TPA3116D2 Amp

Haroldhill,
I have done some research into headphone amps and it looks like the O2 by NwAvGuy - sold prebuilt by JDS for $100 looks tough to beat based on specs. I think it can be DIY built for $40.
JDS Labs - Objective2 Headphone Amplifier

My headphones are at the upper limit of the O2, even at the highest gain, if I recall what NwAvGuy had commented. I do have a DIY O2 on hand though, so I just need to make a XLR to TRS cable to see if it will work. The O2 is a great little amp, for sure.
 
When I went to the Post Office to pick up my Valab 20k stepped attenuator they handed me two packages.

I'd been wondering what was happening with the ChengZhi blue 2.0 board (the one with the purple caps and heatsink). Like a number others, I'd ordered it, only to have the Aliexpress vendor cancel due to purported problems with the amp. They'd sent an email that was a little unclear. I'd written back but with no response and was wondering what was going on (not that actively, as I only had $11.89 in the deal).

It showed up today.

I put a 50k Alpha pot on it. There is some hiss, if I press my ears immediately up to the speaker. I am using Mogami 2549 between the RCAs and pot, with the shield as ground, and the longish, and unbelievably thin (30ga?) "shielded" hook-up cable as part of a quick and dirty test rig, so this his may not be a problem in a better setup.

So far, it sounds pretty good. I was concerned that it might be a little bass shy, due to the 470uf power caps, but the bass is substantial (if maybe, just maybe, a little flabby--the Alpha pot is not helping here, either).

It is advertised as having "no sonic boom switch," which I assumed meant no start up pop, but I must have been mistaken. It pops in the left-hand speaker, just like the rest of the boards.

It is far too early to make any pronouncements. I want to let it play a while to see if the sound changes. I have it playing in the background while I work and it has been an enjoyable afternoon of music.

The heatsink and inductors are a little warm (by which I really mean just a little) in comparison to the Yuanjing boards, but nothing approaching a problem.

One thing I would note is that the board is fairly compact. Replacing those 470uf caps will likely prove challenging. You won't be using Elna Silmic IIs or even Nichicon FGs, at least not on the top of the board.

If mine came, I am sure that others' will also probably show up soon. Time to start checking those mailboxes.
 
Well, the parts are all in the mail, so I'll give it a try. Worst case scenario, I'll have a new amp for my neglected bookshelf speakers!

My suggestion would be to fit RC networks (where R is 8ohms) at the output to provide sufficient damping. Then the LC filter will see the resistor at HF - which is where it is needed to damp the filter - but won't waste much power at LF due to the C. C value to be chosen by listening.

<edit> I would also try a transformer to get even better dynamics as your headphones aren't going to require the full swing from the amp. Or just run at the lowest supply voltage you can which gives the required maximum output.
 
Last edited:
I did too but it is still not finished. The case is more expensive than the amp. Even the feet are more expensive than the amp itself.

Meanwhile I replaced the blue input caps for Wima MKPs as YJ used different ones for L and R. For the power supply I use an Rcore 12 V AC with Kendeil 22.000 µF 40 V so no SMPS.

Lookin' nice, Jean-Paul.

I hope to hear (and see) more about this.
 
My suggestion would be to fit RC networks (where R is 8ohms) at the output to provide sufficient damping. Then the LC filter will see the resistor at HF - which is where it is needed to damp the filter - but won't waste much power at LF due to the C. C value to be chosen by listening.

<edit> I would also try a transformer to get even better dynamics as your headphones aren't going to require the full swing from the amp. Or just run at the lowest supply voltage you can which gives the required maximum output.

I'll give the resistor network a try. In fact I have one setup to give 12 dB attenuation and 8ohms total resistance that I use with a transformer-coupled tube amp. And I'll try several different PSUs to see which works best.
 
I would like to use this amp (2.1 boards) with an active crossover in order to triamp my speakers but my main concern is about the safety of my speakers using these amps.

Has anyone measure the DC offset of these amps, do the have a dc protection circuit or click/pop protection?

It has internal DC protection shutdown. Max DC offset is 15mV before shutdown. Typical DC offset is 1.5mV.

Click/pop protection? No. But it's easy to implement. See earlier posts.
 
stricktly soundwise, is the blue board net superior than the cheap red board that sells on ebay with 15$? I would have preffered the red board since it comes with an adjustable potentiometer that I think is a must in case I want to use the LINE IN directly from CD player which outputs 2 Vrms on it's output; I remember reading somewhere that above 1,6 Vrms input voltage it starts clipping ?!
 
Member
Joined 2008
Paid Member
cookies

Hello TPA3116 madmen. :D
I will be boxing up my red YJ 2.0 board in a cookie tin I've saved for just such a project. I will include a 12V SMPS that I rescued from a shoddily-put-together 41Hz Amp6. My question to those more experienced than I: what would be the optimal orientation of both of these units inside the tin? Would it make much a difference one way or another? In the attached picture the mains input to the SMPS is at the bottom, and the 12VDC output is at the top.
Thanks for your suggestions! :cheers:
 

Attachments

  • cookies.JPG
    cookies.JPG
    145.9 KB · Views: 700
Member
Joined 2008
Paid Member
no cookies

Well, I scrapped that idea. :D I had another small chassis that fit the board perfectly. It's too late (early) to really fire it up, so I'll post listening impressions later.
I received a blue 2.0 board recently, and may put that one in another tin I've saved -- Sprungli chocolate from Zurich. :yummy:
 

Attachments

  • 1-P1040967.JPG
    1-P1040967.JPG
    91 KB · Views: 679
Disabled Account
Joined 2002
When I went to the Post Office to pick up my Valab 20k stepped attenuator they handed me two packages.

I'd been wondering what was happening with the ChengZhi blue 2.0 board (the one with the purple caps and heatsink). Like a number others, I'd ordered it, only to have the Aliexpress vendor cancel due to purported problems with the amp. They'd sent an email that was a little unclear. I'd written back but with no response and was wondering what was going on (not that actively, as I only had $11.89 in the deal).

It showed up today.

I put a 50k Alpha pot on it. There is some hiss, if I press my ears immediately up to the speaker. I am using Mogami 2549 between the RCAs and pot, with the shield as ground, and the longish, and unbelievably thin (30ga?) "shielded" hook-up cable as part of a quick and dirty test rig, so this his may not be a problem in a better setup.

So far, it sounds pretty good. I was concerned that it might be a little bass shy, due to the 470uf power caps, but the bass is substantial (if maybe, just maybe, a little flabby--the Alpha pot is not helping here, either).

It is advertised as having "no sonic boom switch," which I assumed meant no start up pop, but I must have been mistaken. It pops in the left-hand speaker, just like the rest of the boards.

It is far too early to make any pronouncements. I want to let it play a while to see if the sound changes. I have it playing in the background while I work and it has been an enjoyable afternoon of music.

The heatsink and inductors are a little warm (by which I really mean just a little) in comparison to the Yuanjing boards, but nothing approaching a problem.

One thing I would note is that the board is fairly compact. Replacing those 470uf caps will likely prove challenging. You won't be using Elna Silmic IIs or even Nichicon FGs, at least not on the top of the board.

If mine came, I am sure that others' will also probably show up soon. Time to start checking those mailboxes.

I would not connect expensive speakers. They did withdraw this board with a reason ! Maybe investing some time in what the design error could be is advisable. Is is a thermal or electrical problem, what can break down, what are the differences with the known red and blue board etc.
 
Last edited:
Hi,
Despite the hmmm noise I can't remove,
I had a quick comparaison between YJ board (YJ basic power input) and LJM L15D with connexelectronic SMPS

My inpressions:
For me, low frequencies have better volume with YJ board
High frequencies have less hiss
For me, details are better with LJM board

Is it a Placebo effect?

Measurements:

I used REW and UMIK 1 to compare both LJM and YJ boards with and without a matiss clone preamp as input
UMIK 1 was 10cm to the left speaker, and no sound on the right speaker
My source is a hifimedy DAC, REW produce 44khz/16 bits sampling rate
I have audax diy speakers
I've check the UMIK1 spectrum to have full range of data.

well....

I am not an expert for sound mesasurement,
but for me, screens don't display significant differences, it looks like you can make layers with the 4 measurements, and they are the same. => For this amplifiers, speakers should make the difference

So if my measurements and analysis are correct,
despite the hmm sound, I recommand YJ board over LJM L15D as it is a good price ratio.
 
Last edited: