Yes the shine is mainly dependent on the base material, but can be added to in the sealing process. The main purpose of the sealing process is to close the pores of the oxidized surface, this is done by bringing the temperature of the surface to 98C. It's not critical what liquid is used for this purpose. Nickle Acetate or other additives can be added to the sealer bath as a clear coat for UV protection or other purposes. There are other options too, but this is an industry that seems to thrive on secrecy. Good information is hard to find, it's mostly trial and error to achieve good results
Always remember when you are dealing with an anodizing shop or other such business, they are in it to make money. They are not going to offer suggestions that are going to cost them time or money to implement if it's not necessary or going to earn them more money.
Always remember when you are dealing with an anodizing shop or other such business, they are in it to make money. They are not going to offer suggestions that are going to cost them time or money to implement if it's not necessary or going to earn them more money.
Once you drop the aluminum in an etching tank, the polished, smooth surface is removed.
There MUST be a way to get that bright finish, because you see it all over the place.
I have some aluminum tubes (actually drops from a wind chime company) that are smooth and bright. I want that. Have yet to find an anodizer who knows how that is done.
I am guessing that the time between the polish step in the factory and the anodize step (in the factory) is very short, with only a degrease before the anodize. Recently I have been told that there is a "bright anodize" process too. Have not run into it.
Soda cans have a label applied with a synthetic "ink" that is UV cured and super hard. Try to scrape it. It does scrape but with difficulty. Could make a neat front panel method, IF you can find the stuff and how it is done.
Brass - suggest nickel, chrome or black chrome finish.
_-_-bear
Most basic anodizers use a "water seal" aka nothing. There are a variety of sealants, cost extra, but keep the colors from fading.
Ever see the black anodize turn purple? Not sealed. Look into sealers, and also hard anodize.
There MUST be a way to get that bright finish, because you see it all over the place.
I have some aluminum tubes (actually drops from a wind chime company) that are smooth and bright. I want that. Have yet to find an anodizer who knows how that is done.
I am guessing that the time between the polish step in the factory and the anodize step (in the factory) is very short, with only a degrease before the anodize. Recently I have been told that there is a "bright anodize" process too. Have not run into it.
Soda cans have a label applied with a synthetic "ink" that is UV cured and super hard. Try to scrape it. It does scrape but with difficulty. Could make a neat front panel method, IF you can find the stuff and how it is done.
Brass - suggest nickel, chrome or black chrome finish.
_-_-bear
Most basic anodizers use a "water seal" aka nothing. There are a variety of sealants, cost extra, but keep the colors from fading.
Ever see the black anodize turn purple? Not sealed. Look into sealers, and also hard anodize.
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The aluminum doesn't need to be etched prior to anodizing, it just needs to be cleaned. It normally gets etched because that's the easiest way to get an even sheen. I take a part straight off the milling machine, degrease it, desmut it and anodize it regularly with great results. If the part is a mill finish, or has been laying around for a while, it give it a quick wash with a product called Pro-Bright from Ken-Pro to remove the oxide layer and then degrease, desmut, and anodize.
I'm still fairly new at the anodizing process and am still learning, but it doesn't take long to figure out the games the anodize shops are playing and better ways to achieve a finished product, but it takes a lot more effort and time.
Roughly 350x350x75mm
Etching needs to be done to remove the oxyde layer and for cleaning -
if parts have been milled somewhere else and have been stored for longer time. I was told the story that someone stored parts for anodizing
in his car over night - Dew and humidity led to bad results because the parts had corroded.
True, it does not need to be done of the parts goes directly to the anodisation process.
But the parts need not to stay in the etching bath for long times - but almost no "pro" anodizer cares about this. They etch long to get a guaranteed clean (and dull) surface.
Then they tell you it is the only way to go. But on the other hand, a now defunct german company told me that nitric acid for shiny etching is very bad to handle.
The gases need to be lead away immediately.
But it is very obvious, that shiny, brushed surfaces were much more common in the 70s and 80s - no matter how expensive your gear was.
Sony or Accuphase - same shine. The Nakamichi example has an oxyde layer of 15µm - an anodizer of today would normally tell me, that 15µm
already results in a dull surface. Obviously, this does not have to be the matter.
BTW hard anodized surfaces with 150µm thickness ore more do not look pleasant. They almost have plastic look to them, the metallic feel is gone.
Here in Germany, there is this supplier for hobbyists, also in English:
Electronic Thingks - Willkommen
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15mm for the front and side panels, 5mm for the back. 17mm for top and bottom plates
but they are milled down to 5mm in the central area.
So inner space is about 65x330x280, heatsinks included.
Enough height for the toroid.
Simple reason why I use thick aluminium for top and bottom plates and have them milled down:
With weak dyes on different batches of aluminium, colours can change . No problem, if you brush
one part and sandblast the other because they will appear different to the eye.
Or using strong colours like black are (almost) a non brainer.
But with weak colours in anodizing, all parts should be from the same base material and batch.
The guy milling the parts agreed if we took brass not to alter the design. (I.e use sensible 5mm material for 5mm plates)
We would make double amount of aluminium parts for anodizing to have some reserve if something goes wrong. Remember, it is not only the anodizing, it is the brushing and sandblasting at well
that could cause error (And I´ve seen a lot)
With brass, he would mill half the amount, because an error in painting would always be easier to correct.
Still milling would take a bit longer...
but they are milled down to 5mm in the central area.
So inner space is about 65x330x280, heatsinks included.
Enough height for the toroid.
Simple reason why I use thick aluminium for top and bottom plates and have them milled down:
With weak dyes on different batches of aluminium, colours can change . No problem, if you brush
one part and sandblast the other because they will appear different to the eye.
Or using strong colours like black are (almost) a non brainer.
But with weak colours in anodizing, all parts should be from the same base material and batch.
The guy milling the parts agreed if we took brass not to alter the design. (I.e use sensible 5mm material for 5mm plates)
We would make double amount of aluminium parts for anodizing to have some reserve if something goes wrong. Remember, it is not only the anodizing, it is the brushing and sandblasting at well
that could cause error (And I´ve seen a lot)
With brass, he would mill half the amount, because an error in painting would always be easier to correct.
Still milling would take a bit longer...
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