that'd likely be a bigger box to take full advantage of the driver's bass extension - any reason that an MLTL like Pensil, or even BLH like the FHXL might not work for you?
of course, the FHXL does not have a tiny footprint - one of the 'nomes salient advantages
there is even a compact floorstander design by Dave that works quite nicely - I rotate a pair in my 5.1 system / harem
of course, the FHXL does not have a tiny footprint - one of the 'nomes salient advantages
there is even a compact floorstander design by Dave that works quite nicely - I rotate a pair in my 5.1 system / harem
Metronomes, metronomes and more metronomes
Whilst looking for a reasonably simple but interesting first speaker build project a little while ago I came across the Metronome and followed the trail of information to this excellent thread. I've been reading through it and other information sources ever since and am now fully committed to building a pair.
Whilst researching the various designs for different drivers it became apparent that there was a wealth of information available but that it was well distributed - so much so that it was difficult to find what I was looking for. For this reason I collected all the specifications in this thread and the Frual-Horn website together as I went along and the result is the table attached (.PDF and zipped .xls formats ) - 42 different sets of dimensions in all.
View attachment Metronome Dims.pdf
View attachment Metronome Dims.zip
Even before I'd finished reading the thread I ordered a pair of drivers - Fostex FF165wk - these have been breaking in for about 4 days now. Once my Birch ply arrives and I've finished the design, the build will start. However I inevitably have questions for those with more experience before I proceed:
I've read numerous things about the performance and range of the FF165wk but am still unsure if it will need an additional tweeter? If so any suggestions?
This is my first venture into serous HiFi and so I am currently using a cheep and basic Sony amp - will this be or can it me made to be remotely usable - would additional series resistance help? I have a feeling that now I've stared on this path I'm going to have to build a new amp in the not so distant future...
Matt
Whilst looking for a reasonably simple but interesting first speaker build project a little while ago I came across the Metronome and followed the trail of information to this excellent thread. I've been reading through it and other information sources ever since and am now fully committed to building a pair.
Whilst researching the various designs for different drivers it became apparent that there was a wealth of information available but that it was well distributed - so much so that it was difficult to find what I was looking for. For this reason I collected all the specifications in this thread and the Frual-Horn website together as I went along and the result is the table attached (.PDF and zipped .xls formats ) - 42 different sets of dimensions in all.
View attachment Metronome Dims.pdf
View attachment Metronome Dims.zip
Even before I'd finished reading the thread I ordered a pair of drivers - Fostex FF165wk - these have been breaking in for about 4 days now. Once my Birch ply arrives and I've finished the design, the build will start. However I inevitably have questions for those with more experience before I proceed:
I've read numerous things about the performance and range of the FF165wk but am still unsure if it will need an additional tweeter? If so any suggestions?
This is my first venture into serous HiFi and so I am currently using a cheep and basic Sony amp - will this be or can it me made to be remotely usable - would additional series resistance help? I have a feeling that now I've stared on this path I'm going to have to build a new amp in the not so distant future...
Matt
This is what I wanted to hear, the main reason I didn't go for the FF225 was the need for a tweeter
I thought this would be the case, the Mets are likely to be the first of many incremental upgrades of my system. I suspect I've just passed the point of no return on a long and slippery slope...
Thanks, I'll start researching amps next. Before I get side-tracked on this however its time to finish the design of the Mets, CAD them up and generate the tool paths for the CNC router while I wait for my ply delivery.
Matt
Do yourself a favor and get a TPA3116 based amp like the SMSL SA-60. It costs I think $80 on Amazon, and probably available in the UK locally too. I bought one for a desktop system and while I still had it home I put it into my main system in place of my tube amp and quite honestly it sounded every bit as good. I'm using it now with the Lance (FF85WK) and also tried it with my Frugel Horns (MA7.3).
You can DIY one for less, but at the price why would you?
You can DIY one for less, but at the price why would you?
PP or SET? I assume PP, which with a decent modest DF SS amp and a little resistance can fool most folks, but wondering if 3-4 ohms of non-inductance series resistance would mimic SET well enough.
GM
It is a DHT PP 6B4G amp, so a bit of a hybrid between the two. Directly heated triodes, like the 300B, 2A3 and the 6B4G are a large part of the SET sound, but in PP for more power. No negative feedback in my amp. It started life as an ST-70. Nothing left of the original except the chassis and the trannies.
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Hmm, guess I need to get a refresher course in amp design basics as I thought PPs were basically a -fb loop, though I don't remember it being described quite that way.
Regardless, to me, PP equates with a low output impedance relative to a SET, i.e. DF = < ~16 Vs < ~ 4, so what is yours?
GM
Regardless, to me, PP equates with a low output impedance relative to a SET, i.e. DF = < ~16 Vs < ~ 4, so what is yours?
GM
No idea really. I put this together 10 years ago and didn't know much about design, and I still don't. It worked and sounded really good, much better than the EL34 pentode design with NFB but less power. It plays loud enough for my taste, and in my room. In a larger room it would probably not be loud enough for some people. And yes, it is Beautiful and clean.
interesting and perhaps telling 
The Tpa 3116 amp board I recently tried on a lark, proved to be less than pleasing. Sounding Harsh & Shrill.
Even had ugly/worrying Turn On noises. Not acceptable, let alone good.
Curiously a same make Chi Fi (YJ) ta2020 chip amp performs flawlessly.
Dead silent, with good bass, decent presence and highs.
No untoward noises on power on Or off.. Albeit about 1/2 the output power .
Who knows.. possibly a lucky assembly of Fake parts on the TA one. Likely that, or some variant of that reason?
The Tpa 3116 amp board I recently tried on a lark, proved to be less than pleasing. Sounding Harsh & Shrill.
Even had ugly/worrying Turn On noises. Not acceptable, let alone good.
Curiously a same make Chi Fi (YJ) ta2020 chip amp performs flawlessly.
Dead silent, with good bass, decent presence and highs.
No untoward noises on power on Or off.. Albeit about 1/2 the output power .
Who knows.. possibly a lucky assembly of Fake parts on the TA one. Likely that, or some variant of that reason?
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