bluegti said:
If we assume that the unspecified Zd for the JX92 met is 50% & that you use 18mm BB to build it, then the baffle width at the driver is 6 7/16". This isn't all that different. Still a supraBaffle might well be indicated to reduce the constriction the driver magnet causes.
You could also get the width out to pretty close to 7 1/2" by adding a (close to) central front-to-back driver/cabinet brace.
dave
Attachments
FE127E Metronome Questions
Does the 'nome need a brace behind the driver for a FE127E?
How should I line and stuff the enclosure? I have some 1/2" Acoustic Foam. It isn't enough to line the entire enclosure though.
In a related topic, anyone build a FE167E version yet? I have mine in the recommended bass reflex enclosure. I was originally thinking about building a TL like one from Bob Brines, but I like the looks of the 'nomes. I've heard the TL's and really liked them. I'm wondering how they would compare.
Does the 'nome need a brace behind the driver for a FE127E?
How should I line and stuff the enclosure? I have some 1/2" Acoustic Foam. It isn't enough to line the entire enclosure though.
In a related topic, anyone build a FE167E version yet? I have mine in the recommended bass reflex enclosure. I was originally thinking about building a TL like one from Bob Brines, but I like the looks of the 'nomes. I've heard the TL's and really liked them. I'm wondering how they would compare.
Re: FE127E Metronome Questions
bluegti said:How should I line and stuff the enclosure? I have some 1/2" Acoustic Foam. It isn't enough to line the entire enclosure though.My experience: 0.5" foam on the back panel only! I lined the entire enclosure, then had to cut it open to pull the foam off the front & sides.
Best to make the port baffle removable to permit access later.
Cheers, Jim
FE167E Metronome Dimensions
According to the Metronome Table the dimensions for a FE167E, 207E, and Hemp FR8 are all the same with a line length of 60 inches. When you add in the top, bottom and feet you are somewhere around 65 inches.
I want to build them out of Baltic Birch which comes in 60x60 inch sheets for $50. I priced out a 4x8 sheet of Appleply (American equivalent faced with Maple face) and it costs $135.
Since the FE167E is a smaller driver, are there dimensions that would allow me to use the BB with good results.
According to the Metronome Table the dimensions for a FE167E, 207E, and Hemp FR8 are all the same with a line length of 60 inches. When you add in the top, bottom and feet you are somewhere around 65 inches.
I want to build them out of Baltic Birch which comes in 60x60 inch sheets for $50. I priced out a 4x8 sheet of Appleply (American equivalent faced with Maple face) and it costs $135.
Since the FE167E is a smaller driver, are there dimensions that would allow me to use the BB with good results.
Looks like a dimensioning typo on :
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/metronomeFE167-1v0-map.pdf
The chamber height is listed at 68" instead of the chart example of 60". Also, the other 167e link at the bottom of the chart page is broken.
Thanks for all the help/info.
-Dwight
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/metronomeFE167-1v0-map.pdf
The chamber height is listed at 68" instead of the chart example of 60". Also, the other 167e link at the bottom of the chart page is broken.
Thanks for all the help/info.
-Dwight
morgandc said:
I will ask Madisound if they can fix that. The z should not be there on their page.
The transliteration of the Greek ∑ is S. My guess is that someone decided the letter Z looked closest to the Greek ∑ and the driver was called FE168eZ, now they have further confused things by appending ∑ spelled out (ie FE168e∑ ∑ ), They should just call it FE168es, or FE168e∑, or FE168eSigma.
</rant>
dave
Hmmm, the 167e link at the bottom is broken too.
I want to clarify, when you say use the plans for the 167 and just change the port. Do you mean to use the dimensions and all from the 167 plans/table entry?!?! or just use the example of the plans from the 167 and adjust for all of the 168 table entries?
As a first time builder, I don't mind doing the math/geometry to get the rest of the dimensions based on the table, but would like to have some confidence that the speaker will sound encouragingly good so I continue on in this hobby. I have been oscillating between the 126/127 and the 168eSigma and was leaning towards the 168e so that I could use the driver in the Spawn series for testing too if I continue on as well as I liked the height/driver look.
Recommendations/Comments?
-Dwight
I want to clarify, when you say use the plans for the 167 and just change the port. Do you mean to use the dimensions and all from the 167 plans/table entry?!?! or just use the example of the plans from the 167 and adjust for all of the 168 table entries?
As a first time builder, I don't mind doing the math/geometry to get the rest of the dimensions based on the table, but would like to have some confidence that the speaker will sound encouragingly good so I continue on in this hobby. I have been oscillating between the 126/127 and the 168eSigma and was leaning towards the 168e so that I could use the driver in the Spawn series for testing too if I continue on as well as I liked the height/driver look.
Recommendations/Comments?
-Dwight
planet10 said:
Erm... nope.
You are totally right regarding the Cyrillic to Western alphabet conversion from "Sigma" to "S".
But I have a couple boxes from Fostex, and also a couple of their accompanying datasheets that clearly spell FE108EZ, with a western Zee. I also have another set of Fostex prints spelling the "Sigma" as the greek sigma letter.
<rant>
Now, whether Fostex did the change on purpose, just because of lack of knowledge either about western phonetics or cyrilic to western equivalences, or if the box contractor just misprinted it, or didn't have the typeset to print a Sigma and decided the sigma was just a Z with the wrong number of wiggles
, I think only Mr.Fostex can answer for that.</rant>
EDIT: Definitely FE168E(Sigma)(Sigma) is not right...
Gastón
planet10 said:
I am happy to report that a mail to Madisound has resulted in news that these names are being updated...
Hopefully that will avoid future confusion.
In NA at least Madisound is the best placei know to buy stock drivers, and have always been very helpful & accomodating... their reaction to this has provided an exclaimation point.
dave