planet10 said:And some things make such large differences that almost everyone hears the improvement.
damping.
Mozfet
Just read this thread twice and I still dont believe it!
rickpt, where have you been the past 20 years? Objective Tests on Audio Equipment will not tell you how it sounds. Now this has been covered so much in the past 20 years in the press that it is just not worth going over again. I have replaced a lot of NE5532 and NE5534 with various devices and all have sounded better, I would urge you to try some of the alternatives suggested, but please dont listen with your THD Meter we have far more discriminating devices that come free at birth.
'There are those that Know, and those that don't Know, and there are those that don't Know they don't Know'
Mozfet
Just read this thread twice and I still dont believe it!
rickpt, where have you been the past 20 years? Objective Tests on Audio Equipment will not tell you how it sounds. Now this has been covered so much in the past 20 years in the press that it is just not worth going over again. I have replaced a lot of NE5532 and NE5534 with various devices and all have sounded better, I would urge you to try some of the alternatives suggested, but please dont listen with your THD Meter we have far more discriminating devices that come free at birth.
'There are those that Know, and those that don't Know, and there are those that don't Know they don't Know'
Mozfet
Agree with wombat.
First upgrade for these players is a clock, no discussion.
No2 is to clean up the analog stages, but I wouldn´t use the Marantz own as it is. Big board, several opamps, not so good buffers, bad PS and so on.
Might as well do a discrete highend analog stage with dedicated PS. I upgraded a CD63 with LClock and Zapfilter, actually the biggest improvement was with the clock...
.... well both where huge improvements but the clock was a real jaw-dropper... never expected the result that I got.
After this I would play with feets, cables/cords and damping.
/Peter
First upgrade for these players is a clock, no discussion.
No2 is to clean up the analog stages, but I wouldn´t use the Marantz own as it is. Big board, several opamps, not so good buffers, bad PS and so on.
Might as well do a discrete highend analog stage with dedicated PS. I upgraded a CD63 with LClock and Zapfilter, actually the biggest improvement was with the clock...
.... well both where huge improvements but the clock was a real jaw-dropper... never expected the result that I got.
After this I would play with feets, cables/cords and damping.
/Peter
Wombat & Pan,
I should re-phase my question.
I have already carried out numerous upgrades/mods to my cd63 in the power supply and analog stages. I have tried a couple of different op-amps already.
My question is, will the LM6172 work in my player without any further mods or additions to the LM6172 itself?.
Please let me know.
Or if you have any other suggestions for op-amps. I would appreciate it.
Thanks
KevinLee
I should re-phase my question.
I have already carried out numerous upgrades/mods to my cd63 in the power supply and analog stages. I have tried a couple of different op-amps already.
My question is, will the LM6172 work in my player without any further mods or additions to the LM6172 itself?.
Please let me know.
Or if you have any other suggestions for op-amps. I would appreciate it.
Thanks
KevinLee
google search: marantz cd 67 op
This site shows it uses the NJM2114:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html
The LM6172 should fit!
Suggestion!?
Well, meanwhile everyone that reads what i write knows i am in love with the AD826.
This site shows it uses the NJM2114:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html
The LM6172 should fit!
Suggestion!?
Well, meanwhile everyone that reads what i write knows i am in love with the AD826.
LM6172 is a drop in to this player but I suggest you add at least one important thing - a cap between V+ and V- pins of the opamp.
Marantz's decoupling as is is not quite as good as needed for this fast opamp. Use for exaple as big SMD ceramic cap as you can get and are able to put into the player. I usually install these on top of the opamp.....
Ergo
Marantz's decoupling as is is not quite as good as needed for this fast opamp. Use for exaple as big SMD ceramic cap as you can get and are able to put into the player. I usually install these on top of the opamp.....
Ergo
I am going to short out the electrolytic caps (ELNA-s back to back) at the signal output on my CD6000OSE as sugested by ergo. However I don't have the service manual so I would be very gratefull if somebody could confirm that they are 2219, 2221, 2222 and 2220 before I start desoldering.
Thanks and I'll be sure to let you know if there's much of a difference
James
Thanks and I'll be sure to let you know if there's much of a difference
James
Yes, those are the right caps.
You can see the schematic here
http://strony.wp.pl/wp/diytube/cd6000b.JPG
Ergo
You can see the schematic here
http://strony.wp.pl/wp/diytube/cd6000b.JPG
Ergo
ERROR 403
I got some kind of error in Polish I suppose when clicking the link!
Hi Ergo,ergo said:Yes, those are the right caps.
You can see the schematic here
http://strony.wp.pl/wp/diytube/cd6000b.JPG
Ergo
I got some kind of error in Polish I suppose when clicking the link!
I redesign my www site, new adres is www.garmin.prv.pland here is Marantz CD6000 schematic schematic
Best regards
arek
Best regards
arek
Right I've just taken out the caps, and added a bit of blue tac around all supports for the pcb. I think there is a definite improvement in the sound. The only problem now is I get a fairly loud noise through the speakers when I press Stop or Play
Oh well...life is a compromise I guess. I still think its worth doing though
James
Oh well...life is a compromise I guess. I still think its worth doing though
James
jnxw2 - if you have a DMM (digital multimeter) then with mV-DC measurement range measure the voltage between cd player case and the output RCA center contacts.
The voltage has usually been no more than 10mV on either + or - side. For example the CD17 mkII on my floor that just got the same modification had +0.4mV DC on output pins....
Ergo
The voltage has usually been no more than 10mV on either + or - side. For example the CD17 mkII on my floor that just got the same modification had +0.4mV DC on output pins....
Ergo
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