photo update
https://www.flickr.com/photos/54684593@N08/
Thanks to all. but sadly yellow to yellow secondary reads 57.8 VAC. while yellow to orange is 29.2 VAC. I guess that's that. What is SOL anyway? Can I use just use 1 transformer, 1 full bridge rectifier, 1 big capacitor to power 2 Wieners, or do I have to use 2 of each?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/54684593@N08/
Thanks to all. but sadly yellow to yellow secondary reads 57.8 VAC. while yellow to orange is 29.2 VAC. I guess that's that. What is SOL anyway? Can I use just use 1 transformer, 1 full bridge rectifier, 1 big capacitor to power 2 Wieners, or do I have to use 2 of each?
SOL = s**t outta luck. You could start peeling turns off the secondary of that toroid, which might mean having to pull and reinstall the primary... personally I'd just buy one of these:
RS-150-24 Mean Well | Mouser
And that's actually a pretty sweet looking amp. And it's already set up to drive LM3886 amplifier chips - someone doing a build with a couple of tomchr's Modulus boards might really want that case. I wouldn't scrap it just yet.
RS-150-24 Mean Well | Mouser
And that's actually a pretty sweet looking amp. And it's already set up to drive LM3886 amplifier chips - someone doing a build with a couple of tomchr's Modulus boards might really want that case. I wouldn't scrap it just yet.
Anyone made up their mind up for SQ and switch position? I still lean towards the 5-600kHz setting. Reproducing the sparkle intro on Chris Speeris Allura sounds the best on the lower frequency settings to me. 1000khz gives less treble quality and more heat in my setup. I have yet to make my mind up for the Mode position..
Gary,
Correct me if I am wrong, this SMPS is 24-0 V, not +-24 V. For confirmation, the Weiner does not require a +- rail? Since the TPA chip can work with a wide range of voltage, I can never tell. Thanks!
Regards,
Further to my post #466, and your reply (above), I thought that I should confirm that my order did arrive (...so I'm no longer anxious about you filling those other orders).
fyi - I won't be firing it up for a little while, since I still have to make a decision w.r.t. power supply and buy some misc items (I have some vintage receivers in need of refurb, but no "parts drawer" full of unused electronics). I do have a couple of 3116 boards already, and some wall-warts to be sacrificed for those, but I think that your board warrants a step-up w.r.t. power supply.
Thanks again for doing this,
Ron
I know you're all from the States or from Canada, but I can't help being impatient. I wonder how many days it'll take for the package to reach me. My original YJ-blue took 30 days from China to the Philippines. That was registered air-mail.
It's like being in the delivery room waiting for a grand-child to be born.
My diy reflow wiener, now with purdy through-hole components in place. Nearly there...
BK
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
BK
Lol, I had the same feeling Paugie! I think it took a week for it to arrive in Norway. China takes 3 weeks for comparison.
I had to connect my DAC's negative power input ground together with the amplifiers psu power out ground together. I had massive noise without it. Other than that its just plug'n play
I had to connect my DAC's negative power input ground together with the amplifiers psu power out ground together. I had massive noise without it. Other than that its just plug'n play
Last edited:
It happens when i either use the mute, standby and or disable the amp by using arduino's mute button on the buffaloII dac.
What are you using for a DMM?
Each input pin has a 30.1k resistor to ground, an ESD protector to ground, and a 1.5uF capacitor that feeds into a ferrite bead, and from there into the TPA. At DC, the ESD protector should be open circuit, the 1.5uF should be open circuit after voltages settle, and the only thing you should measure is the R.
I doubt the 1.5uF cap is blown (it's 50V or 63V rated, can't remember), the ESD protector trips at 36V, and the resistor will probably burn up around 50V.
My suspicion is blown TPA. If you connected the source negative to +24V, that would dump +24V into the audio inputs of the TPA. Absolute max rating on those pins is +6.3V.
Power up the amp... Grab your meter, hold negative on ground and measure both sides of FB1 through FB4. Both sides should measure the same voltage, and should measure somewhere around 3V. If you get anything other than 3V on the side of a FBx part facing the TPA, you've probably got a blown TPA.
Each input pin has a 30.1k resistor to ground, an ESD protector to ground, and a 1.5uF capacitor that feeds into a ferrite bead, and from there into the TPA. At DC, the ESD protector should be open circuit, the 1.5uF should be open circuit after voltages settle, and the only thing you should measure is the R.
I doubt the 1.5uF cap is blown (it's 50V or 63V rated, can't remember), the ESD protector trips at 36V, and the resistor will probably burn up around 50V.
My suspicion is blown TPA. If you connected the source negative to +24V, that would dump +24V into the audio inputs of the TPA. Absolute max rating on those pins is +6.3V.
Power up the amp... Grab your meter, hold negative on ground and measure both sides of FB1 through FB4. Both sides should measure the same voltage, and should measure somewhere around 3V. If you get anything other than 3V on the side of a FBx part facing the TPA, you've probably got a blown TPA.