Thanks for all of the ideas but my wife doesn't like the idea of using stone and really I would have to reinforce the floor.
Though I quite like the idea of turning the speaker out of swamp kauri and so does my wife, it is really rather beautiful and unique especially nicely lacquered. It is very expensive though so first I will continue putting together my frame design and if it sounds good we will get it made out of the swamp kauri.
Cheers
Tim
Though I quite like the idea of turning the speaker out of swamp kauri and so does my wife, it is really rather beautiful and unique especially nicely lacquered. It is very expensive though so first I will continue putting together my frame design and if it sounds good we will get it made out of the swamp kauri.
Cheers
Tim
Do you really need elaborate baffles? These sounded pretty incredible at Horn Fest.
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If you check out my first post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/123512-ultimate-ob-gallery-145.html#post4153719 you will see that I already have a mostly minimal suspended baffle design and it does sound pretty amazing but I do want a better enclosure for my dipole 15 as well as deeper bass which I don't think you can get without some form of baffle. And if I am going to do a baffle I might as well as try to make my ultimate woofer baffle and something unique at the same time.
Cheers
Tim
Cheers
Tim
They might have sounded decent, but holy crap they look like someone dumpster dove for old console stereo and television parts. O_O
Thanks for all of the ideas but my wife doesn't like the idea of using stone and really I would have to reinforce the floor.
Though I quite like the idea of turning the speaker out of swamp kauri and so does my wife, it is really rather beautiful and unique especially nicely lacquered. It is very expensive though so first I will continue putting together my frame design and if it sounds good we will get it made out of the swamp kauri.
Cheers
Tim
Well of you can lay your hands on that, that would be very beautiful....but Yes à bit pricy...
OB possibilities
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think you may be on to something here........
Ugly is as ugly does...
I find them pretty cool. Sort of Flash Gordonish retro/futuristic/steampunk form follows function.
My own weird stuff is suspended Trace Elliot by Celestion 15" woofers under a variety of suspended tweeters,( pretty sure I've settled on vintage Peerless 16 ohm alnicos) satellited with a sloped h frame, housing a 18" subwoofer.
Just received a SPA1000 plate amp to drive this with.
It's one fine amp!
Basslines are tight, textured, and get out of the mids domain very well.
After several ob combos, I'm finally understanding why so many don't return to monopole bass- monopole sounds unnatural and a little clumsy now.
My aging Polk is a theatre only player, now.
I find them pretty cool. Sort of Flash Gordonish retro/futuristic/steampunk form follows function.
My own weird stuff is suspended Trace Elliot by Celestion 15" woofers under a variety of suspended tweeters,( pretty sure I've settled on vintage Peerless 16 ohm alnicos) satellited with a sloped h frame, housing a 18" subwoofer.
Just received a SPA1000 plate amp to drive this with.
It's one fine amp!
Basslines are tight, textured, and get out of the mids domain very well.
After several ob combos, I'm finally understanding why so many don't return to monopole bass- monopole sounds unnatural and a little clumsy now.
My aging Polk is a theatre only player, now.
Speaking of ugly speakers-
These aren't very good looking, but now that I've settled on drivers, and type (no baffle, hangers), I'm hopeful some nice red oak, and some more creative shaping, will make this a looker, instead of a head turner (away).
Yes, those are caps, pinched in the binding posts.
Turns out a 4th order active filter is good between woofer and tweeter, but a first order slope sounds best between woofer and subwoofer.
Since my active x-over can't vary slopes, this is my option.
I did try a passive line level series cap; it sounded fine, but had a ton of insertion loss.
Many thanks to the swinging naked speaker post.
These aren't very good looking, but now that I've settled on drivers, and type (no baffle, hangers), I'm hopeful some nice red oak, and some more creative shaping, will make this a looker, instead of a head turner (away).
Yes, those are caps, pinched in the binding posts.
Turns out a 4th order active filter is good between woofer and tweeter, but a first order slope sounds best between woofer and subwoofer.
Since my active x-over can't vary slopes, this is my option.
I did try a passive line level series cap; it sounded fine, but had a ton of insertion loss.
Many thanks to the swinging naked speaker post.
Attachments
Not ugly at all to my eyes.
For 100Hz or so and above, nude driver is OK (or even preferable), but under that, you'd better have some support. In fact, as much as you can.
Have tried naked 18", and it's easily bottomed. Or you have to HP it at 35 or 40 Hz to save the woofer (and distortion).
Another side effect of naked woofer is when playing quietly, it looses the presence. No, I don't think it's the loudness stuff, the proportion of bass sound drops more than that. So it's not good at loud and quiet, can only operate in a narrow SPL range.
For 100Hz or so and above, nude driver is OK (or even preferable), but under that, you'd better have some support. In fact, as much as you can.
Have tried naked 18", and it's easily bottomed. Or you have to HP it at 35 or 40 Hz to save the woofer (and distortion).
Another side effect of naked woofer is when playing quietly, it looses the presence. No, I don't think it's the loudness stuff, the proportion of bass sound drops more than that. So it's not good at loud and quiet, can only operate in a narrow SPL range.
OB's require some pretty substantial EQ below about 800HZ generally (exact freq. depends on baffling). Trying to do this EQ passively is difficult and usually horribly inefficient. Personally, my triamp'd OB's are really only OB above 100HZ. Below that I have 12 inch Peerless XLS woofs in closed boxes with active EQ making them acoustically flat down to 20HZ, with a 12dB/oct. rolloff below 20HZ. I really like tight low bass, and don't know a better way to get that.
Going OB for bass seems foolish to me. Above 100HZ the OB intentionally brings the room acoustics into play significantly more than normal in a strategic way. Below 100HZ (or 300HZ for that matter), the typical room will bring the room acoustics into play more than you wanted, whether you like it or not (the wavelengths correlate with room boundary dimensions causing substantial comb filter effects that are less likely to get filled in by alternate reflection paths). When I heard the Linkwitz Orions, they were stunningly excellent except for the bass, which sounded pretty rolled off below about 50HZ.
Going OB for bass seems foolish to me. Above 100HZ the OB intentionally brings the room acoustics into play significantly more than normal in a strategic way. Below 100HZ (or 300HZ for that matter), the typical room will bring the room acoustics into play more than you wanted, whether you like it or not (the wavelengths correlate with room boundary dimensions causing substantial comb filter effects that are less likely to get filled in by alternate reflection paths). When I heard the Linkwitz Orions, they were stunningly excellent except for the bass, which sounded pretty rolled off below about 50HZ.
Isn't this roll-off below 50Hz of Orion the reason why Mr. Linkwitz himself suggested the use of 2 "Thor" sealed subs crossed @ 45Hz in the system?
Can concur from my own experiments as well - fully OB system bass sounds nice but hollow regardless of number and size of woofers (i was using 4 x Eminence Beta 15A in U-frame). Sealed of even TL sub-bass complements it very nicely.
Question however remain is what is best way to set up crossover between the monopole and dipole and crossover region inevitable ends up being cardioid-like which means irregularity in overall receptivity pattern and power response..
As such so far haven't found one solution which work best for all records of all kinds of music in that regard.
Can concur from my own experiments as well - fully OB system bass sounds nice but hollow regardless of number and size of woofers (i was using 4 x Eminence Beta 15A in U-frame). Sealed of even TL sub-bass complements it very nicely.
Question however remain is what is best way to set up crossover between the monopole and dipole and crossover region inevitable ends up being cardioid-like which means irregularity in overall receptivity pattern and power response..
As such so far haven't found one solution which work best for all records of all kinds of music in that regard.
I feel slot-loaded helps quite a bit. T-bass or high-impedance driven helps some more.
But, yes, if the goal is rattling the house at 'live level' SPL, most OB bass is not enough below 30-some Hz or even 40-ish.
Under moderate level in domestic use, it still has the merits - clean, musical, not fighting with the room, no troubles from boxes (in building them and fighting with resonances). Simply put, still worth it, or more than that. That's why OBs still find their homes.
But, yes, if the goal is rattling the house at 'live level' SPL, most OB bass is not enough below 30-some Hz or even 40-ish.
Under moderate level in domestic use, it still has the merits - clean, musical, not fighting with the room, no troubles from boxes (in building them and fighting with resonances). Simply put, still worth it, or more than that. That's why OBs still find their homes.
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I can assure you that these speakers can reproduce bass notes that boxed drivers
never can......
SoulSonic Impulse
Steinway Lyngdorf - Model D Speaker
Jamo : Floorstanding Speakers : R909
It all depends on how the baffle is constructed, driver quality and displacement ability, crossover tweaking and so on..
never can......
SoulSonic Impulse
Steinway Lyngdorf - Model D Speaker
Jamo : Floorstanding Speakers : R909
It all depends on how the baffle is constructed, driver quality and displacement ability, crossover tweaking and so on..
Our perception knows only about pressure. Humans don't have sensors for velocity. The difference is not in our perception, but in the excitation of the room.
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