I talked to a carpenter today who said he would build it for me. he said he could make the port out of wood on a lathe. I am unsure what felt to use for the back panel. i saw a post saying something about carpets in 90s ford cars. can i use any thin carpet out of a vw or audi or does it need to be thick shag carpet.
Hmm, vehicle carpet underlayment, yes, assuming it's still felt or similar; carpet not so much IME due to its hard backing for durability.
Many decades long personal favorite is the pioneer's 1" heat/AC duct fiberglass insulation [AKA OC703] and layer on more if desired, though IME almost never required: OC703 - Google Search
Otherwise non backed [or peel it off] in-wall insulation.
Many decades long personal favorite is the pioneer's 1" heat/AC duct fiberglass insulation [AKA OC703] and layer on more if desired, though IME almost never required: OC703 - Google Search
Otherwise non backed [or peel it off] in-wall insulation.
Not familiar with any but felt and the 'cheap' 3/4" - 1" thick foam that's best used as a 'waffle' absorber mounted loose in the cab, i.e. a sheet that loosely fits in the cab diagonally behind the driver and ~1.5x longer than the inside of the cab, pushed down to create the 'W'.
That said, some have used 'bubble wrap', so if very similar may work, though only one way to know for sure.
That said, some have used 'bubble wrap', so if very similar may work, though only one way to know for sure.
I checked the underlay in the audi but it did not seem to be suitable, was yellow foam fused with the carpet.
I pulled this underlay from a mk4 vw golf, from the driver and passenger footwells. looks like 1/2 inch wool felt, with occasional small lumps of foam in the felt. is this suitable for the purpose, and is pva wood glue suitable to attach it to the plywood. do i need to put felt on the bottom rectangle of the metronome? i see no mention of it.
I pulled this underlay from a mk4 vw golf, from the driver and passenger footwells. looks like 1/2 inch wool felt, with occasional small lumps of foam in the felt. is this suitable for the purpose, and is pva wood glue suitable to attach it to the plywood. do i need to put felt on the bottom rectangle of the metronome? i see no mention of it.
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Not going to try to blow through it tonight, i washed the surface mould off it with a tap so it will take a while to dry out. If i was to guess at effort it would be possible to blow through but at great difficulty. it's like any tightly matted felt.
i looked up rubber cement and all i found was expensive vulcanizing solution for punctures. i figure the glue type doesn't really matter though.
good to know about no damping near the vent. i thought that would be prone to vibrate as it has all the bass passing through it.
i looked up rubber cement and all i found was expensive vulcanizing solution for punctures. i figure the glue type doesn't really matter though.
good to know about no damping near the vent. i thought that would be prone to vibrate as it has all the bass passing through it.
I remembered my jvc speakers that had the drivers mounted from the outside, despite having the gasket pointed the wrong direction and realised that this would solve my metronome stuffing access problem.
is it ok to mount my visaton bg-20 from the outside without using the gasket, or with a diy gasket. that way i could instruct the carpenter to glue the cabinet together and not worry about forcing it apart down the line.
is it ok to mount my visaton bg-20 from the outside without using the gasket, or with a diy gasket. that way i could instruct the carpenter to glue the cabinet together and not worry about forcing it apart down the line.
Here i get it at home depot.
The front gasket is just momentum. They have long been used to hold the surround to the basket on the front and ar eonly used because that is what was used in the past and costs are near nothing. I have trimmed them flush with the basket in the past, but you do not want to completely remove them.
dave
The front gasket is just momentum. They have long been used to hold the surround to the basket on the front and ar eonly used because that is what was used in the past and costs are near nothing. I have trimmed them flush with the basket in the past, but you do not want to completely remove them.
dave
Use pan head bolts/screws with a lockwasher; proper torque is essential for best sealing and neoprene requires very little: How to Use a Lock Washer - The Home Depot
The carpenter almost completed one cabinet today, but made a mistake on the small end which is 4x4" when it should be 4x5.5"
He cut the bass port on a lathe. I am impressed by the appearance and will follow his suggestion of comparing the audio of the corrected next cabinet with the original to see if the flawed dimension will matter.
He fitted a loudspeaker brace as requested, but did not anchor it to the back, leaving room for the felt on the back panel solely. i suspect this may not be ideal, but better than nothing.
I had to collect more felt from a local mechanic to complete the second cab. it was waterlogged so i have it drying on a radiator.
He cut the bass port on a lathe. I am impressed by the appearance and will follow his suggestion of comparing the audio of the corrected next cabinet with the original to see if the flawed dimension will matter.
He fitted a loudspeaker brace as requested, but did not anchor it to the back, leaving room for the felt on the back panel solely. i suspect this may not be ideal, but better than nothing.
I had to collect more felt from a local mechanic to complete the second cab. it was waterlogged so i have it drying on a radiator.
this picture is of the faulty metronome. the top square is actually 5.5x5.5 inches not 4x4 as stated earlier.
I have installed drivers in both just now and am using them.
the mass loading is different to listen to, like when you get into a car and slam the door and your ears pop. perhaps i will get used to it. I used duct tape as a gasket for the drivers.
edit: I have enclosed the plans i edited from someone else to show the bg20 dimensions.
I have installed drivers in both just now and am using them.
the mass loading is different to listen to, like when you get into a car and slam the door and your ears pop. perhaps i will get used to it. I used duct tape as a gasket for the drivers.
edit: I have enclosed the plans i edited from someone else to show the bg20 dimensions.
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Minor volume differences are inaudible and even fairly major ones can be balanced with damping.
I find your 'take' on how they sound unique, so can only assume it's an internal damping 'problem' you need to sort out as pipe/horn mass loading 'tightens up' the [mid]bass BW, yet adds life-like 'fullness' that many recordings lack, so assume it's the latter that needs toning down to 'taste'.
I find your 'take' on how they sound unique, so can only assume it's an internal damping 'problem' you need to sort out as pipe/horn mass loading 'tightens up' the [mid]bass BW, yet adds life-like 'fullness' that many recordings lack, so assume it's the latter that needs toning down to 'taste'.