The under $100 challenge

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
cotdt said:



i want both, and a lot of bass as well. what could be done?

Start by being realistic. Getting any type of quality for $100/pr is a challenge, and asking for bass extension, high SPL *and* good sound quality at that price point is expecting far too much.
There have been a lot of good ideas presented here representing a range of tradeoffs. At this point I would suggest picking one or two ideas and exploring them yourself to see how they match the tradeoffs you are willing to make. You seem to be expecting to get a pair of Avalons for $100, and it just aint gonna happen.
Either
a) re-evaluate your budget
or
b) learn to compromise

Ok, or c) forget DIY for now and comb ebay and the local classifieds and wait for someone to unload something at fire-sale prices.
 
ScottG said:



true.. there is however a world of difference between the sound quality on the 103e and even the best of the tangbands.. so IF you want higher spl's then the tangband is the way to go, but if you want excellent sound quality at moderate spl's then the fostex is the way to go..


Agreed, but to most people the tang-bands sound quite nice, and for a college dorm room I just figured that Higher SPL's would be more important than sound quality. I guess I'm assuming they will be using some kind of cheap reciever. But yes I agree with your take on the 103 vs tangband.
Joe
 
cotdt said:



i want both, and a lot of bass as well. what could be done?

You'll get a lot of bass with the drivers I mentioned in a bandpass enclosure.. If its done well the bass will even sound pretty good.

As to ultimate SPL's.. well that depends on what you consider to be loud. 90 db IS loud. The fostex 103e could probably handle double the apparent level i.e. 93db (1 watt/1 meter each) while still remaining essentially the same in sound quality with a decent vented alignment. At 96db+ I'd expect them to sound substantially worse - and soon become something ordinary (like a bose 3-piece system).

For a subjective reference a circular saw I believe operates at around 98 db (and I consider it painfully loud).

What you almost certainly will not get (with anything under 100 US) is low freq. extension (much output below 30 Hz). And even if it were possible it would almost certainly be EXTREMELY distorted.
 
prerunnerv6 said:



Any pictures or details? Which vifa tweeters? What x-over method did you use? Did you just use a cap for the tweeter? If so, what value?

Is that enough questions? :)


sorry I missed this post,
I did not save the notes I made for that project. The cab was sealed and outter dimensions were about 22"H x 10" W x 11" D (from memory)
I let the fullranger ran fullrange and the tweeter was cross around to 2nd order 10khz padded down a bit.
 
cotdt said:
Thanks guys, I will be going the high-efficiency fullrange route. It won't really pack as much bass punch as I originally wanted, but I really want that high efficiency since I forgot to mention that part of that $100 budget had to pay for the amplifier.


If you get it all for $100, PLEASE post what you came up with.

I come up with may $60 for the Pioneer 8" FR's, piezo tweeters, and resistors. Then maybe $40 for a decent used 50watt x 2 home receiver at a pawn shop or something.

It can be done. If you save up another $50, the receiver amp can be brand new.
 
cotdt said:
Thanks guys, I will be going the high-efficiency fullrange route. It won't really pack as much bass punch as I originally wanted, but I really want that high efficiency since I forgot to mention that part of that $100 budget had to pay for the amplifier.

Money for nothing, and the chicks for free, eh? Good luck. :)

I'd recommend buying a used stereo receiver from a thrift store as the amplifier. If you are picky, you could even pull the amplifier modules and make a new enclosure for them. If you want DIY, a simple chipamp would probably fit the bill for cost, like the LM3886 boards from http://www.chipamp.com

peace,
sam
 
It doesn't have to be a toroidal transformer, regular iron core work fine, if they have the right taps. Surplus store would be the best bet.

But you're right, you'd have to do a little hunting to find a good one at the right price, but they are out there. A used receiver would probably be the cheapest overall option, if DIY isn't a requirement for the receiver.

peace,
sam
 
I'm not saying that chip amps aren't great for the money; it's what I have, along with the Adire Bang! speakers I mentioned earlier in the thread. My source is currently a lightly modified Sony D-2 discman, soon to be "upgraded" to a NEC CDX-502 w/ a TDA1543A DAC. So far I only have $300 or so into my system (including cabinets, metal, connectors, et al), and it was built conservatively, but not bargain basement (custom metal chassis for the amp).

Anyways, the main thing to gleam from this thread is that $100 for speakers (minus cabinets) and amplification is a near impossible task, I think the fullrange w/ helper tweeter and a pawn shop / thrift store receiver is about the only way to do it.
 
I have $30 into my TB speakers.... I have a Rotel RX-203 that I gutted of every thing possible. I put in some gold plated RCA jacks I had laying around, ran Cat5 internally in the amplifier for signal straight to the input of the amplifier. Then from the amplifier out to the RC network and the speaker "posts". The speaker "posts" are made from a block of plastic stuff with four solid copper bars coated in pure silver that are from some terminal things I tore apart. The Cat5 connects all of that stuff.... Then my speaker wire and RCA's are 9259 Belden (almost as nice as 89259, just really hard to solder onto because it melts easy). I just the ends from an old Rat Shack Mini to RCA for the ends on the 9259 interconnects I made. I also replaced the power cord with a heavier duty I believe 12 guage twisted, with a Bryant plug on the end. (Bryant is Hubbell, very good stuff)

Why do I have mini to RCA? Well believe it or not my IBM's sound card with Foobar2000 has not even been close to the weakest link in my little $40 desktop setup. You would be impressed to hear it at 96khz resampled. You might think resampling does nothing but WRONG. It makes a noticable difference in the higher than hmm 130hz frequency range, and it makes an enormous difference under that... I have no reason as to why but it changed every thing. I also bypass windows crap and straight to the soundcard... Instead of a Pot on the amplifier (it sucked) I can control the volume of my laptop via keys on the keyboard. You might think the keys on the keyboard would go with the Windows Volume control right? WRONG! The volume is 100% dependent from the software volume... I did tests and found out at any volume it sounds just as good as any other volume with the pot or with the laptop. Well it never sounds like there is a lack of production in the line level of voltage. The cool thing about removing the pot is it cleared up tracking/timing issues.

Where does the other $10 come from? Well I made "Stubby" short stands. They cost less then $10 for the both of them.

dorm12.jpg


Yup $40 will rock your socks for a desktop, you would be surprized. However I am building a bunch of other better stuff...

(Picture was taken before removal of the pot)
 
Too late to jump in?

If the wood for any type of cabinet is free, and you've got acces to the required skills, then I'd highly recommend RonC's A126 horns with Fostex 126E. Might not be kickas-s enough bass for room shaking house /rap; but in the right room and with a decent chip amp (e.g. 4780 ) you'll be amazed.

Of course to meet the hunderd bucks including amp is a bit of a stretch, but you never know what you might find at your local thrift shop/ garage sales for $20-30.
 
Hi guys

I made a mistake in my calcs for the OB speakers ITO the bass. Since I see the suggestion was completely ignored I don't know what help this correction will be, but here goes anyway. I mistakenly calculated the bass drivers too high off the ground (same height as the mid-rangers). So here goes:

- The specs for the Goldwood GW-212/8 12" OEM woofer 8 ohm is that gives you +/- 103dB @ 40Hz and +/- 107dB @ 45Hz.

- The Goldwood GW-215/40/8 15" OEM woofer gives figures of +/- 108dB @ 40Hz and +/- 105dB @ 35Hz. It is down to about +/- 100dB @ 30Hz.

Just thought I'd make the corrections for those who were interested.

Enjoy,
Deon
 
ignored..

I don't think anyone intentionaly ignored you, just that pretty much all of your suggestions (and everyone else's) have been "over budget" as 4 pages in we learn from "cotdt" that for under $100 it must include an amplifier.

There seems to be no meeting the needs, regardless of very good suggestions made by pretty much everyone who has responded. It can be done, but I think would require some exceptional finds (I've had a few), or a change in parameters to a more realistic solution.

If used drivers are ok, I'd go with simple open baffles (as I have) and a used reciever or amplifier (again as I have). I was able to get a Yammy B2($40 USD equivqalent---not typical at all , as they often sell in the $400 USD range) and a set of Oxford 12s (gifted, used), a Xover and tweeters (salvaged), and baffles ($40 USD). Or perhaps some mass loaded quarterwave transmission lines.

Next thing you, know cotdt will want an elgar dcs/good transport included in the $100 budget. Sometimes folks don't understand reality until it bites 'em in the ***.
:hot:
g'day, eh
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.