Ultimate <$200 Bookshelf help

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nervous about cutting up a brand new driver? yes
still want to do it anyway? yes :D

I'm not actually putting these on a bookshelf, its just I need something fairly compact (no floorstanders) for sitting on a desk...

that just got me thinking, what about a tiny little 3" full range or something, with a sub to back up the low end?
 
Re: chrisb...

Nanook said:
er...was it this something like the attached image? :) oopps sorry for the confusion chris--I guess I view you and Dave as one (incorrectly of course).:scratch:


spots25:, I only suggested getting phase plugs and drivers from planet10 because, if you are nervous peeling away the dust cap, he could do it for you..not that you or your friend couldn't manage to make the phase plugs, more so if concerned about cutting a brand new driver..


IIRC, the 167 boxes pictured in Dave's post above were based on Fostex's factory recommended BR enclosure, modified to GR dimensions with offset driver, rear port and probably driver brace. They were built mostly as POC (proof of concept), and I'm not even sure if we still have drivers in them.

When one of us as a fulltime day-job, it's hard to make time to listen extensively and compare the wide variety of prototypes that spring from the fertile collective mind of the Planet10 "hive".
 
spots25 said:
nervous about cutting up a brand new driver? yes
still want to do it anyway? yes :D

I'm not actually putting these on a bookshelf, its just I need something fairly compact (no floorstanders) for sitting on a desk...

that just got me thinking, what about a tiny little 3" full range or something, with a sub to back up the low end?


Already on the drawing board, (just not built yet) and wouldn't you know it, with Fostex drivers.


Regardless of brand of drivers and which design you choose, the only question would be - if these will be near a computer monitor, will it be CRT or LCD? The non-shielded magnets on even many 3" drivers will play absolute havoc with the former.

At lower sensitivity, the (shielded) CSS FR125 in a small aperiodically vented box are quite a performer.
 
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Re: chrisb...

Nanook said:
I guess I view you and Dave as one

There is no question of a symbiotic relationship... the match is much greater than the sum of the parts -- when i've got them done i'll show you pics of my blue & yellows with the leopard spot finish and you'll see why (and those wouldn't be half of what they are without Chris kindly doing the baffle for them.

dave
 
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Re: Re: chrisb...

chrisb said:
IIRC, the 167 boxes pictured in Dave's post above were based on Fostex's factory recommended BR enclosure, modified to GR dimensions with offset driver, rear port and probably driver brace. They were built mostly as POC (proof of concept), and I'm not even sure if we still have drivers in them.

They don't currently have a set of drivers in them (i do have a spare set of FE167s, but don't really need another set of speakers in the LR at the moment). And it turns out plans were never drawn... Chris supplied this pic of the inside of the quick & nasty temp box before i was able to draw the box.

As Chris says based on the Fostex FE167 factory box with a 1/2" longer port (2" ID x 2.5" long)

Internal dimsions are easy to figure... take 15 litres, add a bit for drivers & braces (say 1/2 litre), then take the cube root of 15.500 cm^3 = ~25 cm

take 25/1.62 = 15.5
take 25*1.62 = 40.5

there you have the internal dimensions 15.5x25x40.5 cm.

dave
 

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chrisb said:
Already on the drawing board, (just not built yet) and wouldn't you know it, with Fostex drivers.

IMHO you would be miles ahead with a small sat + woofer. Something much easier to grow. We have a 4.5 liter miniFonken using the FE127 and a 2 litre microFonken using the FF85 in the works (the FF85 will drive a CRT nuts)

dave
 

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i'm very very interested in the mini and micro fonkens (more so in the mini), combined with a sub. I'd rather like to build a ripole sub, but thats another thread for another day...

I don't forsee them being near a CRT, but i'm a little disappointed in that FF85's efficiency. 4.5 liters would be about perfect. Do you have cabinet plans for that?
 
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The miniOnken uses the FE127 so is both shielded and the same efficiency as a full-size Fonken. Size-wise it is targeted at the LS3/5A -- when we get one made we will do a compare, a recent LS3/5A vrs Fonken had the BBC box dragging its boxy butt home.

Only the microOnken uses the FF85... that is the only 3" i've found that can get fairly low in the bass without being miserably efficeint (ie the Aura NS3) ... the other Fostex 3" actually needed as big a box as the FE127.

The plans are not released yet. As a commercial P10 product we don't release plans until we are happy that they work well.

If you email me i will send you the pre-cursor design (also untested, but a mule so i'm not as protective)

dave
 
well yes...

if 58 watts divided between 2 channels, then 29 each (not including the sub), or whatever Logitech has provided you with. If using as computer monitor speakers, then listening distance would always be at 1 metre or less. Even inefficient speakers can be driven at what I would consider to be way too loud to listen for any extended periods.

eg acoustic decibels:

db= reference dB + 20*log(p2/p1)

if reference efficiency=85 dB, P1=1watt , p2=20 watts, the dB=111 dB, quite a loud level. similar to power tools at 1 metre

now, if reference efficiency is 10 dB greater at 95 dB , all else being equal, results in dB=121dB, similar to a pneumatic jackhammer at 1metre, or the sound of jet engines at about 100 metres

10dB is "percieved" as twice as loud. And remember that if 2 loudspeakers driven then a 3dB boost as well. So the levels will be 114dB and 124dB respectfully. 125 dB is the threshold of physical pain,and a single exposure can damage your hearing permanently.

Listening to either at full tilt can damage your hearing permanently if exposed to even short periods of time( a single exposure at 125 db or an exposure of less than 15 mins a day for the lower level, based on OSHA's safety guidelines)
 
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spots25 said:

Computer speaker watts... you should check to see what chip they are using and what the rail voltage is, then look it up... i'm going to take a shot and suggest that this probably means ~14W/channel into 8 ohms and half that if the 58W includes the woofer amp. Still lots of power to drive you out the room with the FE167e, and even play plenty loud with the less efficient FE127e... matter of fact that is the same set-up we were running at the shop for a while... appleTV into logitech woofer, with sats replaced with Fonkens.

dave
 
spots25 said:
I am actually curious about the actual power output, but it does claim 450W RMS out output (54 x 4 and 188 to the sub)

obviously I wouldn't be listening to any of this at full tilt, but having a little overhead never hurt anyone


450 Watt's my butt. 450 watts is alot of power for computer speakers, you couldn't even listen to that much power let alone use it. It's all sales number to tell the custome WOOOO LOOK 10,000 watt computer speakers meanwhile you open the plastic case and see a small 9V Intergrated chip with a 350Milliamp power adapter..
 
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shallbehealed said:
Any update on this? I've noticed that it hasn't "made the site" does that mean it didn't test as well as it modelled?

I had to go back & figure out which speaker... Demetri.

It is up http://planet10-hifi.com/boxes-fostex.html#demetri

The 167 build turned out quite well. It wants a pretty big room and (i'm guessing) will benefit from box EnABLEing. This was one of the hits of the summer's diyFEST.

With the 167 the box looks a bit ungainly (big box -- little driver), but sounds well. We are next going to rejig the same box for FE207 (+ FT17). I fully expect this box to rock.

dave
 
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