Also very important is to cool the T0 220 regs dedicated to the uC board supply. They get hot, having to drop Trafo voltage to 9V.
If they go too hot they will shut off and uC and display won't work any more.
So HS (small one is enough) or use bottom plate of chassis to dissipate the heat (in that case don't forget to isolate socket of REG with mica sheet or so, otherwise you will get GRD loop)
Cheers
Manu
If they go too hot they will shut off and uC and display won't work any more.
So HS (small one is enough) or use bottom plate of chassis to dissipate the heat (in that case don't forget to isolate socket of REG with mica sheet or so, otherwise you will get GRD loop)
Cheers
Manu
Hi all,
The regs have a thermal shutdown @ 125°C junction temp.
That temp is easilly reached without heatsinking, and for good long term reliability, try to control that temp to less than 60°C.
In my case, the regs are screwed on the HiFi2000 bottom plate with electrical isolation. And it's steel plate with paint on it, so not an low °C/W ratio
Remember that the UGS modules are always powered (no warmup time and little power used) so remember to have little vents in the case (nothing important because not a high power level and to control temp drift).
The regs have a thermal shutdown @ 125°C junction temp.
That temp is easilly reached without heatsinking, and for good long term reliability, try to control that temp to less than 60°C.
In my case, the regs are screwed on the HiFi2000 bottom plate with electrical isolation. And it's steel plate with paint on it, so not an low °C/W ratio
Remember that the UGS modules are always powered (no warmup time and little power used) so remember to have little vents in the case (nothing important because not a high power level and to control temp drift).
News for Nerds :
Software version 2.00
Some rewriting undergone, with some minor additions.
- Adds volume trimming (+/-6dB) to each input, to ease A/B comparisons for instance : Input Settings -> Input N°X Settings -> Volume Trimming
- Allows to restore default "factory" settings, to save your settings (2 different memory locations) and to restore them.
- Adjust encoder sensivity for the use of different encoders, such as optical ones (Volume Settings -> Encoder Stepping)
- Pseudo-graphical volume display (more for programming fun than anything else )
Downloads:
ATmega64/CrystalFontz display
ATmega128/CrystalFontz display if any
ATmega64/Optrex display (Slim version)
Source files
Enjoy, and report bugs, please
Cheers
Software version 2.00
Some rewriting undergone, with some minor additions.
- Adds volume trimming (+/-6dB) to each input, to ease A/B comparisons for instance : Input Settings -> Input N°X Settings -> Volume Trimming
- Allows to restore default "factory" settings, to save your settings (2 different memory locations) and to restore them.
- Adjust encoder sensivity for the use of different encoders, such as optical ones (Volume Settings -> Encoder Stepping)
- Pseudo-graphical volume display (more for programming fun than anything else
)Downloads:
ATmega64/CrystalFontz display
ATmega128/CrystalFontz display if any
ATmega64/Optrex display (Slim version)
Source files
Enjoy, and report bugs, please
Cheers
Hi all,
Thanks Cheff, version 2 completely cured those inputs switching glitches i had with the remote....seems i wasn´t imagining things after all ( timing issue ? ).
This project has an amazing support.
........got my front face plate buttons from Scoutone today as well, now all falls in place, i'm on the last leg.
I can imagine the box closed.
Will send you guys the pictures ofcourse.
Thanks Cheff, version 2 completely cured those inputs switching glitches i had with the remote....seems i wasn´t imagining things after all ( timing issue ? ).
This project has an amazing support.
........got my front face plate buttons from Scoutone today as well, now all falls in place, i'm on the last leg.
I can imagine the box closed.
Will send you guys the pictures ofcourse.
I now have all the parts on the boards except for some resistors on the uC. I just need to make some cables and I can plug it all together.
Are the following resistors valid for all possibilities?
R LED ON = 1k
R LED STB = 47k
R+RL = 22k
R-BL = 9.31k
RE BL = 10R
I have the Optrex display. Will this just slot straight into the uC, matching pin numbers?
cheers
Aidan
Are the following resistors valid for all possibilities?
R LED ON = 1k
R LED STB = 47k
R+RL = 22k
R-BL = 9.31k
RE BL = 10R
I have the Optrex display. Will this just slot straight into the uC, matching pin numbers?
cheers
Aidan
For the optrex display, that's what I have :
RBL+=12K7
RBL-=3K92
ReBL=100R
Depending on the uC board you have :
* The real "Optrex" board (slim) :
all is straightfoward, plug all and it'll work.
* The "Crystalfontz board" :
- The TO220 BJT (TIP29C or MJE15030) must not be mounted, only the BC550C, and short the "B" pad with the "E" pad of the TO220 BJT (refer to http://psykok.homelinux.org/diy/preamp_ugs/Atours/Atours.pdf)
- The LCB pinouts are different : you must shift the LCD connector one row to match the pins
Crystal -> Optrex
1 -> 3
2 -> 4
3 -> 5
4 -> 6
5 -> 7
6 -> 8
7 -> 9
8 -> 10
9 -> 11
10 -> 12
11 -> 13
12 -> 14
13 -> 15
14 -> 16
15 -> 1
16 -> 2
So you'll have to make a wire connection to join the first two pins of optrex (backlight) to the last two of Crystalfontz
http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/2002l/datasheets/338/CFAH2002LTMIET.pdf
http://www.optrex.com/SiteImages/PartList/SPEC/C-51505NFQJ-LB-AJN_Eng.pdf
Hope this helps
Cheers
RBL+=12K7
RBL-=3K92
ReBL=100R
Depending on the uC board you have :
* The real "Optrex" board (slim) :
all is straightfoward, plug all and it'll work.
* The "Crystalfontz board" :
- The TO220 BJT (TIP29C or MJE15030) must not be mounted, only the BC550C, and short the "B" pad with the "E" pad of the TO220 BJT (refer to http://psykok.homelinux.org/diy/preamp_ugs/Atours/Atours.pdf)
- The LCB pinouts are different : you must shift the LCD connector one row to match the pins
Crystal -> Optrex
1 -> 3
2 -> 4
3 -> 5
4 -> 6
5 -> 7
6 -> 8
7 -> 9
8 -> 10
9 -> 11
10 -> 12
11 -> 13
12 -> 14
13 -> 15
14 -> 16
15 -> 1
16 -> 2
So you'll have to make a wire connection to join the first two pins of optrex (backlight) to the last two of Crystalfontz
http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/2002l/datasheets/338/CFAH2002LTMIET.pdf
http://www.optrex.com/SiteImages/PartList/SPEC/C-51505NFQJ-LB-AJN_Eng.pdf
Hope this helps
Cheers
I have now turned on the power and there seems to be correct voltages at the logic supply board.
I have also connected the logic and relay wires to uC and I hear the relay on the uC click when power is supplied.
So I have attached the prog board to my PC and to the uC (pin 1 matches both ends of the 10 way cable).
When I run Pony prog I get to the stage where the software tries to read from the uC. However, I get the response:
"Unknown device or device not found"
How should I proceed to debug this? Your help is greatly appreciated.
My DMM only has two AA batteries so I should be able to use it on the Atmeg 64.
I have also connected the logic and relay wires to uC and I hear the relay on the uC click when power is supplied.
So I have attached the prog board to my PC and to the uC (pin 1 matches both ends of the 10 way cable).
When I run Pony prog I get to the stage where the software tries to read from the uC. However, I get the response:
"Unknown device or device not found"
How should I proceed to debug this? Your help is greatly appreciated.
My DMM only has two AA batteries so I should be able to use it on the Atmeg 64.
It is likely that you have an issue with the ISP Prog board...
Did you check the prog board first before connecting it to the uC Board but just to the // port of your PC?
Manu
http://psykok.homelinux.org/diy/preamp_ugs/Atours/ISP/PonyProg.pdf
Did you check the prog board first before connecting it to the uC Board but just to the // port of your PC?
Manu
http://psykok.homelinux.org/diy/preamp_ugs/Atours/ISP/PonyProg.pdf
Practical questions for UGS design
I'm planning on building a ugs and would like to ask a few questions which I haven't found answers for: Here goes. . .
1. Let's assume I'm not willing to buy some 2sk389 and 2sj109 at today's market prices. I would like to use two 2sk170 and two 2sj74: What consequence does this have on the circuit? I know I would have to match them, but if matched reasonably well, would there be a subjective difference in sonic performance? What if I don't match them? the circuit still works but with more relative/absolute offset problems, right?
2. input or output attenuation? There doesn't seem to be a consensus on this issue. I've always felt output attenuation was the way to go in order attenuate output noise as well. But if output noise isn't apparent at normal levels with input attenuation, the ugs sees a constant output impedence and the power amp input sees a constant impedence as well. Please debate. . .(btw, I will be using my homemade Aleph-x clones with 20k input impedance.)
3. Is heatsinking an absloute requirement for the UGS, or is just to help stability issues? I would like to protype the circuit without heatsinking in order to experiment. Just trying to avoid the magic blue smoke.
4. Power supply. Some have used "pearl" type regulation. Is this overkill or is the "blzs" type sufficient?
I hope to start in on this project after finals next week and get it done before the spring semester starts. Thanks.
I'm planning on building a ugs and would like to ask a few questions which I haven't found answers for: Here goes. . .
1. Let's assume I'm not willing to buy some 2sk389 and 2sj109 at today's market prices. I would like to use two 2sk170 and two 2sj74: What consequence does this have on the circuit? I know I would have to match them, but if matched reasonably well, would there be a subjective difference in sonic performance? What if I don't match them? the circuit still works but with more relative/absolute offset problems, right?
2. input or output attenuation? There doesn't seem to be a consensus on this issue. I've always felt output attenuation was the way to go in order attenuate output noise as well. But if output noise isn't apparent at normal levels with input attenuation, the ugs sees a constant output impedence and the power amp input sees a constant impedence as well. Please debate. . .(btw, I will be using my homemade Aleph-x clones with 20k input impedance.)
3. Is heatsinking an absloute requirement for the UGS, or is just to help stability issues? I would like to protype the circuit without heatsinking in order to experiment. Just trying to avoid the magic blue smoke.
4. Power supply. Some have used "pearl" type regulation. Is this overkill or is the "blzs" type sufficient?
I hope to start in on this project after finals next week and get it done before the spring semester starts. Thanks.