Theory of Operation
Demian or Richard,
When you get the chance could you clear up the tehroy of operation for me. I'm struggling with understanding how the MKII7000 actually operates.
I understand about the checks it makes and that in the logic somewhere in there, it checks for circuit protection, voltage, wiring, ground faults, and over/under voltages, etc. before it switches the AC voltage pass through. It looks like the MJEs are switching supplies for the circuits brains and powering the Triacs, Opto couplers, and logic devices, etc. What else do the MJEs do? they do?
This whole things should just be coasting along very efficiently, still struggling with trying to figure out where all the current is consumed. I've got another little 0.1uf/275V cap with an intergral 470K bleeder incased within it, but wondering if that will screw things up.
Just thinking out loud here.
Demian or Richard,
When you get the chance could you clear up the tehroy of operation for me. I'm struggling with understanding how the MKII7000 actually operates.
I understand about the checks it makes and that in the logic somewhere in there, it checks for circuit protection, voltage, wiring, ground faults, and over/under voltages, etc. before it switches the AC voltage pass through. It looks like the MJEs are switching supplies for the circuits brains and powering the Triacs, Opto couplers, and logic devices, etc. What else do the MJEs do? they do?
This whole things should just be coasting along very efficiently, still struggling with trying to figure out where all the current is consumed. I've got another little 0.1uf/275V cap with an intergral 470K bleeder incased within it, but wondering if that will screw things up.
Just thinking out loud here.
Update
Further checks on the unit and replacing parts. Got some of the correct diodes in there now.
Removed the RF input choke because it kept having that burning smell. Also remeoved the remaining MOVs 5, 6, 7, 8. Then removed the relays so I could tell if it was any of those parts.
When I switch the power on from the variac and dialed it up ot 120V I had no current pulling on the unit.
Finally solved.
Further checks on the unit and replacing parts. Got some of the correct diodes in there now.
Removed the RF input choke because it kept having that burning smell. Also remeoved the remaining MOVs 5, 6, 7, 8. Then removed the relays so I could tell if it was any of those parts.
When I switch the power on from the variac and dialed it up ot 120V I had no current pulling on the unit.
Finally solved.
Richard, Thanks for the heads up. I guess then I got her working. I'll have to find another RF Input Choke as the other one is toast. And put all the components back in it and fire her back up. That T2 Board looks pretty bad now. Too many pads pulled up. Demian, you ever find that spare? Cheers,
Here is a picture of the -7000 on my work bench measuring a filter change.
Those transformers are very special and utilize triple shielding techniques which provide Ultra-Isolation. The OEM quantity cost was about $100 each (they passed UL tests as did the whole unit).
Use a #47 ferrite core of same size to replace the burnt input coil.
THx-RNMarsh
Those transformers are very special and utilize triple shielding techniques which provide Ultra-Isolation. The OEM quantity cost was about $100 each (they passed UL tests as did the whole unit).
Use a #47 ferrite core of same size to replace the burnt input coil.
THx-RNMarsh
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Good Pic
Richard, The 7000 Filter board looks good right at home there with all the other stuff. So what are you finding about the filter changes? What are you looking for? The transromers are definitely the same. I thought they looked pretty stout. On mine, the xfrms pull slightly different current. It didn't make a difference which xfrmr was powering which set of outlets. my front xfrmr pulled .7 amp and the rear transformer pulled .5 amp. I have to pull the filter board to put the LED board back in. Before I do that, I"ll put the two xfrmrs and clean them and the chassis mounting. Hopefully that will take care of the burn smell. I learned a few things working this too.
Richard, The 7000 Filter board looks good right at home there with all the other stuff. So what are you finding about the filter changes? What are you looking for? The transromers are definitely the same. I thought they looked pretty stout. On mine, the xfrms pull slightly different current. It didn't make a difference which xfrmr was powering which set of outlets. my front xfrmr pulled .7 amp and the rear transformer pulled .5 amp. I have to pull the filter board to put the LED board back in. Before I do that, I"ll put the two xfrmrs and clean them and the chassis mounting. Hopefully that will take care of the burn smell. I learned a few things working this too.
Oh,
If that was a while ago then I guess you can't plug it in and let me know what the current draw is.
That explains why the large current draw outlets 105, 106 are fed from J404 and J406, the first set of terminals where the amp and TV need to be connected too.
Then going though the isotransformers via J110, are 101, 102, 103, 104 each are fed differently outlets 101, 104 from one transformer, and 102, 103 from the other transformer.
I think I might have found the problem Richard.
If you say the Video/TV shouldn't run through the iso xfrms I've measured that it is fed from both transformers. Please verify this if you can.
I can't verify it because Mr. Sobswad hasn't sent me the rest of the scematics, I only got a partial schematic. I've been waiting for him to get back with me a week or two. I asked him to check with you first on this.
When a transformer is connected to J111, J113 on the filterboard I get the following measurements (measured across the 2M resistor before the relays: R101 128 VAC R102 ----- R103 ----- R104 124 VAC
When a transformer is connected to J112, J114 on the filterboard I get the following measurements: R101 128 VAC
R102 -----
R103 -----
R104 124 VAC
When a transformer is connected to J112, J114 on the filterboard I get the following measurements:
R101 ---
R102 127 VAC
R103 128 VAC
R104 124 VAC
Note: The 104 circuit is fed by both transformers? 104 is the Video/TV/Monitor/AV Receiver? Maybe that is where the current draw is coming from?
101 is the Audio Pre
102 Digital 1
103 Digital 2
104 Video TV AV Receiver
105 High Pwr 1
106 High Pwr 2
I might add the layout of the Filter Board is nicely done. It's not overly complex and it is very logical. Also the outlets are very good. NOTHING about this unit is half assed. I've spent enough time on this where I think I almost understand it.
I also like the design of the whole system the way each sub system is layed out, the protections designed into the various boards, how they are wired up.
As I wrote earlier, as screwed up as this was when I got it, I'm surprised that other things weren't completely lost and fried. I recall a post that you made before I found this as you said there isn't a lot that can go wrong with these. You and Demian did good.
Now, if I can just figure out this last little bit....
If that was a while ago then I guess you can't plug it in and let me know what the current draw is.
That explains why the large current draw outlets 105, 106 are fed from J404 and J406, the first set of terminals where the amp and TV need to be connected too.
Then going though the isotransformers via J110, are 101, 102, 103, 104 each are fed differently outlets 101, 104 from one transformer, and 102, 103 from the other transformer.
I think I might have found the problem Richard.
If you say the Video/TV shouldn't run through the iso xfrms I've measured that it is fed from both transformers. Please verify this if you can.
I can't verify it because Mr. Sobswad hasn't sent me the rest of the scematics, I only got a partial schematic. I've been waiting for him to get back with me a week or two. I asked him to check with you first on this.
When a transformer is connected to J111, J113 on the filterboard I get the following measurements (measured across the 2M resistor before the relays: R101 128 VAC R102 ----- R103 ----- R104 124 VAC
When a transformer is connected to J112, J114 on the filterboard I get the following measurements: R101 128 VAC
R102 -----
R103 -----
R104 124 VAC
When a transformer is connected to J112, J114 on the filterboard I get the following measurements:
R101 ---
R102 127 VAC
R103 128 VAC
R104 124 VAC
Note: The 104 circuit is fed by both transformers? 104 is the Video/TV/Monitor/AV Receiver? Maybe that is where the current draw is coming from?
101 is the Audio Pre
102 Digital 1
103 Digital 2
104 Video TV AV Receiver
105 High Pwr 1
106 High Pwr 2
I might add the layout of the Filter Board is nicely done. It's not overly complex and it is very logical. Also the outlets are very good. NOTHING about this unit is half assed. I've spent enough time on this where I think I almost understand it.
I also like the design of the whole system the way each sub system is layed out, the protections designed into the various boards, how they are wired up.
As I wrote earlier, as screwed up as this was when I got it, I'm surprised that other things weren't completely lost and fried. I recall a post that you made before I found this as you said there isn't a lot that can go wrong with these. You and Demian did good.
Now, if I can just figure out this last little bit....
One last thought...When the unit goes through its check and the main relay switches there is a large 2 amp spike in the unit. I was wondering if I could use something like a CL50 or CL 80 across the isolation transformer feed at at J402 and again at J110.
Yea,
Mr. Sobswad finally came through with the schematic. Okay, time to get busy
and get this thing back together....just a few more parts.
Thanks y'all.
Yea,
Mr. Sobswad finally came through with the schematic. Okay, time to get busy
and get this thing back together....just a few more parts.
Thanks y'all.
Demian,
Generally, the mfr doesnt give out other peoples design property. I saw and talked to Sobswad a few weeks ago in Bangkok. He asked me if it was OK. I told him, yes. But we dont want it broadcast all over the net.
All the authorized repair depots had access to/copies of the schematics. see Vern Smith about protecting Monster IP. Give info to Tony DiChiro to store info. Monster only has interest in current production designs for reapir purposes. Thus, they dont keep old stuff on file.
THx-RNMarsh
Generally, the mfr doesnt give out other peoples design property. I saw and talked to Sobswad a few weeks ago in Bangkok. He asked me if it was OK. I told him, yes. But we dont want it broadcast all over the net.
All the authorized repair depots had access to/copies of the schematics. see Vern Smith about protecting Monster IP. Give info to Tony DiChiro to store info. Monster only has interest in current production designs for reapir purposes. Thus, they dont keep old stuff on file.
THx-RNMarsh
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Hi Demian, or Richard,
Before buttoning her up. When I wire as specced I get the Hot Nuetral with the Sperry outlet checker, but only on the first three outlets, the digital ones.
When I reversed the Line and Nuetral wires on the board next to the sockets, same error on the outlet checker. Hot Nuetral wire.
?????
I have Red and Blue properly wired to the filter board. The Yellow and Brn wires are attached properly for each transformer. They are fed from the same AC lines from the T2 Power board. The TV socket and the two Hi power sockets I have the new RF choke installed and used new two new filter caps on the front end too. I've tried all manner of ways to wire it nothing seems to work.
Am I missing something here?
There is a Trimmer by the osc on the T2 board. What voltage should it be speced for to dial in? If 5 Volts, then where measured against? The 12K/1Watt resistor? What about on the LED board? To which Voltage to which component?
Cheers,
I'll post some pics when developed.
Strange though, outlets 4, 5, 6 are fine and with all correct polarity.
OR
Is the voltage running through the isolation transformers creating an inductance which tricks the Sperry continuity tester into thinking a hot nuetral.
OR
Has the insulation on the windings of the isolation transformers started to deterioriate where voltage is leaking to nuetral?
I've tested every way you can wire it up same results hot nuetral on 1, 2, 3 outlets.
Pics at 6 or 10.
Before buttoning her up. When I wire as specced I get the Hot Nuetral with the Sperry outlet checker, but only on the first three outlets, the digital ones.
When I reversed the Line and Nuetral wires on the board next to the sockets, same error on the outlet checker. Hot Nuetral wire.
?????
I have Red and Blue properly wired to the filter board. The Yellow and Brn wires are attached properly for each transformer. They are fed from the same AC lines from the T2 Power board. The TV socket and the two Hi power sockets I have the new RF choke installed and used new two new filter caps on the front end too. I've tried all manner of ways to wire it nothing seems to work.
Am I missing something here?
There is a Trimmer by the osc on the T2 board. What voltage should it be speced for to dial in? If 5 Volts, then where measured against? The 12K/1Watt resistor? What about on the LED board? To which Voltage to which component?
Cheers,
I'll post some pics when developed.
Strange though, outlets 4, 5, 6 are fine and with all correct polarity.
OR
Is the voltage running through the isolation transformers creating an inductance which tricks the Sperry continuity tester into thinking a hot nuetral.
OR
Has the insulation on the windings of the isolation transformers started to deterioriate where voltage is leaking to nuetral?
I've tested every way you can wire it up same results hot nuetral on 1, 2, 3 outlets.
Pics at 6 or 10.
The isolated outlets may not have a connection to ground. Depending on the version they could be balanced in which the center tap is grounded or the outlet is floating. In either case there is a GFCI on each isolated outlet for safety. Isolated or balanced will drive the normal grounding checker crazy. There may be a switch (some versions) that allow you to select isolated or grounded.
With the power disconnected you can check for connection from hot or neutral to ground.
With the power disconnected you can check for connection from hot or neutral to ground.
Geez, it would be easier to have film developed then fool around with all these cameras with battery life in the minutes. Even new batterys with expensive batteries, then the propriatary connections that Sony uses.
Trying to find the "right" usb wire that works.
Here is the wiring: The wires were moved to show how they are connected. Each yellow brown pair is properly wired even though it might look like one yellow goes to the opposite xfrms brown wire.
Here is the 3rd outlet: Note: 3rd and 2nd use same xfrmr.
Here is the first outlet:
I can't get the pics from the other camera on here which show some different details.
Trying to find the "right" usb wire that works.
Here is the wiring: The wires were moved to show how they are connected. Each yellow brown pair is properly wired even though it might look like one yellow goes to the opposite xfrms brown wire.
Here is the 3rd outlet: Note: 3rd and 2nd use same xfrmr.
Here is the first outlet:
I can't get the pics from the other camera on here which show some different details.
Demain,
Thanks yes that explains it. No matter which lead was changed it still had the same reading. I didn't thing of actually measureing it but now I'll open it back up and double check everything again. And measure for the balanced line.
Aside from that, me thinks I got her completely working.
Cheers,
Thanks yes that explains it. No matter which lead was changed it still had the same reading. I didn't thing of actually measureing it but now I'll open it back up and double check everything again. And measure for the balanced line.
Aside from that, me thinks I got her completely working.
Cheers,