Using a fine woven glass veil and epoxy is a standard measure to preserve wood gain. Just something that I picked up by observing the pros at work. I wouldn't know where to refer. Probably the most detailed article would be mine on a forum where I am still listed as vendor and consultant for what's regarded as absolute high end for that equipment. Composites and finishes has been life work. This is an example of setting up a rod development shop in my spare bedroom and going head-to-head with the best of GT Popping out of Japan and ending up being called on to consult with, lifting their own standards both in performance and finish. These two pics are of prototypes when starting out. First attempts and tests
I'll be brutal and say that a glass like finish is easier than trying to go the usual sanding and varnishing and runs and streaks and all that money and time spent on those materials to end up looking like a home varnished furniture
So is a high-end satin finish. If either feels like plastic, then it has not been done correctly. Main prob is that a bad procedure is promoted by the outlets and online resources. The regular methods maybe what everyone is used to using, but some of us have spent careers developing and refining better methods and passing that on as it's more fulfilling to watch others nail it too
My last bit of woodwork with real timber. The surface in person looks like diamond like coating but feels silky slithery to touch. That's just water break free buffed finish really zoomed in. It's a bit of scrap that I was curious to see what a 90 seams would look like with grain ina speaker box. I think Tangent or some brand in the 90s had ads in the AU hi-fi mag that had 90 seams that looked gorgeous. I think this one is a fail as it looks like a chopping board and not a high end cabinet. It shows me that contours like that scream shortcut
The back side, apart from the razor sharp edge, another fail. The 90 seams really spoil the look. 45 done with a veil will be sharp. MDF is like sponge, one shortcut I have seen is 90 seams covered with veneer. Am I the only one that can see the seam print through?
I have started applying all that I have learnt in other areas to making some audio setups for personal use, as well as a couple of commercial bass amps. Let's see what my first serious attempts of speaker cabs turn out
Can you use the Makita router with Festool rail?
I am considering Makita also. Which model do you have? I suspect there has to be some adapter to use Makita router with Festool rails?
Also have you already routed the circles for drivers mount? Does Makita has some tool for that?
Choosing the router I heart the opinion it is better to use rather less power router if you want to use it for circle routing. Does it make any sence?
I’ve only used the festool rail as a straight edge guide for the router. I don’t have any type of attachment that would allow the router to sit in the rail.
I have the RP1800. It’s pretty big, but I can use it for just about anything a router can do.
I use this for cutting holes. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/circle-cutting-jig-recommended.396177/
I have the RP1800. It’s pretty big, but I can use it for just about anything a router can do.
I use this for cutting holes. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/circle-cutting-jig-recommended.396177/
Bosch has a dandy plunge/fixed base router combo which saves money and space. Depending on whether I'm working with birch or MDF I use a 1/16" or 1/8" roundover respectively to ease the edges. Larger roundovers, say 3/4", are useful for reducing diffraction off front panel edges. Rabbet bits are imperative for flush-mounting drivers; fortunately Freud offers a complete set from flush to 1/2". I also like a 3/4" rabbet for joints such as the ones in the third picture here, which come together more precisely than butt joints.
For penciling lines precisely, such as intersecting two for drill holes, Incra T-rules come in Imperial (6", 12", 18") and metric (150mm, 300mm). Once I had my technique down (it takes a bit of practice) I can reliably hit 1/64" marks. The only problem is keeping people from filching yours once they see them.
With such precise crosshairs you want a Starrett prick punch to mark the line intersection. Prick punches are best used to dimple the surface just enough so the heavier punch won't slide around when enlarging the dimple for drill bits; the point is narrow enough that you don't want to ruin it by whaling big divots in steel.
Speaking of drill bits, at least three 1/8" bits should be in your tool chest. They're invaluable for starting holes so larger bits have someplace to go. And you want the holes straight so a drill bit guide is your friend. As for other sizes, you can either buy them individually or in a set. Milwaukee has a decent set in black oxide, about twice the price of the less expensive ones, but they'll last. You still want a lot of 1/8" -- they'll be your go-tos on every job.
I was looking at the circle jig you are refering to but I didn't find router I originally wanted in compatibility sheet. So now I am hesitating between Makita RP1803 and RP2303. The second one is more powerful with almost same weight, any reason not to get it?
@DSP_Geek I looked at Bosch routers but 1617 model and any kit with it is out of stock in my country.
It it possible to lock the plunge base and use the router as solid base?
@jpago I looked at the Festool table but I will probably get this one instead. It is considerably cheaper, looks stable. It should be good enough, right?
Two of these will be more adaptable, cheaper and have a greater load capacity. If you need a larger top, just make one with a double thickness of plywood or MDF. I bought my sons two and they use them all the time. I have used earlier versions for many decades.
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@martin155
Festool table with saw attachment
The festool table has a saw attachment that allows you to make good 90° cuts. And repeatable cuts. And miters. I made my kitchen cabinets with one.
On the other hand I bought a used Craftsman table saw for $100 and cleaned and adjusted it up.
Festool table with saw attachment
The festool table has a saw attachment that allows you to make good 90° cuts. And repeatable cuts. And miters. I made my kitchen cabinets with one.
On the other hand I bought a used Craftsman table saw for $100 and cleaned and adjusted it up.
@jpago I was thinking about getting parallel or 90° Festool stops.
@jotom750 maybe I will get these. They will be easy to transport if needed. But I liked the MDF desk with holes for clamps.
Also I was considering some heavier work table.. maybe it could be more stable that Festool/Wolfcraft and it is also foldable.
@jotom750 maybe I will get these. They will be easy to transport if needed. But I liked the MDF desk with holes for clamps.
Also I was considering some heavier work table.. maybe it could be more stable that Festool/Wolfcraft and it is also foldable.
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