Funny you should ask.....
I've been working on something like that for a while now...got several ideas, but nothing quite sawdust-worthy just yet.
Go mikey, go mikey, hey hey go mikey!!!!
I'll cheer you on, and if you need someone to build a cab or two... can do...
I'd given the titanic 10 a serious thought for a TH sub awhile back, as I could get something reasonable under 200 liters. What driver(s) are your ideas centered around?
Looking at 8's primarily. I like the Apex Junior Super 8 (nearly RIP...only 30 or so left...so jump if you want any), Dayton's Classic 8, and some of the car drivers out there, but those are off the list cause I'm trying to stay under $100 for a pair of drivers.
Cabinet size will wind up less than 12"X24"X32", the tune will be between 25 and 30 Hz. Little drivers just can't go much lower without the bad noises happening all too frequently. One of Jack's amps is a great fit, I'm trying to fold a cabinet up with room for a plate amp too, but that wastes a lot of space. Ideally there won't be any access panels, because in my experience, no matter what I try, they always leak.
Anyhow, I should have something finished before too much longer. I need some of these too. I've got a smaller and larger project on deck currently.
That would be davy.... Yea six HL10c loaded horns makes some noise....
what exactly are you doing?
What am I doing?
Basically, I chopped the design from post 24
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...c-5100neo-loaded-20hz-horn-3.html#post2135015
into 4 identical quarters - so I can lift them individually. They work out 42 x 44 x 160 cm each. That is slightly longer then the plan because I have inset the rear plate to protect the speakons and have inset the front to add a grill and foam. Internally it should be essentially the same volume and path length etc. per driver.
Making 6 because I have 6 3015lf drivers left over.
I am very curious how they'll do...
Regards, Ben
Basically, I chopped the design from post 24
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...c-5100neo-loaded-20hz-horn-3.html#post2135015
into 4 identical quarters - so I can lift them individually. They work out 42 x 44 x 160 cm each. That is slightly longer then the plan because I have inset the rear plate to protect the speakons and have inset the front to add a grill and foam. Internally it should be essentially the same volume and path length etc. per driver.
Making 6 because I have 6 3015lf drivers left over.
I am very curious how they'll do...
Regards, Ben
hmmm....
keep in mind that post 24 was just for justin's obvious infatuation with 20hz@140... That was the reason for the reverse taper. Somehow I doubt that you have the same need?
A t-tqwp at 1000cm2 and 300cm long would probably suit you better. (roughly 18x18x60) Keep in mind that when trying to put a 3015lf in a TH below 40hz, that excursion in the passband starts to be an issue. (remember how in the big box you can't push to 63v without exceeding xmax?? It's even worse in a 20hz box) The 1000/300 t-tqwp is only good to 40v, but then 6 of them gets you 133db flat to 25hz in 2pi. Considering the 28hz dub, etc... kind of music, that seems reasonable.
20hz is just a tough animal to tame in a horn that is still portable....
keep in mind that post 24 was just for justin's obvious infatuation with 20hz@140... That was the reason for the reverse taper. Somehow I doubt that you have the same need?
A t-tqwp at 1000cm2 and 300cm long would probably suit you better. (roughly 18x18x60) Keep in mind that when trying to put a 3015lf in a TH below 40hz, that excursion in the passband starts to be an issue. (remember how in the big box you can't push to 63v without exceeding xmax?? It's even worse in a 20hz box) The 1000/300 t-tqwp is only good to 40v, but then 6 of them gets you 133db flat to 25hz in 2pi. Considering the 28hz dub, etc... kind of music, that seems reasonable.
20hz is just a tough animal to tame in a horn that is still portable....
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Quite right.
I don't at this point in time need 140 dB @20 Hz. Low to mid 130s would be nice.
But I do need a system for electronic, dnb and dubstep indoor gigs with 50 - 200 people.
Therefore I decided to use your design, just build a smaller number.
Am I wrong in assuming the response will still be nice and flat?
I am having trouble working out where to put the access hatch / door to the driver, it is quite a tight box. I may go for the Danley style, with a door that goes around the corner, so the floor closes the box if I stand it upright, and the floor or other enclosure sides close the box when they are horizontally stacked.
An example of the locations I work in - I appear for a second or so to check on the artist at the start
An easy gig - 3 DI boxes and a mic!
TomtationLive@CaveClub Salzburg - YouTube
Regards, Ben
I don't at this point in time need 140 dB @20 Hz. Low to mid 130s would be nice.
But I do need a system for electronic, dnb and dubstep indoor gigs with 50 - 200 people.
Therefore I decided to use your design, just build a smaller number.
Am I wrong in assuming the response will still be nice and flat?
I am having trouble working out where to put the access hatch / door to the driver, it is quite a tight box. I may go for the Danley style, with a door that goes around the corner, so the floor closes the box if I stand it upright, and the floor or other enclosure sides close the box when they are horizontally stacked.
An example of the locations I work in - I appear for a second or so to check on the artist at the start
An easy gig - 3 DI boxes and a mic!TomtationLive@CaveClub Salzburg - YouTube
Regards, Ben
And for now, I'm stuck with this design
as I started the build before getting your message regarding different sizing.
Everything is in place except
The only option (without making a real hash of the pretty boxes) I do have is to change the position or angle of the baffle within the box.
Regards, Ben
as I started the build before getting your message regarding different sizing.
Everything is in place except
The only option (without making a real hash of the pretty boxes) I do have is to change the position or angle of the baffle within the box.
Regards, Ben
Just make it straight... that'll be better than the reverse taper.
Thanks for looking into this!
JBell, thanks for providing product support!
Is this correct?
If the board is straight, this will
- make the extension less flat?
- increase the sensitivity and power handling?
- but forcing me to move the highpass higher than 20 Hz?
Should I also centre the baffle like in JustinT's very simple TH?
Regards, Ben
(spreading the word about TH in Austria)
JBell, thanks for providing product support!
Is this correct?
If the board is straight, this will
- make the extension less flat?
- increase the sensitivity and power handling?
- but forcing me to move the highpass higher than 20 Hz?
Should I also centre the baffle like in JustinT's very simple TH?
Regards, Ben
(spreading the word about TH in Austria)
yep, should raise a couple hz in tuning, help in the xmax department in band, and increase sensitivity a bit.
Sounds like a great and simple fix - and an upgrade!
So we just move the highpass up to maybe 25 Hz? or would 30 be safer?
Then I could hit it with the output of an EP 2500, using the internal 30 Hz filter, and it could power the whole sixpack?
Regards, Ben
So we just move the highpass up to maybe 25 Hz? or would 30 be safer?
Then I could hit it with the output of an EP 2500, using the internal 30 Hz filter, and it could power the whole sixpack?
Regards, Ben
Plan C?
I guess I jumped in to this a little quickly, so now I'm trying to think it all over again.
Would it be OK to leave the baffle angled as in the plan, but close off the smaller side of the horn, and open the other, i.e. to switch the side of the mouth and reverse the taper?
Would this make the cutoff frequency around 30 Hz or as high as the stadium horn?
Regards, Ben
P.S.
Plan D - make two switchable fronts, which can be switched if necessary, depending on gig - high volume or ultra-low bass... Please tell me it isn't stupid!
I guess I jumped in to this a little quickly, so now I'm trying to think it all over again.
Would it be OK to leave the baffle angled as in the plan, but close off the smaller side of the horn, and open the other, i.e. to switch the side of the mouth and reverse the taper?
Would this make the cutoff frequency around 30 Hz or as high as the stadium horn?
Regards, Ben
P.S.
Plan D - make two switchable fronts, which can be switched if necessary, depending on gig - high volume or ultra-low bass... Please tell me it isn't stupid!
you're overthinking... the taper positive, straight, or negative only affects things about by a db or so, and a couple hz at most.
straight gives you 25hz, and that's the best compromise in my opinion.
You do need to limit to 40v, if you want to keep below xmax in the passband. (maximum excursion at 32hz)
attached is 6 speakers at 40v each in 2pi.
straight gives you 25hz, and that's the best compromise in my opinion.
You do need to limit to 40v, if you want to keep below xmax in the passband. (maximum excursion at 32hz)
attached is 6 speakers at 40v each in 2pi.
Attachments
I'd nudge the baffle a bit just to give a full cm clearance... Not for any other reason than it'd make me feel better. I'd also glue some thin open cell foam to the board directly behind the driver, to kind of dampen the sound of any port noise. It's amazing how much port noise that driver actually makes.
Port noise
Very true, I have considerable port noise in my lone SS15 when using it with the main speakers muted. The noise disappears when I'm listening to music properly.
Thanks for the advice, I'll give the baffles a nudge in the right direction!
Regards, Ben
P.S. Thanks for being so generous with your advice! Off the top of your head - I'll trust your educated guess better then my fumbling in the dark with hornresp! - would the SS15 be OK loaded with regular kappa 15 a (with their relatively tiny xmax) if I keep them high passed @50 Hz with 100 Watts and @ 80 Hz for 200 Watts?
Very true, I have considerable port noise in my lone SS15 when using it with the main speakers muted. The noise disappears when I'm listening to music properly.
Thanks for the advice, I'll give the baffles a nudge in the right direction!
Regards, Ben
P.S. Thanks for being so generous with your advice! Off the top of your head - I'll trust your educated guess better then my fumbling in the dark with hornresp! - would the SS15 be OK loaded with regular kappa 15 a (with their relatively tiny xmax) if I keep them high passed @50 Hz with 100 Watts and @ 80 Hz for 200 Watts?
kappa pro 15 lf2 yes, not sure I'd run the kappa 15a's even though they sim ok with the 50hz hp you specify.
I've actually made 'diapers' for my stadium horns to eliminate the port noise, because I can hear it... (wrap a bit of acoustic cotton in some acoustic fabric, and strap to the back of the driver) The port noise isn't as bad on the ss15, because it's high passed higher.. but still there. Since you are running deeper on this, I think port noise will be a consideration.
I've actually made 'diapers' for my stadium horns to eliminate the port noise, because I can hear it... (wrap a bit of acoustic cotton in some acoustic fabric, and strap to the back of the driver) The port noise isn't as bad on the ss15, because it's high passed higher.. but still there. Since you are running deeper on this, I think port noise will be a consideration.
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