Tube-lover SE and Full Balance TDA1541a DAC

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tube-lover said:
liquid nitrogen prepare for testing.

test 1.

rapid cooling from RCA & 6N copper wire from Room temperature to -196 degree by liquid nitrogen.

thx

thomas
132.jpg


Did u try cryo the tda1541 chip?:D
 
hi langtuhanoi ,


sure, U can.

hi commstech,

no I still not did cyro 1541a.

take a look for more photos of the cyro treatment RCA & 6N magnetic copper wire for all audio transformers kits coming.

I will test this cyro rca performance this several weeks.

if really test good. coming all kit will good offer to diyers.


thx

thomas

liquid nitrogen




164.jpg
 
Kooka said:


Hi Julien, can you tell me which values and voltages you used for the 3 BG caps? Are these the only 3 pcs you changed (beside the dieodes, actually)?


I'll get back to you later on this when I get home, I don't know the values by hart. So far, I've just used parts I happen to have.
Last night I changed a lot of things. A lot of caps and some minor circuit changes.
I still don't know if it was worth the effort, I'll post my findings with pictures and parts soon (probably over the weekend).
One thing I highly recommend is to replace the coupling caps in the buffer boards with film caps. I'm using 4uF Auricaps I happened to have.
I'm also using a double crown DAC chip.

PS: I still can't figure out how to turn off the re-clock and have the receiver lock on the signal...
 
Julien_M said:



I'll get back to you later on this when I get home, I don't know the values by hart. So far, I've just used parts I happen to have.
Last night I changed a lot of things. A lot of caps and some minor circuit changes.
I still don't know if it was worth the effort, I'll post my findings with pictures and parts soon (probably over the weekend).
One thing I highly recommend is to replace the coupling caps in the buffer boards with film caps. I'm using 4uF Auricaps I happened to have.
I'm also using a double crown DAC chip.

PS: I still can't figure out how to turn off the re-clock and have the receiver lock on the signal...
Great, thanks, I wait for more details on these values, and other changes you made.
 
tube-lover said:
hi Julien_M,


there had three mode can setting in the dac.

which one U like.

1. NOS ( default) 7220 & re-clock.

2. 1541+ re-clock

3. 1541+7220+re-clock.

& U can use I2s input, bypass the 8412-Is.

thx

thomas

Can I have NOS 7220 less re-clock? I'd like to use the DAC with 16/48 sources like DVD movies. Is this possible?
Could you explain all 3 sets? 1, 2 and 3.

Thanks
 
Julien_M said:



I'll get back to you later on this when I get home, I don't know the values by hart. So far, I've just used parts I happen to have.
Last night I changed a lot of things. A lot of caps and some minor circuit changes.
I still don't know if it was worth the effort, I'll post my findings with pictures and parts soon (probably over the weekend).
One thing I highly recommend is to replace the coupling caps in the buffer boards with film caps. I'm using 4uF Auricaps I happened to have.
I'm also using a double crown DAC chip.

PS: I still can't figure out how to turn off the re-clock and have the receiver lock on the signal...

Julien, no way to have those values and other changes posted..?
:xeye:
 
Kooka said:


Julien, no way to have those values and other changes posted..?
:xeye:

I'll post the info soon. I have to test these parts and tweaks before I can recommend anything.

The 3 main BG caps I'm using now are 2x 1000uF/25V BG Standard for the 15VAC section and 1x 1000uF/16V BG FK for the 9VAC one. You can use higher capacitance if you like, I just happened to have these parts arround.

I also figured all the DAC settings. There are 4 options for the SE version: NOS, NOS + re-clock, OS, and OS + re-clock. I'll post all settings soon.

Sonicaly, the DAC now is excellent. There are still parts breaking-in but I hear very little coloration or distortion of any kind. I did replace the op-amps as well and removed some caps not needed at the digital input.

I measured 130mA consuption at 120VAC. I think a 250A fast blow fuse for the SE DAC should be safe to use.


PS: I'm not responsible for this DAC design and any changes one makes are at ones own risk. These is just my experience and opinion, not the absolute truth.
 
Julien_M said:


I'll post the info soon. I have to test these parts and tweaks before I can recommend anything.

The 3 main BG caps I'm using now are 2x 1000uF/25V BG Standard for the 15VAC section and 1x 1000uF/16V BG FK for the 9VAC one. You can use higher capacitance if you like, I just happened to have these parts arround.

I also figured all the DAC settings. There are 4 options for the SE version: NOS, NOS + re-clock, OS, and OS + re-clock. I'll post all settings soon.

Sonicaly, the DAC now is excellent. There are still parts breaking-in but I hear very little coloration or distortion of any kind. I did replace the op-amps as well and removed some caps not needed at the digital input.

I measured 130mA consuption at 120VAC. I think a 250A fast blow fuse for the SE DAC should be safe to use.


PS: I'm not responsible for this DAC design and any changes one makes are at ones own risk. These is just my experience and opinion, not the absolute truth.

I don't know if the 3 BG caps on the ps boards would give any advantage upon the Elna original ones, but I'm sure some tests on the coupling caps of the output board could be very interesting (some Wima MKP's are going on mine, as an example).

A 250A fuse is probably a little oversized, i guess... ;)
 
Here are the settings for the digital input/re-clock/oversampling board. The SE DAC can operate in 4 different modes. I've tested all these 4 settings with my SE DAC and they all worked. The default setting on mine was 4x OS + re-clock. When the re-clock circuit is ON only 16bit/44.1MHz sources work well as this is a fixed clock.

NOS (no re-clock):

J3: open
J4: open
J6: open
J7: open

S3: all OFF
S7: all OFF
S8: all ON

S1: ON-OFF-ON-ON


NOS + re-clock:

J3: open
J4: open
J6: short
J7: short

S3: all OFF
S7: all OFF
S8: all ON

S1: OFF-OFF-ON-ON


4x OS (no re-clock):

J3: short
J4: open
J6: open
J7: open

S3: all ON
S7: all ON
S8: all OFF

S1: ON-OFF-ON-ON


4x OS + re-clock (default) :

J3: open
J4: short
J6: short
J7: short

S3: all ON
S7: all ON
S8: all OFF


S1: OFF-OFF-ON-ON



I'm attaching a picture of my input board in NOS mode for reference. That's how I have it now.
 

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Kooka said:


I don't know if the 3 BG caps on the ps boards would give any advantage upon the Elna original ones, but I'm sure some tests on the coupling caps of the output board could be very interesting (some Wima MKP's are going on mine, as an example).

A 250A fuse is probably a little oversized, i guess... ;)

Caps are a very personal choice. I like BG in power supplies very much, once they're properly broken-in they sound very transparent and dynamic in my opinion.

I measured less than 2 mV DC at the output of the op-amp board, so I decided to bypass the output caps all together. I'm using the new National LME49710 single op-amp with very good results. They seem very stable, I didn't feel the need to use a small cap across the + and - with them.
I guess BB OPA134 would probably work well in this circuit too. Picture attached (still with Auricaps on).

Another thing I did was to replace the 3 caps (C5, C6, and C8) at the digital input before the CS8414/CS8412 receiver with jumpers. These caps are not really needed since there's a transformer already. These are only to offer extra protection for the input chip against DC voltages (in case of an accident). Since there is no DC in an S/PDIF signal, they can be bypassed.
 

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Julien_M said:
Here are the settings for the digital input/re-clock/oversampling board. The SE DAC can operate in 4 different modes. I've tested all these 4 settings with my SE DAC and they all worked. The default setting on mine was 4x OS + re-clock. When the re-clock circuit is ON only 16bit/44.1MHz sources work well as this is a fixed clock.

NOS (no re-clock):

J3: open
J4: open
J6: open
J7: open

S3: all OFF
S7: all OFF
S8: all ON

S1: ON-OFF-ON-ON


NOS + re-clock:

J3: open
J4: open
J6: short
J7: short

S3: all OFF
S7: all OFF
S8: all ON

S1: OFF-OFF-ON-ON


4x OS (no re-clock):

J3: short
J4: open
J6: open
J7: open

S3: all ON
S7: all ON
S8: all OFF

S1: ON-OFF-ON-ON


4x OS + re-clock (default) :

J3: open
J4: short
J6: short
J7: short

S3: all ON
S7: all ON
S8: all OFF


S1: OFF-OFF-ON-ON



I'm attaching a picture of my input board in NOS mode for reference. That's how I have it now.


Hi Julien, your settings are based on the use of the 4 opamps board. Ok. Are the same settings valid for the 2 opamps board? I ask this because my default settings are different, in the 2 opamps board I am using.
As an example, my J6 and J7 sockets are not shortened as you say "default setting"...
 
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