Nasir said:
That seems a little high to me, but might be possible in a small room and up close.
For 7 watts average power (before clipping) you'd need about a 13V power supply. If you try to get an average 7 watts with the stock supply, you will be clipping a little - but you might not hear it.
With the stock 12V PSU, you'll get about 6.25 watts RMS into 8 ohms. That puts your peaks at around 12.5 watts before clipping. A small amount of clipping with these amps won't hurt your speakers. If you start to run into heavy clipping, it will sound so bad that you will turn it down, anyway.
Re: Great Amp!
Hi Jon
I'll be interested in hearing about your comparisson with the Arcam D290Ps.........I have a couple of D290s that I still need to play with.
BTW - The D290/P is not a true monoblock amp when you press the "mono" button. It just connects the left and right outputs together and they could be slightly different which can increase distortion. It is better to just use one channel on each amp. It will result in lower power....but better sound quality. Two Delta 290/Ps would probably be best setup as a bi-amp arrangement with one powering the tweeters and one powering the woofers.
(Disclaimer - Information provided courtesy of JonHarrison)
jonclancy said:I am going to give it a few days and then compare with the Arcam D290P monoblocks I was running until today. 10 WPC vs 140, but I still get plenty of volume out of the TA-10. Initial impressions are that there is more detail and separation (which I don't understand as I was running 2 mono amps before!!
Jon
Hi Jon
I'll be interested in hearing about your comparisson with the Arcam D290Ps.........I have a couple of D290s that I still need to play with.
BTW - The D290/P is not a true monoblock amp when you press the "mono" button. It just connects the left and right outputs together and they could be slightly different which can increase distortion. It is better to just use one channel on each amp. It will result in lower power....but better sound quality. Two Delta 290/Ps would probably be best setup as a bi-amp arrangement with one powering the tweeters and one powering the woofers.
(Disclaimer - Information provided courtesy of JonHarrison)
Hi! I hope Santa was kind to everyone this year!!
I have some Pana FC 2200uF caps in stock that look like they'll replace the tank caps with a bit of dressing. Clearly much more than the 1200uF FMs previously suggested. Is there such a thing as too much capacitiance with these amps? I don't want to fry anything!!
I'll be leaving the Bennic caps in for the time being. Also wondering what make the other film caps are and whether they are decent quality or would benefit from being swapped out for Wima pieces. A schema or BOM for the TA-10 would be helpful, but I doubt it would be available!
Off topic slightly: Jon is a big Arcam fan and he knows his onions! I was just about to post that:
"what you are saying is true, but not quite what I'm up to. (And leads us into "vertical" and "horizontal" bi-amping - LOL). If you look at the back of the 290P, there is a metal link that lives in a holder. If you place the metal link across the pre-out RCAs (as indicated by the dotted line), you bridge the amp"
Having checked the 290P documentation, it seems I have been under a misconception for some years!! The power output quoted on the manual (SH024C Issue 1095/2) inner leaf quotes 70W both channels into 8 Ohm and 140W single channel into 4 Ohms. Then "Connecting Your Source Component" states that using the link will provide two mono outputs from a single input. This now appears to be the same function as the Mono button on the 290 integrated and I haven't been bridging them after all. Seeing as I use a TX102 pre, I'll dig out some more interconnects and try them in vertical bi-amping with one for the treble drivers and one for bass. Doh! Or am I still confused about what the link does...!!!!????
Cheers
Jon
I have some Pana FC 2200uF caps in stock that look like they'll replace the tank caps with a bit of dressing. Clearly much more than the 1200uF FMs previously suggested. Is there such a thing as too much capacitiance with these amps? I don't want to fry anything!!
I'll be leaving the Bennic caps in for the time being. Also wondering what make the other film caps are and whether they are decent quality or would benefit from being swapped out for Wima pieces. A schema or BOM for the TA-10 would be helpful, but I doubt it would be available! Off topic slightly:
Jon is a big Arcam fan and he knows his onions! I was just about to post that:"what you are saying is true, but not quite what I'm up to. (And leads us into "vertical" and "horizontal" bi-amping - LOL). If you look at the back of the 290P, there is a metal link that lives in a holder. If you place the metal link across the pre-out RCAs (as indicated by the dotted line), you bridge the amp"
Having checked the 290P documentation, it seems I have been under a misconception for some years!! The power output quoted on the manual (SH024C Issue 1095/2) inner leaf quotes 70W both channels into 8 Ohm and 140W single channel into 4 Ohms. Then "Connecting Your Source Component" states that using the link will provide two mono outputs from a single input. This now appears to be the same function as the Mono button on the 290 integrated and I haven't been bridging them after all. Seeing as I use a TX102 pre, I'll dig out some more interconnects and try them in vertical bi-amping with one for the treble drivers and one for bass. Doh!
Or am I still confused about what the link does...!!!!????Cheers
Jon
Bi-Amping
Hi Robert,
You can move the jumpers inside the TA-10 to bypass the pot and turn it into a power amp.
My thoughts are.........
As there is no pre-out, either your tube pre will need two pre-out sockets or you could use an active crossover between your pre and power amps.
I was wondering if you could tie the + inputs of the TA-10 together to feed a mono signal, from one interconnect, to both channels and use one amp per speaker? Horizontal bi-amping ISTR. Need to read the HiFi+ article again.....
Might be wrong and would be interested to hear other opinions..
Cheers
Jon
Hi Robert,
You can move the jumpers inside the TA-10 to bypass the pot and turn it into a power amp.
My thoughts are.........
As there is no pre-out, either your tube pre will need two pre-out sockets or you could use an active crossover between your pre and power amps.
I was wondering if you could tie the + inputs of the TA-10 together to feed a mono signal, from one interconnect, to both channels and use one amp per speaker? Horizontal bi-amping ISTR. Need to read the HiFi+ article again.....
Might be wrong and would be interested to hear other opinions..
Cheers
Jon
Mono?
Hi Guys,
What a great idea - and well in keeping with the flexible design philosophy of this amp!!
I've had a quick look at this using the J2 diagram on Pano's excellent site on the TA-10 input mods page. Whichever way you wish to configure your jumpers (with or without volume pot), a staple across J2 #position 2L/R (signal in pins) should do the job.
What do you reckon? No soldering required in the amp either if you mod a couple of jumpers with a staple across them before fitting.
Cheers
Jon
Hi Guys,
What a great idea - and well in keeping with the flexible design philosophy of this amp!!
I've had a quick look at this using the J2 diagram on Pano's excellent site on the TA-10 input mods page. Whichever way you wish to configure your jumpers (with or without volume pot), a staple across J2 #position 2L/R (signal in pins) should do the job.
What do you reckon? No soldering required in the amp either if you mod a couple of jumpers with a staple across them before fitting.
Cheers
Jon
robert1325 said:
I guess it depend on if you plan on going active or passive. If going passive you would just use something like a Y cable to feed the left or right signal from the source to both inputs on the amp and then the same thing for the other channel. Then you would add the passive filters on the outputs; one channel for highs and one for lows.
Re: Mono?
Clever idea! It can not be done with jumpers alone, alas, so a staple or bit of wire would do the trick. Make sure you have a good, solid conection, tho.
If you do this, then no need for Y cables. Just run left to one amp, right to the other. With the "staple jumper" in place, both inputs will get the same signal. You're going to want a single volume control, tho. So some sort of preamp, passive or active.
Then connect one amp channel to the lows of your biwire speaker, the other to the highs. Ditto for the other amp.
I'll try to draw up a diagram of the wiring, unless someone else wants to have a try.
jonclancy said:
Clever idea! It can not be done with jumpers alone, alas, so a staple or bit of wire would do the trick. Make sure you have a good, solid conection, tho.
If you do this, then no need for Y cables. Just run left to one amp, right to the other. With the "staple jumper" in place, both inputs will get the same signal. You're going to want a single volume control, tho. So some sort of preamp, passive or active.
Then connect one amp channel to the lows of your biwire speaker, the other to the highs. Ditto for the other amp.
I'll try to draw up a diagram of the wiring, unless someone else wants to have a try.
Doh!!
I let some smoke escape!!! 
Just changing RCAs, removed the pot, replaced the board to connectors wiring (with some nice silver-plated copper) and swapped out the tank caps for 2200uF FCs I had in stock. They fit with a push, but It was a bit of a squeeze and when I powered up, had farts on one channel (oscillation??). All the wiring checks OK, no shorts, and I put the original caps and pot back for a further power up. Then some smoke escaped!!! ¦:0( I think I must have damaged one of the film caps when I was working on it.
Sadly, not got time to look at it for a few days. I was going to swap out all the film caps anyway, but this surprised me a bit as I hadn't really done that much. Serves me right for rushing to get it done!!
Still, the 2200uF caps fit with mm to spare vertically!!!
Ah well. You gotta giggle!!!
Cheers
Jon
I let some smoke escape!!!
Just changing RCAs, removed the pot, replaced the board to connectors wiring (with some nice silver-plated copper) and swapped out the tank caps for 2200uF FCs I had in stock. They fit with a push, but It was a bit of a squeeze and when I powered up, had farts on one channel (oscillation??). All the wiring checks OK, no shorts, and I put the original caps and pot back for a further power up. Then some smoke escaped!!! ¦:0( I think I must have damaged one of the film caps when I was working on it.
Sadly, not got time to look at it for a few days. I was going to swap out all the film caps anyway, but this surprised me a bit as I hadn't really done that much. Serves me right for rushing to get it done!!
Still, the 2200uF caps fit with mm to spare vertically!!!
Ah well. You gotta giggle!!!
Cheers
Jon
Would this amplifier benefit from a recase? I could use some larger value caps, better RCA's , better volume control/attenuator without removing the stock one....
Also , Is the stock SMPS any good or should I get the skynet 8080 PS? You only need one of those right? Or would one of those PSU's from audiodigit be better?
If the stock PS is good , I could mount it inside the new amp case and maybe add a larger power cap?
I'm a noob at diy but this seems quite easy to do and fun to!
Also , Is the stock SMPS any good or should I get the skynet 8080 PS? You only need one of those right? Or would one of those PSU's from audiodigit be better?
If the stock PS is good , I could mount it inside the new amp case and maybe add a larger power cap?
I'm a noob at diy but this seems quite easy to do and fun to!
I haven't even received my first t-amp , but reading about them and all these mods is good fun!
The charlize t-amp seems to be one of the better ones? I'm wondering if I should go for that one if I like my trends ta-10?
Has anyone compared the two?
It does not have the horizontal input caps, can I use caps like these on the charlize? I want to use sonicap gen 2's
Thanks
Robert
The charlize t-amp seems to be one of the better ones? I'm wondering if I should go for that one if I like my trends ta-10?
Has anyone compared the two?
It does not have the horizontal input caps, can I use caps like these on the charlize? I want to use sonicap gen 2's
Thanks
Robert
Altecs
Hi to all !
I own a pair of Altec Barcelona Voice Of The Theatre Speakers. They are 8 ohm and approx 96 db. I have used Class A Solid State as well as Valve Amplication and am currently considering an 807 Output Valve Amplifier.
I'd like to also try the T-amps and variations, but having only used a stadard T-amp on other speakers when they first came on the market, I'd like to gain a little more knowledge first.
I think the TA-10 will drive these speakers without difficulty, however, I have tried a pair of UCD180 Mono Blocks and did not like the sound - very dry and without depth or emotion.
Is anybody using the TA-10 amps with these types of sensitive speakers, and any recomendations ?
Hi to all !
I own a pair of Altec Barcelona Voice Of The Theatre Speakers. They are 8 ohm and approx 96 db. I have used Class A Solid State as well as Valve Amplication and am currently considering an 807 Output Valve Amplifier.
I'd like to also try the T-amps and variations, but having only used a stadard T-amp on other speakers when they first came on the market, I'd like to gain a little more knowledge first.
I think the TA-10 will drive these speakers without difficulty, however, I have tried a pair of UCD180 Mono Blocks and did not like the sound - very dry and without depth or emotion.
Is anybody using the TA-10 amps with these types of sensitive speakers, and any recomendations ?
I say go for it! The Trends TA-10A should sound really great on your Altecs.
I only have the Altec top end, the 811 horns and 806 drivers, but they play very well with the TA-10. On my other speakers I find the TA-10 (modified) anything but dry. It sounds large, full and warm to me. The AMP6 is even better, but the TA-10 is very good.
The Trends is cheap enough that it won't hurt to try it. You can always resell it. And I think we'd like to hear what you have to say about the TA-10 Altec combo.
Some people find that a stiff power supply with the T-Amps kills some of the magic, some of the "rhythm." As far as I can tell this is due to speakers that do better with a low damping factor. Good tight control ca suck some of the life out of the speakers, they need to be a bit "loose" to sound right. Tube amps are often good on speakers like that. Of course you can always add a little series resistance to loosen things up a bit.
I like good strong power supply for its dynamics and lower crosstalk. Everyone's tastes are different.
I only have the Altec top end, the 811 horns and 806 drivers, but they play very well with the TA-10. On my other speakers I find the TA-10 (modified) anything but dry. It sounds large, full and warm to me. The AMP6 is even better, but the TA-10 is very good.
The Trends is cheap enough that it won't hurt to try it. You can always resell it.
And I think we'd like to hear what you have to say about the TA-10 Altec combo.Some people find that a stiff power supply with the T-Amps kills some of the magic, some of the "rhythm." As far as I can tell this is due to speakers that do better with a low damping factor. Good tight control ca suck some of the life out of the speakers, they need to be a bit "loose" to sound right. Tube amps are often good on speakers like that. Of course you can always add a little series resistance to loosen things up a bit.
I like good strong power supply for its dynamics and lower crosstalk. Everyone's tastes are different.
Altec and t amp
Ran a Charlize into some altecs at my dads can't recall the exact model horn and 15inch.
Sound was dynamic, detailed and dry would be a good description of the overall sound on
the altecs. Maybe look to a tube pre amp if you're concered about a too "dry" sound. I would
have no reservations about the trends-altec combo for the price of the trends and the mod potentals.
Ran a Charlize into some altecs at my dads can't recall the exact model horn and 15inch.
Sound was dynamic, detailed and dry would be a good description of the overall sound on
the altecs. Maybe look to a tube pre amp if you're concered about a too "dry" sound. I would
have no reservations about the trends-altec combo for the price of the trends and the mod potentals.
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