Both of those caps are cheap, general purpose caps, not audio grade. I wouldn't recommend either. The top one does not identify it's polarity. The bottom one is polar and not usable in an AC speaker crossover. Don't know where you are located, but if in the U.S. get Dayton film caps or Dayton electrolytics. Both are bi-polar and will work in your speaker.
It matters and it does not matter. Don't ask me the details because I don't know them. What you can look up is the super E-Cap configuration, where the fictional + and fictional - of bipolar caps are combined. It's a black gate thing, I haven't tried it.. but it might help you in your quest to know more about what you did. I would have done the same as you did by the way..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is a pic of my busted cap
(Can't even embed right!)https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-Yz9ZAviLOLSDFRV1RiZTNURzA/view
Great feedback! Thanks! In the US
So I should go here:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-15-15uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-432
Or stick with 100V rating on el-cheapo:
https://www.parts-express.com/15uf-100v-electrolytic-non-polarized-crossover-capacitor--027-344
Should I change the cap in the other channel to match?
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Indeed...
I was thinking to a concrete design where I need only around 1500 uF / 16V after the rectifier bridge. The Nichicon Muse ES bipolar have its biggest cap at 1000 uF /16 V... which is enough in my situation. to low for an amp but if you make one à la Sphinx Audio (Dutch or Sweeden ? iirc).... they didn't use bipolar but normal 10 x 2 000 uF caps if I remember in one of their amp.
I was thinking to a concrete design where I need only around 1500 uF / 16V after the rectifier bridge. The Nichicon Muse ES bipolar have its biggest cap at 1000 uF /16 V... which is enough in my situation. to low for an amp but if you make one à la Sphinx Audio (Dutch or Sweeden ? iirc).... they didn't use bipolar but normal 10 x 2 000 uF caps if I remember in one of their amp.
If it is bipolar then it doesn't have a positive pole.Eldam said:
Sometimes in electronics it is possible to get away with using an inappropriate component, such as a bipolar cap in a polarised circuit location. There is no advantage in using an inappropriate component (apart from convenience if you happen to have them already in stock at home).
Hi Phase,
Sorry, it's above my knowledge and I haven't exerienced it already ,
I try to understand your answer: take a radial cap with the same space between leads :bipolar and a non polar due to their internal construction have different inductance ? (i.e. : bipolar have a > inductance due to its bidirectional construction = same having a more space between the two leads vs a non polar radial cap ?)
Sorry, it's above my knowledge and I haven't exerienced it already ,
I try to understand your answer: take a radial cap with the same space between leads :bipolar and a non polar due to their internal construction have different inductance ? (i.e. : bipolar have a > inductance due to its bidirectional construction = same having a more space between the two leads vs a non polar radial cap ?)
Bipolar electrolytics are not two capacitors back to back, although they do have two oxide films back to back (with electrolyte between them). The inductance would probably be about the same, and in any case inductance is not an important characteristic for a PSU reservoir cap.
It is still not clear to me why anyone would choose to use a bipolar cap for a PSU. It has no advantage, so why even consider it?
It is still not clear to me why anyone would choose to use a bipolar cap for a PSU. It has no advantage, so why even consider it?
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