If you use a zobel as suggested, you can use 8 ohms for the woofer as well:
TA Speaker Topics - Neutralizing L(e) with a Zobel
(This may also help with any peaks the woofer has above the xover point)
TA Speaker Topics - Neutralizing L(e) with a Zobel
(This may also help with any peaks the woofer has above the xover point)
Designing great passive crossover takes a lot of experience and time. But I don't know that "great" is called for here. We can certainly come up with something better than Boscoe now has and should work just fine. He might even learn something in the process.
Active crossovers are cool, I use them. But for a simple 2-way box? I wouldn't bother.
No real quibble about that, but a two-way system does put the crossover point right smack where you shouldn't have it. With 3-way, you buy a reasonably priced quality middle driver and the top and bottom-end drivers just add flavor (important flavor, of course). Making a mess in the crossovers with 3-way are a lot less detectable and so likely wouldn't need as much fine-tuning when done.
So, unless you have a lot of Black Art in your kit for a two-way system, electronic crossover or 3-way make more sense.
I am assuming it is dirt cheap to buy a second-hand stereo amp where you live.
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Have you tried the "Passive Crossover Designer" , AKA "PCD" by Jeff Bagby? I could not live without it. A real Wiz of a program. Jeff should get a medal.
Sometimes I also run sims in Microcap, which is a Spice clone. Good for oddball topologies not covered in PCB.
I just got tired of the active multi-amp set up. Passive is so much more convenient. No extra interconnects, speaker wires, crossover boxes, level setting etc. For the ultimate system, yeah maybe. For a good functional speaker, naw....
Sometimes I also run sims in Microcap, which is a Spice clone. Good for oddball topologies not covered in PCB.
I just got tired of the active multi-amp set up. Passive is so much more convenient. No extra interconnects, speaker wires, crossover boxes, level setting etc. For the ultimate system, yeah maybe. For a good functional speaker, naw....
Just looking at the freq response of these two drivers I would do it the other way around, the woofer has a lift in spl just after 2.5k so it wont rolloff there as sharp as you might think. I would cross the tweeter @ around 4.5-5k first order, and I think that tweeter will need padding or it will sound very bright.
Just a thought.
Mick.
Sorry if this was mentioned already in any other threads of yours.
Don't forget the BSC shelving. Most calculators use text book filter coefficients and don't account for loss of low frequencies due to the baffle. Then as mentioned the tweeter level must be attenuated even further yet to match amount the of added BSC shelving.
Don't forget the BSC shelving. Most calculators use text book filter coefficients and don't account for loss of low frequencies due to the baffle. Then as mentioned the tweeter level must be attenuated even further yet to match amount the of added BSC shelving.
A first crossover
Well going by the published spec of these 2 Monacor drivers here is a crossover that should get you very close.
It's 2nd order LR, 2500Hz. You'll see a Zobel network on the woofer and an L-Pad (the 2 resistors) on the tweeter. The tweeter is reverse polarity.
Note the slightly dropping response. That is on purpose and should should smoother than a strictly flat response. This isn't the best crossover you'll ever get, but it should be a great start. Much better than what you have now.
Well going by the published spec of these 2 Monacor drivers here is a crossover that should get you very close.
It's 2nd order LR, 2500Hz. You'll see a Zobel network on the woofer and an L-Pad (the 2 resistors) on the tweeter. The tweeter is reverse polarity.
Note the slightly dropping response. That is on purpose and should should smoother than a strictly flat response. This isn't the best crossover you'll ever get, but it should be a great start. Much better than what you have now.
Attachments
Thanks a lot this is real help, I'll order the components next month then I'll let you know the results.
EDIT: Sorry what sort of wattage do these resistors need to be pano and will they take any power away from the speakers? Not that it matters the quality is what I'm after! Again thanks
EDIT: Sorry what sort of wattage do these resistors need to be pano and will they take any power away from the speakers? Not that it matters the quality is what I'm after! Again thanks
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You will be considered a detractor (by some forum members standards). What do you think of the difference of the tweeter padded (passive) and active driven. Which one is better for you?
Hey Boscoe. You can use standard 10W resistors that are made for crossovers. Yes, they will take away a little power, but that's what you want. =) You'll end up with a nicely balanced sound for the loss of a watt or 2. That's a great trade off.
Inductor. Don't want to turn this thread into an active vs passive x-over debate. I've used both for years. Used to think only active could really be top notch, but learned otherwise. It's a journey.
Inductor. Don't want to turn this thread into an active vs passive x-over debate. I've used both for years. Used to think only active could really be top notch, but learned otherwise. It's a journey.
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