size bass cab.
As my daughters band dropped down to a duo (the drummer left - AGAIN!!), we just used to DI both bass and guitar directly in the PA, no monitors at all.
Both good musicians, play together really well, don't seem to need monitors.
I think things will change a as soon as a drummer is involved. Then one can't avoid having higher SPLs on stage.
OTOH I can't stand the usual bass-amp sound with the exaggerated high bass / low mids combined with heavily used compression.
As I always say: Bass for grown-ups is felt in your stomach and not in your chest.
But the engineer in me also knows that this is only achievable with large and heavy equipment. Large and heavy multiway systems are definitely fun to play through but they are no fun for your back etc.
So the best compromise is one of these clear-but-ugly sounding contraptions on stage and going to the PA from the pre-amp's balanced DI output.
And yes, don't overdo it in terms of loudness on stage !
Regards
Charles
OTOH I can't stand the usual bass-amp sound with the exaggerated high bass / low mids combined with heavily used compression.
As I always say: Bass for grown-ups is felt in your stomach and not in your chest.
But the engineer in me also knows that this is only achievable with large and heavy equipment. Large and heavy multiway systems are definitely fun to play through but they are no fun for your back etc.
So the best compromise is one of these clear-but-ugly sounding contraptions on stage and going to the PA from the pre-amp's balanced DI output.
And yes, don't overdo it in terms of loudness on stage !
Regards
Charles
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