Most of the time with decoupling, a .01 works better for me, where a .1 had been used, but not every time.
I couldn't get any good sound from the mkp1837 that were so revered, they were one of my first modifications to audio gear. Everyone has different hearing though, so maybe it's just me.
I couldn't get any good sound from the mkp1837 that were so revered, they were one of my first modifications to audio gear. Everyone has different hearing though, so maybe it's just me.
+1
Again, I do agree.
MKP1837 IMHO is veiled, it smooths sound.
Much better a Wima FKP2 or a Vishay/Ero KP1830 (which BTW was the orginal cap suggested to Tony G, it's false that KP1830 and MKP1837 are the same...).
Also really good are KP1832 (NOS), IMHO the best for bypassing in crossovers.
Polystyrene capatitor 10nF - 600V
Maybe with this NOS Styroflex-Mx from SIC like me. They are cheap polystyrene capacitors.
LOT 3 Condensateurs Styroflex - NEUFS 10nF - 600V - 0.010uF - 10000pF - 10% | eBay
KEF Q100 Uni Q bookshelf speakers. 5.25" coaxial with front bass reflex. - Página 3
Maybe with this NOS Styroflex-Mx from SIC like me. They are cheap polystyrene capacitors.
LOT 3 Condensateurs Styroflex - NEUFS 10nF - 600V - 0.010uF - 10000pF - 10% | eBay
KEF Q100 Uni Q bookshelf speakers. 5.25" coaxial with front bass reflex. - Página 3
Other options:
OEM (CPS02/10) - 10pF 630V Polystyrene Capacitor
-> http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/cps0210-10pf-630v-polystyrene-capacitor-p-9571.html
LCR160-030: 15pF 160Vdc LCR Polystyrene Capacitor ±1pF
-> http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/lcr160-030-15pf-160v-lcr-polystyrene-capacitor.html
More audiophile and expensive:
JCW-030 - 0.022uF 600Vdc Jupiter Copper Foil, Paper & Wax Capacitor
-> http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/jcw030-0022uf-600vdc-jupiter-copper-foil-paper-p-9968.html
OEM (CPS02/10) - 10pF 630V Polystyrene Capacitor
-> http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/cps0210-10pf-630v-polystyrene-capacitor-p-9571.html
LCR160-030: 15pF 160Vdc LCR Polystyrene Capacitor ±1pF
-> http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/lcr160-030-15pf-160v-lcr-polystyrene-capacitor.html
More audiophile and expensive:
JCW-030 - 0.022uF 600Vdc Jupiter Copper Foil, Paper & Wax Capacitor
-> http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/jcw030-0022uf-600vdc-jupiter-copper-foil-paper-p-9968.html
I think the bypass I use is the Wima FKP2 series, which I vaguely recall are aluminum foils, not the normal metalized foils.
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I'm curious to know what brand speakers and electronic components you use to hear the differences? I personally like the sound of tube amps that I have modified using Russian Teflon caps.
I'm still waiting to hear back from a CDE rep in my area to obtain some of the 950C series caps. So perhaps I should hold off on getting the CDE .01uF/3000 caps for bypassing and and order these Wima or Vishay caps for bypassing?
What caps do you prefer in your speaker crossovers?
I also use a lot of the Wima FKP2
, and sometimes the FPK1 if there is room.
Have some Russian surplus K71-5, polystyrene, were $20 for 50 of them if I recall. These are very revealing, but are ok when used along with the others.
I found some mial polystyrene that I haven't tried yet, must be some 40 years old I figure.
These are all .01uf.
It seems most of the weight is placed on any that are in series with the signal, then the small electrolytic parts, and the ones after the regulators.
My work system is a D.C. Coupled JC-2 clone headphone amp/wm8741 Dac setup, isolation transformer for mains power. Car setup uses a hot biased amp, JBL titanium tweeters, polypropylene in crossovers bypassed with Russian polystyrenes. Home setup is an AK4495 dac, Hafler dh500 with all new capacitors, magnepan smg with polypropylene in the crossovers, bypassed with Russian polystyrenes. I use a lot of ferrites snapped on all the signal cabling, USB, speaker cables, laptop power wire, which really help out the detail, or rather to keep noise out of a sensitive system.
, and sometimes the FPK1 if there is room.Have some Russian surplus K71-5, polystyrene, were $20 for 50 of them if I recall. These are very revealing, but are ok when used along with the others.
I found some mial polystyrene that I haven't tried yet, must be some 40 years old I figure.
These are all .01uf.
It seems most of the weight is placed on any that are in series with the signal, then the small electrolytic parts, and the ones after the regulators.
My work system is a D.C. Coupled JC-2 clone headphone amp/wm8741 Dac setup, isolation transformer for mains power. Car setup uses a hot biased amp, JBL titanium tweeters, polypropylene in crossovers bypassed with Russian polystyrenes. Home setup is an AK4495 dac, Hafler dh500 with all new capacitors, magnepan smg with polypropylene in the crossovers, bypassed with Russian polystyrenes. I use a lot of ferrites snapped on all the signal cabling, USB, speaker cables, laptop power wire, which really help out the detail, or rather to keep noise out of a sensitive system.
Nothing fancy...
Loudspeakers: Monitor Audio Bronze 5
Power Amp: My_Ref Fremen Edition
Pre-Amp: DCB1 Mezmerize
DAC: UStars AK4495SEQ + AK4137 ASRC with LKS Amanero Upgrade
Turntable: Pioneer PL-30K
I would.
In this moment my Monitor Audio are still stock, I'm busy in other projects.
BTW they already have film caps and sounds already gorgeous.
I've tried some with my former speakers (Infinity Alpha 40), I've had good results with plain Mundorf Supreme on tweeters and Mundord ECap AC Plain on Woofers and Midrange.
If caps are good enough I prefer not to use any bypass, I somewhat feel they mess thing up.
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