The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

amp6 basic question

Finally almost finished with my boominator with the help of Adrien but have a question about the amp6 basic, revision 1.1

I have everything connected and it sounds good but I can't figure out how to add power without getting a "thump" in the speakers. J2 has 4 pins. First pair of pins have jumper in place and amp is "awake". Second pair of pins without jumper should "mute" amp but the jumper has no effect on my amp (music continues to play). I added a switch here but again it has no effect (music continues to play with switch on or off.

Does this mean that the mute function is not working on my amp6? Any other way to add power without the speaker thump?...tried main power source and "awake" pins at J2 but both result in speaker thump. I assume this will damage my speakers over time?

I guess I will have to buy a MaxAmp20 replacement to solve the problem? Does accusafe ship to the US?

Thanks for any help.
 
Oh! how i wish to know how to calculate the volume of sections and dimensions of ports...I can't use the dynamics that must be used (as described in the beginning of thread), and i will have to choose another items which are in stock in of our local stores. So if someone can explain how to calculate boominator when it would be so very fine...
 
Finally almost finished with my boominator with the help of Adrien but have a question about the amp6 basic, revision 1.1

I have everything connected and it sounds good but I can't figure out how to add power without getting a "thump" in the speakers. J2 has 4 pins. First pair of pins have jumper in place and amp is "awake". Second pair of pins without jumper should "mute" amp but the jumper has no effect on my amp (music continues to play). I added a switch here but again it has no effect (music continues to play with switch on or off.

Does this mean that the mute function is not working on my amp6? Any other way to add power without the speaker thump?...tried main power source and "awake" pins at J2 but both result in speaker thump. I assume this will damage my speakers over time?

I guess I will have to buy a MaxAmp20 replacement to solve the problem? Does accusafe ship to the US?

Thanks for any help.


Oh that is strange, there's nothing really magical about the mute switch, before making wild guesses maybe you can post a picture?
And there's no danger to your speakers, the power dissipated from the thump is minuscule.
 
Oh! how i wish to know how to calculate the volume of sections and dimensions of ports...I can't use the dynamics that must be used (as described in the beginning of thread), and i will have to choose another items which are in stock in of our local stores. So if someone can explain how to calculate boominator when it would be so very fine...

You have to know the T/S parameters of the drivers to calculate the volume of the box, for that you can use WinISD which also lets you easily calculate the port dimensions.
 
Thank you very much for your reply, horst303! Yes, i have T/S parameters and i've already calculated volume and dimensions of ports for usual vented box. it's ok, it's easy.

But bominator's dynamics are bipolar to each other and the port is oblong. There no such types neither in WinISD nor in Bass Box...
 
I don't know what you mean by dynamics.

Oh! i'm sorry, i thought it's international word)) I meant DRIVERS of course.

This night the idea came into my head. What if we calculate the volume for two drivers in one box (the drivers are in one plane), using WinISD and other programs. In this case, if we choose "vented box" we get vent of cylinder shape! So:
1) we use volume of box, that we calculated for two drivers in one plane.

vIT8w2ufWFM.jpg


2) We calculate the volume of cylinder vent. And if we will press and stretch the cylinder vent we will get the oblong shaped vent with the same volume! And it will be the same shape, as boominator's

For example cylinder vent is R=25mm and H=90mm high. The volume is around 0,18. So the boominator's vent must have exactly the same volume, but the other shape.

Sorry for my bad english, i hope you understand what i mean.
 
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I actually haven't chosen any driver yet. I thought about automobile speakers, but it seems that they have a very high Qts...I bought pair of Alphard ETP 158-Z1 (they are very cheap). But their Qts=1,34 so i presume that they aren't good for neither vented nor closed box...

I also thought about Peerless SDS 830656. But it's a bit expensive...

So, i just dont know. It must be 6", it must have Qts for vented box and it must be cheap)))
 
So I finally got around to finishing up my Halfinator. I have 2 questions:

1. The noise I experienced via bluetooth has so far been with my phone (galaxy s5) only! My girlfriends phone, 2 phones of my friends and an old phone of mine all don't have this problem. I was wondering if getting a different bluetooth module would be able to solve this problem, and if so, if people have suggestions for boards that they have verified to work for them.


2. I took it out for a test with auxiliary input today. So far I only listened to it indoors and was (as Saturnus said would happen) a bit underwhelmed by both the sound but also volume. Taking it outside I realized how much better it indeed sounds out in the open. The sound reaches quite further than I expected from the inside test, being able to hear it clearly from 20 meters distance while still being able to have a conversation while standing next to it (instead of earshattering loudness). While this is something I definitely like, I was wondering if it wasn't supposed to be actually louder. Perhaps I lost some gain in my setup. Keep in mind it has 6S LiFePO battery.

I had my phone connected via auxiliary cable to the bluetooth module. From the bluetooth module I used this schematic given by Saturnus a few pages ago to sum to mono

246857d1311841872-mono-stereo-passively-help-sought-stereo-mono-passive.jpg


This output was then connceted to a 10K potmeter to create a volume knob, and from there it goes to my tpa3116d2 amp which I modded to a 32 dB gain already by replacing the 20K resistor to ground with a 39K resistor. According to this sheet http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slos708/slos708.pdf page 14, I can increase the gain even further to 36dB by putting a 47K resistor there.

Is something off here?
 
Anyone?
Just after advise on how to test/confirm chip status and cheapest place to get a new chip in Aus?

Hey all,

Soo I've had my Amp9 soldered up and sitting in the cupboard with the rest of the gear for my signature boominator for like 12 months while other projects have taken the limelight (and my cash).
Today i decided to test out the Amp9 to make sure it actually worked.... and it doesn't :-(
I've found another thread, Saturnus, where you mentioned that the AM jumper on J2 also needs to be closed/jumped. I didn't realise this and I suspect i've blown the tripath chip.
This is the thread i refer to;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/250903-amp9-basic-help-nothing-happens-when-powered.html

I have now jumped the j2 AM jumper
I have Awake LED on
Mute LED off (actually can't get this to turn on even if i jump the mute jumper??)
D2 is green/on
Tripath chip gets warm/hot when powered but no sound.

I have two questions;
  1. How can i confirm that the chip is indeed fried?
  2. Is there anywhere in Australia where i can get a new TAA4100A chip? i looked online and shipping from the UK is like 18-50 USD... seems excessive for something that weighs a few grams.

Thanks in advance.
 
If this all is not working, you should go for a BT-module with differential output, using an amp with differential inputs.
Adding common-mode chokes (few turns around hihg-perm ferrite core) for L/GND, R/GND, VCC/GND and L/R/GND pairs may also help. If the noise is caused by RF pick up then it's worth using low-perm common-mode chokes (like the ones used in VGA/DVI cables).
 
Is it possible to use a 4S LiPo battery charger as a solar controller/charger or is this not efficient enough? Just use solar panels as input for the DC charger. For example this one:

Turnigy B4 Compact 35W 4A Automatic Balance Charger 2~4S Lipoly

EDIT: I see that 4S lipo is 14.8 V which is more than a 4S LiFePO4 (12.8 V which is perfect). But my question still holds: does it make sense to use a solar panel as input for an automatic balance charger?
 
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Is it possible to use a 4S LiPo battery charger as a solar controller/charger or is this not efficient enough? Just use solar panels as input for the DC charger. For example this one:

Turnigy B4 Compact 35W 4A Automatic Balance Charger 2~4S Lipoly

EDIT: I see that 4S lipo is 14.8 V which is more than a 4S LiFePO4 (12.8 V which is perfect). But my question still holds: does it make sense to use a solar panel as input for an automatic balance charger?

Yes. It is possible if the charger has a wide enough operating voltage range, and the solar panel is within that range and usually above 12v.
For example:
The IMAX B6 lipo battery charger accepts 11-18v
There are many 18v solar panels available. An 18v solar panel is only delivering 18v at optimum sun and optimum temperature, so its usually less. So its perfect for this charger.
Also from my experience with lipos if the charge cycle stops and re-starts they are un-effected. So when the clouds come in and the voltage drops too low, the charging will stop. You will have to manually restart the charge cycle again when the sun comes back out. That might get old on some days.
To get around this you will have to find a lipo charger that will start as soon as it get enough power. Many chargers do that but i know of none that also balance charge that way.
I use a 15ah lipo with my boom box and it is very rare indeed that i need to solar charge. I leave the charger at home unless i'm party-camping for multiple days. Which is not as often these days!