TPA3116D2 Amp

TH Parts and Smaller Board Design [ 50 x 50mm ]

This one small and tight enough?

2.53" x 2.20"

TH Parts + S/D PIN + MUTE and Smaller Board Design [ 50 x 50mm ]
Keeping in-used the Shielded Inductors.
 

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I'm currently trying to squeeze it down to a standard 1/16th brick size (1.3"x0.9"/33x23mm), may have to settle for the larger 1/8th size (2.3"x0.9"/58x23mm) it's currently on as that allows for plenty of room for quality connectors.

33x23mm???... Is that possible!!!?... OMG!!!... really squeezed... I suppose your are using ferrite bead chip as a filter, right!?... the IC it selfs its 12x6mm!!!... Cant wait to see your magic!!!
 
33x23mm???... Is that possible!!!?... OMG!!!... really squeezed... I suppose your are using ferrite bead chip as a filter, right!?... the IC it selfs its 12x6mm!!!... Cant wait to see your magic!!!

Yeah, ferrite beads naturally. But also due to using hybrid caps you can achieve much higher ripple current with much smaller caps than the standard 220µF caps. I go with 68µF as that still gives twice the max ripple current and half the ESR of the 220µF standard caps. Size is 6.6x8.2mm compared to 10.3x12.8mm seating plane so size is roughly half as well.

Oh, and with the squeezed size I dropped the TPA3118 in favor of the TPA3132 instead.
 
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This means half the power of the TPA3116d2, at least with a 4 ohms load, right?
No PBTL option neither...

No, same power output. It's the same chip really. The data sheet is just more realistic and suggests 19V as operating supply voltage which you'll want with the TPA3116 as well, so no difference there. Yes, there's PBTL option built in, it's internally the same chip. Only real difference is that the alternative output switching option is removed from it. The TPA3132 however is automotive qualified which means it should be able to handle much hasher environments and abuse.
 
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33mm x 23mm ??? Wow, that is **small**! We are all looking forward to seeing this design. It's going to be like fishing - drop the hook and line with bait, and wait for the bite by YJ and enjoy the rewards. :D

At this size, you can get the boards made at qnty 10 for ~$10 via Itead Studio. I assume the connections are just thru holes for soldering wires directly? Any connector or terminal screw block will seriously kill your real estate on that tiny board.
 
No through holes of any kind. It's supposed to glue directly on a metal chassis with double adhesive thermal tape or fit directly on a standard brick heat sink with pressure sensitive thermal glue so there can be no through hole parts. It's not even allowed to have any traces whatsoever, only ground plane, on the bottom side. Terminals have to be SMT.
 
Not to go too far off topic here, but, I am wondering if anyone out there has had the opportunity to compare any of the variations on these boards to the NCORE or similar "state of the art" class D amps. And for that matter any comparisons to other highly regarded amps solid state or tube? PS-It helps to know what speakers people are using. I'm planning on picking up some used OhmWalsh2 speakers and trying them out with my new Breeze. I'll let you all know.
 
I'm currently trying to squeeze it down to a standard 1/16th brick size (1.3"x0.9"/33x23mm), may have to settle for the larger 1/8th size (2.3"x0.9"/58x23mm) it's currently on as that allows for plenty of room for quality connectors.

Holy Camoly, don't make it too small. Us older folk have to be able to see :magnify: the dang thing! ;)

Totally interested as well. :xfingers:

PS If it's just board and pre-mounted chip, I'll be really easy and cheap to mail as a letter.

You rock! :cheers:
 
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No through holes of any kind. It's supposed to glue directly on a metal chassis with double adhesive thermal tape or fit directly on a standard brick heat sink with pressure sensitive thermal glue so there can be no through hole parts. It's not even allowed to have any traces whatsoever, only ground plane, on the bottom side. Terminals have to be SMT.


So how do you connect adio input and speaker leads? Flat little metal strips soldered SMT syle?
 
Sorry to intrude on the topic but,I have a headache after reading 60 pages and not enough time today to go through it all.:)
About to purchase the TPA3116 2.1
I am building a portable boombox with a 24v lithium.
2x 3way 8ohm speakers with crossovers.Sub-mid-tweet(6 total)
How could I make this work on the 3 channel while using the crossovers?
Can I bridge the 2x50w channels and run one of the crossovers to that?and other to sub channel?

Thanks for any input.
 
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Sorry to intrude on the topic but,I have a headache after reading 60 pages and not enough time today to go through it all.:)
About to purchase the TPA3116 2.1
I am building a portable boombox with a 24v lithium.
2x 3way 8ohm speakers with crossovers.Sub-mid-tweet(6 total)
How could I make this work on the 3 channel while using the crossovers?
Can I bridge the 2x50w channels and run one of the crossovers to that?and other to sub channel?

Thanks for any input.

Are you talking about bi-amp tri-amping each speaker? If the speakers have speaker level crossovers, you drive them with a single channel of the L/R. If you are looking for 3-way active crossover and driving 6 channels of amplification, check out the discrete 6 channel version (or 4 channel) version of the TPA3116. There are tons of them, all under $50.
 
Are you talking about bi-amp tri-amping each speaker? If the speakers have speaker level crossovers, you drive them with a single channel of the L/R. If you are looking for 3-way active crossover and driving 6 channels of amplification, check out the discrete 6 channel version (or 4 channel) version of the TPA3116. There are tons of them, all under $50.
These are just 3way crossover boards from PartsExp that the mid,sub,tweet run to and then into the amp.I just didn't want to run the two crossover to L/R channels and leave the sub channel on amp empty so I was looking for another option.I'm a newb with these electronics.:worried: