Hi Scott,
Thanks for clearing that up. When an FH2 was mentioned, I began to wonder if I was finally losing it (no snide remarks from you other guys!) as I certainly didn't remember a design with that designation.
Best Regards,
TerryO
FWIW, the 2 most popular drivers for which P10 has shipped kits are the Fostex FE126E and Mark Audio Alpair 7.3 - 2 quite different sounding drivers in any enclosure. The CHR70.3 should certainly be on a short list of candidates for this enclosure as well.
As Scott says, there were some working plans with that internal designation, but they were set aside when Fostex revised their FE series a couple of years back. Not such a bad thing as it turns out, the FH3 has been quite successful.
Thanks for all the info, guys. Let's save the Visaton drivers for some other projects and go for higher quality and better fit for these.
Is a detailed PDF, etc. drawing available for the FH3? I tried looking for it in the beginning of the thread and bumped into some dead links, but didn't find what I was looking for.
Although, it wouldn't be the first time I missed something like that. I am, after all, already half blind..
-Sale
Is a detailed PDF, etc. drawing available for the FH3? I tried looking for it in the beginning of the thread and bumped into some dead links, but didn't find what I was looking for.
Although, it wouldn't be the first time I missed something like that. I am, after all, already half blind..
-Sale
Thanks.
How much of a difference would it make for me to build a pair out of pine, not plywood?
-Sale
Sure. Pine is a relatively soft wood and I've noticed that key elements in working with it are sharp blades/bits in the saw and milling, with not too much haste in feeding the blade through the material, esp. when working in certain diagonals and across the grain, when exiting the work piece. If the baffle contributes a lot to the overall performance of the mids/mid-highs, it'll probably have some damping effect. Maybe. We'll see
-Sale
-Sale
As Scott notes, experience with working with solid woods would be critical with this design, as the side panels require approx 4.5 ft^2 of material each. If you're confident enough and can find 18" wide & perfectly flat pine boards, or laminated panels, I can't see why not try.
Easy for me to say - I've built amplifier and turntable plinths from solid wood, but of the hundreds of speaker enclosures I've built or shipped kits for, I've yet to fabricate any from solid wood.
With careful nesting of the curved shapes, it's possible to yield 2 full pairs of side panels from a single 4x8ft of plywood . The side panels for Planet10 flat pack kits are CNC machined including dadoes to assist alignment of interior panels. If cutting by hand, I'd suggest fabricating a template for side panels from 1/4 or 1/2" MDF, rough cutting with jigsaw and finishing up with pattern following bit on router. Dadoes aren't necessary, but I find them quite useful, and would posit they provide much more glue surface area and structural integrity than biscuits, Festool dominoes, dowels, etc.
Easy for me to say - I've built amplifier and turntable plinths from solid wood, but of the hundreds of speaker enclosures I've built or shipped kits for, I've yet to fabricate any from solid wood.
With careful nesting of the curved shapes, it's possible to yield 2 full pairs of side panels from a single 4x8ft of plywood . The side panels for Planet10 flat pack kits are CNC machined including dadoes to assist alignment of interior panels. If cutting by hand, I'd suggest fabricating a template for side panels from 1/4 or 1/2" MDF, rough cutting with jigsaw and finishing up with pattern following bit on router. Dadoes aren't necessary, but I find them quite useful, and would posit they provide much more glue surface area and structural integrity than biscuits, Festool dominoes, dowels, etc.
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I'm going to attempt building these from laminated panels, probably. Solid woods tend to be troublesome exactly due to drying factors, ie. cracking, warping, etc. and I just don't have the patience to cut down one or two of the largest trees in the back yard and wait a few years for the moisture to escape from the wood, although cutting them down has been the plan for two years.
Would be cool, though..
-Sale
Would be cool, though..
-Sale
All my audio gear is back home whilst working abroad, but I find myself pining for a small amp and speakers after 6 months of the O2 Amp/Dac+Beyers. The combo is brilliant, but not exactly conducive to walking around the concrete and tiled rooms that is my home from home.....
I am very tempted to bring in a set of MA 7.3s to build a set of FH3, and a decent chip amp, as what I bring here stays, and can only come in by suitcase. Sourcing BB will be fun, but more possible than sourcing drivers or amps (local definition of stereo is 500w chinaclone PA Amp+big cabs+ generator)... the notion is to use the O2 as pre...
Anyhow, given the constraints of a solid surfaced room 3.6x3m, am I presuming to much to that the FH3 will be less prone to irritating the hell out of me with room modes given it's FR?
It will not be for party level stuff, and I'm more partial to Pat Metheny than Thrash Metal so music should not choke the driver...
I am very tempted to bring in a set of MA 7.3s to build a set of FH3, and a decent chip amp, as what I bring here stays, and can only come in by suitcase. Sourcing BB will be fun, but more possible than sourcing drivers or amps (local definition of stereo is 500w chinaclone PA Amp+big cabs+ generator)... the notion is to use the O2 as pre...
Anyhow, given the constraints of a solid surfaced room 3.6x3m, am I presuming to much to that the FH3 will be less prone to irritating the hell out of me with room modes given it's FR?
It will not be for party level stuff, and I'm more partial to Pat Metheny than Thrash Metal so music should not choke the driver...
Boblamont,
MA 7.3s in a set of FH3 is a real nice combo. Stuffing adjustment and room placement can help with getting the preferred sound. If you want to mate the speakers with a low cost small tube amp you can take a look at the APPJ version of the Miniwatt N3 - given the small size and weight (2.6 Kg), shipping should be much less cost/challenge vs a regular tube amp. However the SPL won't be too high; otherwise Class-D is an option too.
MA 7.3s in a set of FH3 is a real nice combo. Stuffing adjustment and room placement can help with getting the preferred sound. If you want to mate the speakers with a low cost small tube amp you can take a look at the APPJ version of the Miniwatt N3 - given the small size and weight (2.6 Kg), shipping should be much less cost/challenge vs a regular tube amp. However the SPL won't be too high; otherwise Class-D is an option too.
Forgot about the versatility of it regards stuffing, very good point...
Tube amp is a no-no as it would probably get destroyed in handling on the way in and be impossible to fix where I'm working... Will have trouble enough convincing the clutzes at border control not to go prodding the driver cones....
All the D amps I've seen are either too underpowered or overpowered (Lepai, Hypex), so will need a bit more digging I think possibly a 2050 variant...
Thanks for that anyhow
Tube amp is a no-no as it would probably get destroyed in handling on the way in and be impossible to fix where I'm working... Will have trouble enough convincing the clutzes at border control not to go prodding the driver cones....
All the D amps I've seen are either too underpowered or overpowered (Lepai, Hypex), so will need a bit more digging I think possibly a 2050 variant...
Thanks for that anyhow
Here's mine! ...thanks so much to everyone!! Total cost so far, $120!!!!
So what kind of finish?
They're 7.2's, I got a deal off Mr Darcher, and they didn't really fit, hence the curly wood thing - I love them...
So what kind of finish?
They're 7.2's, I got a deal off Mr Darcher, and they didn't really fit, hence the curly wood thing - I love them...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thick baffle
Hello all
I've got all my pieces of wood (18mm birch ply) ready to build some Frugel Horns but it has struck me that when I drop the drivers in the 95mm holes their baskets are only about 20mm 'deep' and there isn't much clearance (about 5mm) around the basket. It's hard to explain, I'll try to post a photo tomorrow, but it looks like the basket of the driver hardly emerges from the 18mm baffle. The drivers are cheap Chinese Guide Sound ones that have been discussed on here before.
Does this matter? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I'm new to this. If it does then is mounting them from the back an option? Any other suggestions?
Thanks in anticipation
Hello all
I've got all my pieces of wood (18mm birch ply) ready to build some Frugel Horns but it has struck me that when I drop the drivers in the 95mm holes their baskets are only about 20mm 'deep' and there isn't much clearance (about 5mm) around the basket. It's hard to explain, I'll try to post a photo tomorrow, but it looks like the basket of the driver hardly emerges from the 18mm baffle. The drivers are cheap Chinese Guide Sound ones that have been discussed on here before.
Does this matter? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I'm new to this. If it does then is mounting them from the back an option? Any other suggestions?
Thanks in anticipation
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