Tracking down source of distortion peak in my MTM

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Just another Moderator
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Thanks Graham, I think If I need to repair again the M4 skein nuts would probably be the ticket, and may have been the best option originally as well (due to the back surface not being flat as I scalloped around the nuts a lot. This pic shows the problem http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/1423/518d00591f982899e1dd979010eedc5b_10.jpg

I'm pretty hard to nail down to a time but if we could line something up would be happy to help out with some measurements. I was supposed to be doing so once before with another Sydney member and I just never got to it :( (purely a problem on my side).

Tony.
 
diyAudio Moderator
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Haha. I think I read about it on the packaging. My experience with it and heat comes from replacing the rear-view mirror on (if you remember it Tony) a Ford XC. It was a metal block glued to the windscreen with the mirror then attached, and in summer it would sometimes fall in my lap (if I were turning left :D)
 
Just another Moderator
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hehe yes I can imagine the temp inside the car getting to over 60 deg C! The stuff I'm using now is rated to 120 deg C (or perhaps a bit higher). It's selleys knead it aqua. I bought it to try and patch up a leak in my Radiator (hence the requirement for high temp). It sets rock hard!!

Maybe my araldite was too old (or I didn't use enough hardener), but it is quite flexible and quite easy to peel off.

Tony.
 
diyAudio Moderator
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While on the subject, I used some of the extra tough Araldite to repair the fairing on my bike (fibreglass and steel). It's just araldite without the 5 minute thing, takes more than a day for full hardness and is surprisingly good. This is a heavy fairing and the glue points were awkward but it has held for many tens of ,000km.
 
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