How to lose the blues!
>>>There is a SOIC version of the LME49860 too, but probably wouldn't be any help.
That is the version Wolfson has been writing about but he has been so cheap he failed to notice that by using a PAIR of the rotated 860 SOIC packages he could 'lose the blues'. None of the three half inch wires would be needed, just a single lifted leg for the output connected to the input of the buffer thru the via. That would leave one unused opamp in each package but eliminate the crosstalk potential. What is the proper way to connect an unused opamp to keep it quiet?
With these minimal surgical alterations and using just one of the opamps in each package, might the higher rail voltage offset the lesser performance of the 860 v. 990 package?
I looked extensively for a higher voltage solid polymer cap without success.
>>>There is a SOIC version of the LME49860 too, but probably wouldn't be any help.
That is the version Wolfson has been writing about but he has been so cheap he failed to notice that by using a PAIR of the rotated 860 SOIC packages he could 'lose the blues'. None of the three half inch wires would be needed, just a single lifted leg for the output connected to the input of the buffer thru the via. That would leave one unused opamp in each package but eliminate the crosstalk potential. What is the proper way to connect an unused opamp to keep it quiet?
With these minimal surgical alterations and using just one of the opamps in each package, might the higher rail voltage offset the lesser performance of the 860 v. 990 package?
I looked extensively for a higher voltage solid polymer cap without success.
Wolfsin's ceteris attacks his paribus
>>with the pcb's unavailable, why not . . .
There is nothing like unobtaniums to drive a fanatic to extremes :-(
In this case however, the HigherWire (the 'hybrid' 20v), straddles the voltage difference presented to cans by the BAL-BAL (~27v) and the SE-SE (~14v). I have been searching long and hard to discover why balanced sounds so much better thru my HD-600s.
If voltage turned out to be a major factor one might easily imagine a pcb using 860 and 610 being produced. The lower cost of the 860 offsets the higher cost of the 610 and one need not recable to get the advantages!
>>with the pcb's unavailable, why not . . .
There is nothing like unobtaniums to drive a fanatic to extremes :-(
In this case however, the HigherWire (the 'hybrid' 20v), straddles the voltage difference presented to cans by the BAL-BAL (~27v) and the SE-SE (~14v). I have been searching long and hard to discover why balanced sounds so much better thru my HD-600s.
If voltage turned out to be a major factor one might easily imagine a pcb using 860 and 610 being produced. The lower cost of the 860 offsets the higher cost of the 610 and one need not recable to get the advantages!
how much higher voltage? 20-25v caps are available, but not generally higher, i guess there is some barrier to this. generally you can get higher voltage in lower uf, so you could perhaps parallel a couple. i know you can get the kemet polymer tantalum smd in at least 20v, probably 25 and you could stack a few
Seriously considering HigherWire
A rework SE-SE could operate at 22v using 860+610 but those 16v electrolytics should probably be respecified. It also looks as if qusp may be right about the cloudy future of the LME49610. D-K notes the following for that item: "Part will become a non-stocking item when stock is depleted; minimums will apply. Order the quantity available or the quantity available plus a multiple of the minimum order quantity." Current stock is ~40 pieces. OTOH Mouser displays 'NEW at Mouser' for the 610.
The more I think about the higher voltage SE-SE the more inclined I am to build one. I would need to order the SOICs and a pair of those tiny cans. I already have the rest of the parts and a shunt I can adjust to 22v so I could give it a serious listen. I am still trying to explain why I experience bridged, balanced as being so superior with the HD-600s compared to SE.
What would you suggest, qusp, as the best part to replace those 16v capacitors?
I am going through CD after CD now with the BAL-BAL, the difference is that great compared to previous bridged but not balanced headamps. The wire is by far the best headamp I have used with the Senns. The LME49860 THD is very close to that of the OPA1632 and with the higher rails it would seem that if any single ended headamp could challenge the BAL-BAL it would be the HigherWire.
A rework SE-SE could operate at 22v using 860+610 but those 16v electrolytics should probably be respecified. It also looks as if qusp may be right about the cloudy future of the LME49610. D-K notes the following for that item: "Part will become a non-stocking item when stock is depleted; minimums will apply. Order the quantity available or the quantity available plus a multiple of the minimum order quantity." Current stock is ~40 pieces. OTOH Mouser displays 'NEW at Mouser' for the 610.
The more I think about the higher voltage SE-SE the more inclined I am to build one. I would need to order the SOICs and a pair of those tiny cans. I already have the rest of the parts and a shunt I can adjust to 22v so I could give it a serious listen. I am still trying to explain why I experience bridged, balanced as being so superior with the HD-600s compared to SE.
What would you suggest, qusp, as the best part to replace those 16v capacitors?
I am going through CD after CD now with the BAL-BAL, the difference is that great compared to previous bridged but not balanced headamps. The wire is by far the best headamp I have used with the Senns. The LME49860 THD is very close to that of the OPA1632 and with the higher rails it would seem that if any single ended headamp could challenge the BAL-BAL it would be the HigherWire.
what do you mean? the only reason these builds are happening are because there was rework pcbs available for a couple dollars each and they needed to be reworked anyway, so people are just having fun with them. a p2p or perfboard wire will be easily outperformed compared to the real thing measurements wise
i have a post for you re caps recommendations, but i gotta crash and have to double check, but probably the vishay oscon and the same brand nichicon polymer in the bom are the only half decent capacity polymers available in 25v+ you could also use a higher grade, but smaller capacitance SMD polymer cap like the AVX or Kemet polymer tantalum caps in 7343 size 100uf, perhaps put one on the bottom and one on top and then bulk up the local decoupling on the opamp supply pins by stacking a couple. thats basically what i intend to do with my bal-bal, but for reasons of making it more a low profile build, so i'll use 220uf top and bottom as i dont need the voltage, as i'll be running lower voltage portable .
I like the top and bottom for the BAL-BAL (but don't have a clue how to solder it) since the heatsinks take so much space anyway. Also like the stacking. Thanks.
Am not in a rush on the caps. I would really like adgr to be the one to report on this frankenwire since it was his idea, he has the parts, and being first to build the BAL-BAL gave me plenty of focus to last thru new years day
I need to drive the BAL-BAL from se inputs and listen under those conditions anyway.
Am not in a rush on the caps. I would really like adgr to be the one to report on this frankenwire since it was his idea, he has the parts, and being first to build the BAL-BAL gave me plenty of focus to last thru new years day
I need to drive the BAL-BAL from se inputs and listen under those conditions anyway.Thanks OPC.
I have received my BAL/SE kit.
Very excited. This will be my first kit using 240volt and SMD parts. I was a little surprised just how little the resistors are! I think I'll need a magnifing glass for this one. I hope I don't stuff it up.
I am grateful so mnay people here are willing to help me out on this kit. I hope it will be straight forward but my electronics love affair was tainted early on when Ibuilt my first FM transmitter that of coure never worked. I don't know anyone who has successfully built one of those FM Bugs! Anyhoo time has moved on and I am going into this one with full confidence in my unability and desire to learn new skills.
Wish me luck!
I have received my BAL/SE kit.
Very excited. This will be my first kit using 240volt and SMD parts. I was a little surprised just how little the resistors are! I think I'll need a magnifing glass for this one. I hope I don't stuff it up.
I am grateful so mnay people here are willing to help me out on this kit. I hope it will be straight forward but my electronics love affair was tainted early on when Ibuilt my first FM transmitter that of coure never worked. I don't know anyone who has successfully built one of those FM Bugs! Anyhoo time has moved on and I am going into this one with full confidence in my unability and desire to learn new skills.
Wish me luck!
Hi Guys,
It was an insanely busy and hectic couple of days leading up the the Christmas break, but I'm glad to say that absolutely every paid kit was shipped no later than the 22nd of December, so most people should be getting their kits in the next week or so!
I've attached an updated list with everything that has shipped, and I'll continue to update as I accept more payments and ship out more goodies.
The next step is the get the transistors in for the power amplifiers, and then I'll accept all the rest of the payments. This will happen over the next two weeks for sure.
null object:
You'll be fine! No need for luck. Just take your time and I'm confident it will go well.
I'm glad to hear it made it there safely!
Cheers,
Owen
It was an insanely busy and hectic couple of days leading up the the Christmas break, but I'm glad to say that absolutely every paid kit was shipped no later than the 22nd of December, so most people should be getting their kits in the next week or so!
I've attached an updated list with everything that has shipped, and I'll continue to update as I accept more payments and ship out more goodies.
The next step is the get the transistors in for the power amplifiers, and then I'll accept all the rest of the payments. This will happen over the next two weeks for sure.
null object:
You'll be fine! No need for luck. Just take your time and I'm confident it will go well.
I'm glad to hear it made it there safely!
Cheers,
Owen
Well is was wishful thinking I guess, are there plains to make more PCB's? Is it allowed to share the cad files, I could have a few made and donate to DIYA, or if someone in good standing that has the time wants to do it. Obviously folks wanting to try these if we are hacking up the first set
>>folks wanting to try these if we are hacking up the first set
I purchased the parts separately and had a power supply ready to go so was fortunate enough to be able to build the first BAL-BAL. While listening to that I began to contemplate how to use the single ended pcb's that required rework. I think 'hacking up the first set' is not quite descriptive of what is happening. There will never be more boards requiring rework made when perfect boards could be etched as easily. I think opc has hit a home run but may be exhausted by his performance.
I purchased the parts separately and had a power supply ready to go so was fortunate enough to be able to build the first BAL-BAL. While listening to that I began to contemplate how to use the single ended pcb's that required rework. I think 'hacking up the first set' is not quite descriptive of what is happening. There will never be more boards requiring rework made when perfect boards could be etched as easily. I think opc has hit a home run but may be exhausted by his performance.
I've hacked plenty boards and say that as a positive. But are there plans to have more boards made in the various configs ?
yeah but i think you missed that they werent being hacked up, there was a mistake on a run of the SE-SE boards from this run so just those pcbs needed to be rerun and as a result there were a heap of boards that were made available at $2 a throw because they needed rework to be usable, so we all snapped them up in less than a day i think!!
i dont see there being another run any time soon; given this is already a rerun with an update and variation. opc will need a break after all this and then hes got the rerun of the NTD1 (hint hint) he couldnt have foreseen the popularity of the headamps and power amps and i'm sure he'll be glad to see the back of it for a while.
how did you miss this one btw? there was plenty of time and leadup, then there were more boards than expected so it was reopened, then those sold out too
i dont see there being another run any time soon; given this is already a rerun with an update and variation. opc will need a break after all this and then hes got the rerun of the NTD1 (hint hint) he couldnt have foreseen the popularity of the headamps and power amps and i'm sure he'll be glad to see the back of it for a while.
how did you miss this one btw? there was plenty of time and leadup, then there were more boards than expected so it was reopened, then those sold out too
My wife was ill for a while, didn't have much time to research. Luckily she is in good recovery. Hopefully opc is open to letting someone else make a batch of boards for DIYA donations if he is under time restaint.Thanks for the info /history. I read the first page and it is quite a design, but as you said probably not a good idea to perfboard.