Heh! It should sound big- it is big! if I had a pair of these in my room they'd pretty much meet in the middle of the space I have! What's going on with the Scan-Speak John? Some kind of damping or absorption of the backwave?
I could be all analytical and tell you that the felt pad on the midrange is designed to reduce back wave radiation at higher frequencies LP filter) so that the rear mid radiation rolls off smoothly to accommodate the lack of a rear tweeter. It probably does that to some extent. But its primary function is to prevent light from coming through the cone of the 8554. Without it there is an annoying yellow spot seen through the grill.
From Paul's blog: Leon Suter, designer of naked dipoles "Kyron Gaia".
You could buy them for a cool $198,000, including DSP, amps etc.
The build is second to none. Nice aluminium blocks.
They were launched in Melbourne Audio Show. I went first to their room (of course) .. and being the 1st person from public to ever hear them. I thought that was COOL
You could buy them for a cool $198,000, including DSP, amps etc.
The build is second to none. Nice aluminium blocks.
They were launched in Melbourne Audio Show. I went first to their room (of course) .. and being the 1st person from public to ever hear them. I thought that was COOL
Some more AE Dipole12s, Soulssonic:
and Lotusgroup:
/Erling
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and Lotusgroup:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
/Erling
I have tested it more now and Eminence Alpha 15a is best to keep not higher than 200 hz. 300 hz sound really bad.
Hi DIY community, I am new to this forum and put my current project Open Baffle
name Sapol and Ripol Sub
test phase
DSCN2914 | doityourself, lautsprecher | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
Salton Dipol Testphase | dipol, offtopic, salton, sapol, selbstbau, testphase | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
front and rear
Sa/Dipole Front/hinten | dipol, doityourself, fronthinten, openbaffle, ripol, sadipole | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
Salton Sapol/Dipol | dipol, doityourself, openbaffle, salton, sapoldipol, stereo | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
rear String Chassis
Salton Sa/Dipole | dipol, doityourself, sadipole, salton | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
terminal for connection
Dipole hintenTerminal/Spikes | dipol, dipole, doityourself, hintenterminalspikes, openbaffle, ripol | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
Ripol-Subwoofer
Ripol Subwoofer | doityourself, lautsprecher, ripol, subwoofer | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
name Sapol and Ripol Sub
test phase
DSCN2914 | doityourself, lautsprecher | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
Salton Dipol Testphase | dipol, offtopic, salton, sapol, selbstbau, testphase | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
front and rear
Sa/Dipole Front/hinten | dipol, doityourself, fronthinten, openbaffle, ripol, sadipole | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
Salton Sapol/Dipol | dipol, doityourself, openbaffle, salton, sapoldipol, stereo | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
rear String Chassis
Salton Sa/Dipole | dipol, doityourself, sadipole, salton | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
terminal for connection
Dipole hintenTerminal/Spikes | dipol, dipole, doityourself, hintenterminalspikes, openbaffle, ripol | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
Ripol-Subwoofer
Ripol Subwoofer | doityourself, lautsprecher, ripol, subwoofer | hifi-forum.de Bildergalerie
Hi Audiodidakt
excuse the late response
I've modified the day before yesterday on my Reckhorn A 403 Amplifier is a muttered from the Ripol subwoofer, and it interfered with quiet music passages now of course makes more fun to listen to music.
In the net, I searched for open baffle speakers or Googled a huge selection of interesting OB is available there, in all possible shapes, but no corresponding to my idea.
Even here in the DIY forum I've seen all the OBs are all built on the same design. The drivers are, predominantly, with a sound wall mounted or bolted, but hardly what is hung with rope cord here, then have the fronts built by their own inspirations / ideas.
The reuse of the polypropylene rope cord while the chassis is decoupled from the baffle, and therefore have almost no audible sound wall resonances.
Still have the front before with a 0.5 cm thick anti-vibration rubber mat to stick it. Also from behind a damping is provided, but unfortunately I lack the time now.
hope my english is understandable that I write, I rely on Google translator
Bye and good night in the DIY forum
excuse the late response
I've modified the day before yesterday on my Reckhorn A 403 Amplifier is a muttered from the Ripol subwoofer, and it interfered with quiet music passages now of course makes more fun to listen to music.
In the net, I searched for open baffle speakers or Googled a huge selection of interesting OB is available there, in all possible shapes, but no corresponding to my idea.
Even here in the DIY forum I've seen all the OBs are all built on the same design. The drivers are, predominantly, with a sound wall mounted or bolted, but hardly what is hung with rope cord here, then have the fronts built by their own inspirations / ideas.
The reuse of the polypropylene rope cord while the chassis is decoupled from the baffle, and therefore have almost no audible sound wall resonances.
Still have the front before with a 0.5 cm thick anti-vibration rubber mat to stick it. Also from behind a damping is provided, but unfortunately I lack the time now.
hope my english is understandable that I write, I rely on Google translator
Bye and good night in the DIY forum
First Watt B5 active OB x-over from Nelson Pass is a fantastic product. It sounds marvelous and do wonders for OB projects. Why struggle with passive x-overs for months? I was up and go witthin 5 minutes*
* for the record i have done some tests 3 weeks with a DBX digital x-over.
Loudspeakers:
Gear:
X-Over:
Sofa:
* for the record i have done some tests 3 weeks with a DBX digital x-over.
Loudspeakers:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Gear:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
X-Over:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sofa:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Blatent thievery of Linkwitz designs...(from some pages back)
I hope that I am not considered a blatant thief for doing a cosmetic knock-off of the Orions. My project has a different conception and design (except the small OB panel and shapes of the side cheeks). I just really liked the cosmetic of the Orions.
Any documentation I have done on the project always referred to S.L's website, and gave proper respect to Mr. & Mrs. Linkwitz (Mrs. Linkwitz designed the overall look of the Orions). I did exchange emails with Mr. Linkwitz, who stated that as long as I did not call them "Orions" he would be OK with that. And of course as long as I made no claims stating or suggesting that the Spirits have similar or comparable performance to the Orions I would be "safe". I named the project the "Spirit of Orion", but have truncated that to just the "Spirits".
I did state that if the Orions are better than the Spirits (and they should be as the Orions had been designed as a complete speaker/electronics system by someone who has a profound amount of research and experience), that they must be a very special speaker indeed.
I hope that I am not considered a blatant thief for doing a cosmetic knock-off of the Orions. My project has a different conception and design (except the small OB panel and shapes of the side cheeks). I just really liked the cosmetic of the Orions.
Any documentation I have done on the project always referred to S.L's website, and gave proper respect to Mr. & Mrs. Linkwitz (Mrs. Linkwitz designed the overall look of the Orions). I did exchange emails with Mr. Linkwitz, who stated that as long as I did not call them "Orions" he would be OK with that. And of course as long as I made no claims stating or suggesting that the Spirits have similar or comparable performance to the Orions I would be "safe". I named the project the "Spirit of Orion", but have truncated that to just the "Spirits".
I did state that if the Orions are better than the Spirits (and they should be as the Orions had been designed as a complete speaker/electronics system by someone who has a profound amount of research and experience), that they must be a very special speaker indeed.
The Scamp: An Alternate Approach to Passive OB Compensation
The "Scamp" is an all passive two-way design featuring a 10" B&C 10NW64 Neo woofer and an offset Usher 9950-20 tweeter. Crossed at 2000 Hz and 1800 Hz respectively, LR-2, The slight overlap is an intended part of the design.
Unique to this design is a variable rheostat which is shunted at the woofer’s terminals and adds adjustable resistance to the crossover circuit as well as the load the amplifier sees. This affects the lowpass characteristics and effectively scoops-out the midrange in a manner that can be dialed-in by the listener. In the design, it is an effective way to compensate for dipole roll-off since there is an additional 8dB of SPL headroom produced by the LF driver compared to that of the tweeter. Keeping resistance at the 2 primary legs of the potentiometer between 8 and 30 ohms, will result in a total load of 4-6 ohms per side, which should be safe for many SS amps. Dialing in additional resistance settings will fine tune the LF crossover point somewhere between ~1000Hz @ 4 ohms and ~1800Hz at 30 ohms with an infinite range of points in between. In my environment, a final resistance setting of 18 ohms produced the flattest on-axis in-room measurements and yielded a total load of 5.6 ohms per side that the amplifier sees. Once determined, an additional 2dB reduction of the tweeter level was needed, also provided by a variable l-pad pot.
To tune the Scamp one simply alternates between dialing-in a crossover point, then tweeter attenuation, in that order for an infinite array of points within the intended range of this design. I suppose the rheostats can ultimately be replaced by two fixed l-pad combinations (series and parallel resistors) once a proper balance is determined, resulting in a fixed version of this design... but I enjoy the flexibility as well as the ability to demonstrate the design concept on-the-fly.
Baffle size is a mere 15" x 24" which most spaces can accommodate easily. The LF driver is centered 14" from the bottom and the tweeters are offset in mirror images, with each center falling 3" down and 3" in from their respective sides. There is an adjustable foot on the rear which allows tilting the baffle back to help align the drivers acoustic centers.
My Scamp is driven by a single NAD 30 watt integrated amplifier. The LF output is both satisfying and clear, and does not strain at higher volumes.
The "Scamp" is an all passive two-way design featuring a 10" B&C 10NW64 Neo woofer and an offset Usher 9950-20 tweeter. Crossed at 2000 Hz and 1800 Hz respectively, LR-2, The slight overlap is an intended part of the design.
Unique to this design is a variable rheostat which is shunted at the woofer’s terminals and adds adjustable resistance to the crossover circuit as well as the load the amplifier sees. This affects the lowpass characteristics and effectively scoops-out the midrange in a manner that can be dialed-in by the listener. In the design, it is an effective way to compensate for dipole roll-off since there is an additional 8dB of SPL headroom produced by the LF driver compared to that of the tweeter. Keeping resistance at the 2 primary legs of the potentiometer between 8 and 30 ohms, will result in a total load of 4-6 ohms per side, which should be safe for many SS amps. Dialing in additional resistance settings will fine tune the LF crossover point somewhere between ~1000Hz @ 4 ohms and ~1800Hz at 30 ohms with an infinite range of points in between. In my environment, a final resistance setting of 18 ohms produced the flattest on-axis in-room measurements and yielded a total load of 5.6 ohms per side that the amplifier sees. Once determined, an additional 2dB reduction of the tweeter level was needed, also provided by a variable l-pad pot.
To tune the Scamp one simply alternates between dialing-in a crossover point, then tweeter attenuation, in that order for an infinite array of points within the intended range of this design. I suppose the rheostats can ultimately be replaced by two fixed l-pad combinations (series and parallel resistors) once a proper balance is determined, resulting in a fixed version of this design... but I enjoy the flexibility as well as the ability to demonstrate the design concept on-the-fly.
Baffle size is a mere 15" x 24" which most spaces can accommodate easily. The LF driver is centered 14" from the bottom and the tweeters are offset in mirror images, with each center falling 3" down and 3" in from their respective sides. There is an adjustable foot on the rear which allows tilting the baffle back to help align the drivers acoustic centers.
My Scamp is driven by a single NAD 30 watt integrated amplifier. The LF output is both satisfying and clear, and does not strain at higher volumes.
Attachments
Hi Stew, it seems all the 'confusions' had been cleared up. Even Mr. Linkwitz think so (there's nothing in his "black list").
Absolutely dynamite, matevana. I remember being quite interested in the OBs in your avatar, but this one is right up my alley. You certainly think a few things through...
Care to post a parts list, or a total cost? More pics?
Thanks Fwater! Here's a pic of the backs showing the assembled crossovers. The woofers are slightly pricey, but you do get what you pay for. There's a guy on eBay who has good deals on new B&C drivers, so I was able to pick up a pair of the 10NW64's for just under 300 bucks with shipping. The Usher 9950 go on sale at Parts Express periodically for $39 ea. They are great drivers as well. There are also a few other B&C 10" woofers with slightly less excursion at a lower cost. They would probably work if you're not trying to hit concert levels.
The crossover components are all pretty standard, and no one item is all that expensive. The inductors are air core and the caps are metallized polypropylene, again pretty typical. If I have time, I'll draw the schematic and post it. Depending on how thrifty you are, you can build a pair with drivers, baffles and crossovers for around $450.
