The BIB is also a horn actually.
Chalk and cheese; it's difficult to compare them, as they offer different things. The BIB has more extension, and allows the driver to articulate very well. However, it's tall, and needs wall / corner loading to work properly. The 208 cabinet doesn't offer as much extension (nothing else does), but has a smoother response (the BIB isn't anything like as bad as the graphs suggest, but it's not a mini-monitor either), and is smaller. Plenty of weight in the low registers to a little below 40Hz. I've heard plenty of BIBs, including a 206 based one, and the 208 in the sigma horn, so I know the character of the cabinets quite well. I like both, though the BIB will always be my favourite as I've put quite a lot of time into these boxes as you probably know. If you've got the necessary wall then either will serve you well, though if you like the aesthetics of the BIB and want to know just how much LF an FR dribver can provide, then I'd go with that. If you don't have the walls, or you can't cope with a 7 ft cabinet, I'd go for the sigma.
Chalk and cheese; it's difficult to compare them, as they offer different things. The BIB has more extension, and allows the driver to articulate very well. However, it's tall, and needs wall / corner loading to work properly. The 208 cabinet doesn't offer as much extension (nothing else does), but has a smoother response (the BIB isn't anything like as bad as the graphs suggest, but it's not a mini-monitor either), and is smaller. Plenty of weight in the low registers to a little below 40Hz. I've heard plenty of BIBs, including a 206 based one, and the 208 in the sigma horn, so I know the character of the cabinets quite well. I like both, though the BIB will always be my favourite as I've put quite a lot of time into these boxes as you probably know. If you've got the necessary wall
I'm building the fe208e cabinet for the 206. I just commissioned the wood cutting and I'm waiting now.
It's the baltic birch plywood, it has a great look, a little bit expensive, a lot expensive I should say. But I wanted to make a cabinet that doesn't need any paint job. Is it good for this job? please tell me it's good...
And it was the only one in 18mm tickness, the other was the MDF in 19mm. I wanted to make the fe206e cabinet but I didn't found any 22mm wood so I gone with the fe208esigma.
PS
The laboratory of the craftsman is right in front of the RCF laudspeaker factory, do you know it?
It's the baltic birch plywood, it has a great look, a little bit expensive, a lot expensive I should say. But I wanted to make a cabinet that doesn't need any paint job. Is it good for this job? please tell me it's good...
And it was the only one in 18mm tickness, the other was the MDF in 19mm. I wanted to make the fe206e cabinet but I didn't found any 22mm wood so I gone with the fe208esigma.
PS
The laboratory of the craftsman is right in front of the RCF laudspeaker factory, do you know it?
Scottmoose, what is it that you don`t like about the Fostex recommended BLH for the Fe206E? I built a pair and use them for mains in a HT set up and I really like their sound. There is a sub rolling in at 80HZ so deep bass extension isn`t necessary, but they have a wonderful tonal balance and when used for 2 channel music only they have a deep and wide sound stage. I don`t have as much expirience and knowledge as you and I value your opinion, whether it`s positive or negative. So even if you knock them, it won`t detract from my enjoyment with them. Thanks, NOXO.
Glad you likes yours -name of the game. Why am I not a fan? Well, I don't like the aesthetics much, though careful building obviously helps with that. There's a big suck-out from ~100 - 180Hz which I could clearly hear in the different pairs I've listened to, later supported by modelling the cabinet. On the up-side, this can be partially compensated for by reducing the chamber volume. Nor do they go as low as I personally like for horns with low Fs 8in drivers. Just my preference of course.
The 206ES-R cabinet is essentially a modified Nagaoka D-58 & is a pretty good design. The regular 206 should drop straight in it's magnet is plenty powerful enough to drive it. Might need a little chamber work though.
The 206ES-R cabinet is essentially a modified Nagaoka D-58 & is a pretty good design. The regular 206 should drop straight in it's magnet is plenty powerful enough to drive it. Might need a little chamber work though.
tomorrow I'm going to get the wod
I want to ask a thing about the project.
The side panels numbers 28 and 29 are inside, and the 27 is outside right? at least it looks like from the "TOP DETAILS" view of the PDF
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/208ez_enclrev.pdf
Any building tip?
I want to ask a thing about the project.
The side panels numbers 28 and 29 are inside, and the 27 is outside right? at least it looks like from the "TOP DETAILS" view of the PDF
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/208ez_enclrev.pdf
Any building tip?
double check the cut list
A few weeks ago I cut material for a buddy's 206ESR's, and there was at least one discrepancy between the sheet layout drawings and the summarized parts list.
With 34 individual pieces per cabinet, many of which are close in size, it can get very confusing when parts don't match both the drawing and the list.
A few weeks ago I cut material for a buddy's 206ESR's, and there was at least one discrepancy between the sheet layout drawings and the summarized parts list.
With 34 individual pieces per cabinet, many of which are close in size, it can get very confusing when parts don't match both the drawing and the list.
I almost finished building
I have a question:
If I put the blinding post on the rear panel like in the fostex project perhaps I will not be able to detach the driver anymore without cutting the cable because I soldered the cable to the speaker and putting the hand on the rear wall through the pipe maybe possible but without a tool to unscrew.
So I can put them on the top, it isn't nice to see but it works
I have a question:
If I put the blinding post on the rear panel like in the fostex project perhaps I will not be able to detach the driver anymore without cutting the cable because I soldered the cable to the speaker and putting the hand on the rear wall through the pipe maybe possible but without a tool to unscrew.
So I can put them on the top, it isn't nice to see but it works
TA
TA TA
TA TA TAAAAAAAAN
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TA TA
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TA TA TAAAAAAAAN
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
it sound FANTASTIC!
All problems gone away!
Full mids
Now the voices are full and deep how they should be....
POWERFULL bass!
When I say powerfull I mean it goes deep into your stomac. And fast, now I know what do you mean.... deep and fast
No hard highs, it seems to me that they more quiet. But on this point i have to investigate more...
Relatively light enclosure, mdf is a lot heavier, but man this wood is so strong that to remove just 3 4mm of wood with the lapping machine with roughest paper it can take 20min of work.
WOOOOW
And just with one spaker I don't miss anything.....
PS
I'm using my amp in mono setting (there's a switch on rear panel) but if I have a normal stereo how I get all channel with one speaker?
All problems gone away!
Full mids
Now the voices are full and deep how they should be....
POWERFULL bass!
When I say powerfull I mean it goes deep into your stomac. And fast, now I know what do you mean.... deep and fast
No hard highs, it seems to me that they more quiet. But on this point i have to investigate more...
Relatively light enclosure, mdf is a lot heavier, but man this wood is so strong that to remove just 3 4mm of wood with the lapping machine with roughest paper it can take 20min of work.
WOOOOW
And just with one spaker I don't miss anything.....
PS
I'm using my amp in mono setting (there's a switch on rear panel) but if I have a normal stereo how I get all channel with one speaker?
I'm surprised that they go that low, I tried with a test cd (made using goldwave) and I can hear until 30hz signal with more volume than with sub.
It's simply amazing!
PS
In the project I see they put some layer of sound absorbing material behind the driver and on the bottom of the horn, why?
It's simply amazing!
PS
In the project I see they put some layer of sound absorbing material behind the driver and on the bottom of the horn, why?
I can't believe my ears....
I said I could here until 30hz, no that's wrong it's 20hz!
Because yesterday when I did the test it was at low volume but today at middle/high volume I can hear 20hz signal, it's low but it can be heard
Listening to classical music and feel the stomac vibrating it's incredible...
I said I could here until 30hz, no that's wrong it's 20hz!
Because yesterday when I did the test it was at low volume but today at middle/high volume I can hear 20hz signal, it's low but it can be heard
Listening to classical music and feel the stomac vibrating it's incredible...
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.