Kooka said:
They're open. I just left the jumpers hanging on one pin so I don't loose them.
It should work. If you think you'll stick with NOS you might want to remove the SAA7220 chip as it shares the same power supply as the clock and input receiver.
I just had a hour and a half listening session and I'm amazed by the ability of this DAC to resolve detail, yet it sounds very smooth and musical. It's really good. I think this op-amps are very good too, but I'll try different ones in the future, there are so many options...
I still have to play with all settings and hear what's best in my system...
hi Julien_M,
your message.
Another thing I did was to replace the 3 caps (C5, C6, and C8) at the digital input before the CS8414/CS8412 receiver with jumpers. These caps are not really needed since there's a transformer already. These are only to offer extra protection for the input chip against DC voltages (in case of an accident). Since there is no DC in an S/PDIF signal, they can be bypassed.
Hi Julien,
U can remove the protect DC caps. Bucause most Cd transport also had capacitor coupling( block the DC) for the Digital out.
If totally two caps between transport & DAC. probably will effect little of the sonic( by jitter). But I am not sure.
I use protect caps because I am not sure all the CDP or CD-Rom all had caps on te output tips( RCA ) to block the DC or not!
If U make sure that your transport had caps to block the DC. U can remove for it.
Julien, many thanks for your support!
thx
thomas
your message.
Another thing I did was to replace the 3 caps (C5, C6, and C8) at the digital input before the CS8414/CS8412 receiver with jumpers. These caps are not really needed since there's a transformer already. These are only to offer extra protection for the input chip against DC voltages (in case of an accident). Since there is no DC in an S/PDIF signal, they can be bypassed.
Hi Julien,
U can remove the protect DC caps. Bucause most Cd transport also had capacitor coupling( block the DC) for the Digital out.
If totally two caps between transport & DAC. probably will effect little of the sonic( by jitter). But I am not sure.
I use protect caps because I am not sure all the CDP or CD-Rom all had caps on te output tips( RCA ) to block the DC or not!
If U make sure that your transport had caps to block the DC. U can remove for it.
Julien, many thanks for your support!
thx
thomas
hi all,
I will prepare two new items.
1. DIR9001 digital receiver ( low jitter than 8414/8412 IS) to upgrade. performance will better than old 8414/8412-IS.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=110738
http://focus.tij.co.jp/jp/docs/prod/folders/print/dir9001.html
it will funish, test & can directly plug & use original 8414/8412-IS socket.
2. I will prepare Tube buffer PCB.
Diyers who bought kit with tube buffer will free to get one. But need to pay postage!
thx
thomas
I will prepare two new items.
1. DIR9001 digital receiver ( low jitter than 8414/8412 IS) to upgrade. performance will better than old 8414/8412-IS.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=110738
http://focus.tij.co.jp/jp/docs/prod/folders/print/dir9001.html
it will funish, test & can directly plug & use original 8414/8412-IS socket.
2. I will prepare Tube buffer PCB.
Diyers who bought kit with tube buffer will free to get one. But need to pay postage!
thx
thomas
tube-lover said:
Hi Thomas, I am in the list for the tube buffer PCB's (I bought 2 tube buffers, as you maybe remember, so I will need 2 PCBs), please let me know how much I should send you (BTW, if you still did not send the MKP caps you promised, you could send together).
Thanks, please let me now, my friend.
hi kooka,
ok, two pcs PCB. U not need to pay PCB money to me.
only postage will enough.
this is offer to tube buffer buyers.
Kokka,
do know recently what I was doing???
I broken Kondo Ongaku ( for clone one to diyers).
Broken TAD exclusive 2402. USE 4001 horn driver, 1601a Alnioc woofer, 4001 horn mouth * cabinet. mainly was crossover.
I broken them to colect data already.
I will clone & test with original one.
thx
thomas
ok, two pcs PCB. U not need to pay PCB money to me.
only postage will enough.
this is offer to tube buffer buyers.
Kokka,
do know recently what I was doing???
I broken Kondo Ongaku ( for clone one to diyers).
Broken TAD exclusive 2402. USE 4001 horn driver, 1601a Alnioc woofer, 4001 horn mouth * cabinet. mainly was crossover.
I broken them to colect data already.
I will clone & test with original one.
thx
thomas
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
hi ggta,
your message.
have a full balanced kit version. For test I would like to use it in single ended mode. Is it possible to do so if I plug the "-" to the ground at the output of the I/V ?
.
can U share? in my set up. Balance better than SE.
But, if finally U like the SE version. remove the CPLD chips( module)
Remove one 1541a , se one OP-amp output will be OK.
op-amp output board. U will see L-E-R
E connect to two channel ground will OK.
thx'
thomas
your message.
have a full balanced kit version. For test I would like to use it in single ended mode. Is it possible to do so if I plug the "-" to the ground at the output of the I/V ?
.
can U share? in my set up. Balance better than SE.
But, if finally U like the SE version. remove the CPLD chips( module)
Remove one 1541a , se one OP-amp output will be OK.
op-amp output board. U will see L-E-R
E connect to two channel ground will OK.
thx'
thomas
tube-lover said:
Can you get 2nd hand TAD driver in HK? The new TAD are too expensive for DIY.
btw, did you saw this post. Is this what you planning to do?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=80068
hi samL,
done already.
now is clone the TH-4001 horn mouth ( use Canada maple Plywood ) Curve was according real TAd TH-4001 & clone for it.
In Hong Kong TAD 4001 still expensive. probably U can try to search in ebay. I can prepare Horn mouth for U, crossover too.
take a look for the broken 2402 & another A290 Solid fine ebony Horn mouth! THis horn mouth use C37 similar treatment & compare to original TH-4001.
mainly was crossover. I will considerate prepare Bitch plywood cabinet + maple Plywood TH-4001( clone ) horn mouth. probably 1601a or b I can get in hong kong. But still not cheap. but if post together will less postage!
see the photos, U will surprise.
what i do.
thx
thomas
done already.
now is clone the TH-4001 horn mouth ( use Canada maple Plywood ) Curve was according real TAd TH-4001 & clone for it.
In Hong Kong TAD 4001 still expensive. probably U can try to search in ebay. I can prepare Horn mouth for U, crossover too.
take a look for the broken 2402 & another A290 Solid fine ebony Horn mouth! THis horn mouth use C37 similar treatment & compare to original TH-4001.
mainly was crossover. I will considerate prepare Bitch plywood cabinet + maple Plywood TH-4001( clone ) horn mouth. probably 1601a or b I can get in hong kong. But still not cheap. but if post together will less postage!
see the photos, U will surprise.
what i do.
thx
thomas
Ops! I did get it wrong as the numbering on the transformer are not sequential. The diagrams on this web site will answer it all.
http://solderman.blogspot.com/2005/09/transformers-series-and-parallel.html
http://solderman.blogspot.com/2005/09/transformers-series-and-parallel.html
Well, I wire up the transformers, did a measurement to make sure it is working. Connect it to the PCB (with no source input), the red LED did not light up. Not sure what I have done wrongly.
The 15V transformer reading before connected to PCB. 15.9V (red) , 13V (black) and 15.87V (red). The 9V transformer reading before connected to PCB. 13.96V (red), 12.4V (black).
The 15V transformer reading before connected to PCB. 15.9V (red) , 13V (black) and 15.87V (red). The 9V transformer reading before connected to PCB. 13.96V (red), 12.4V (black).
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