hello saturnus! i love ur tread! i havent read all the 594 pages yet, (im at 203 right now)
I got some fast questions for u if its okey!
1) what AMP do u recommend now? when amp6 is not available anymore?
2) i got battery, and speakers. i need to get the 150 ohm resistor for the tweeters i quess? and volume knob i quess. anything more? (got all the build materials and the bluetooth 12V )
3) Do u got any tip or something else for a beginner like me?
Greetings from Sweden!
I got some fast questions for u if its okey!
1) what AMP do u recommend now? when amp6 is not available anymore?
2) i got battery, and speakers. i need to get the 150 ohm resistor for the tweeters i quess? and volume knob i quess. anything more? (got all the build materials and the bluetooth 12V )
3) Do u got any tip or something else for a beginner like me?
Greetings from Sweden!
hello saturnus! i love ur tread! i havent read all the 594 pages yet, (im at 203 right now)
I got some fast questions for u if its okey!
1) what AMP do u recommend now? when amp6 is not available anymore?
2) i got battery, and speakers. i need to get the 150 ohm resistor for the tweeters i quess? and volume knob i quess. anything more? (got all the build materials and the bluetooth 12V )
3) Do u got any tip or something else for a beginner like me?
Greetings from Sweden!
Regarding 1, the generally preferred amp right now is the MaxAmp, although the built-from-the-ground-up-for-Boominator cAMP will be available this summer.
As for 2, sounds like you have the basics, although I don't think 150 ohm is the recommended starting point for tempering the piezo tweeters - try 47 ohms, and get extra so you can try different configurations. You will need wiring, obviously, and a fuse if your battery doesn't have one.
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Hi! New member at the forums, great thread this! I am in the process of building my own Boominator (haven't tried anything like this before, but I do have some knowledge in electronics): Got a question regarding a battery; I am thinking of buying a LiFePO4 battery instead of the standard acid ones due to weight reasons. I've managed to find one with a pretty good price
ACCU-12.8V-10AH - Rechargeable battery: Li-FePO4 | TME - Electronic components
but I got some questions about it.
ACCU-12.8V-10AH - Rechargeable battery: Li-FePO4 | TME - Electronic components
but I got some questions about it.
- What is the circuit board on the side of it? My guess would be that it is some sort of battery protection thing, but what does that exactly do?
- If I am to charge the battery, would one of these suffice? SK-100052 SKYRC - Charger: modelling | TME - Electronic components
- Is there anything else I might need for the battery other then these two parts? Excluding wiring, fuses etc.
Did you say you had a boominator fall off a truck at one point and it was fine?
I did some testing of glues on hand (for the phenolic ply only) and found that the Gorilla glue works well but JB Weld is even better superior. It also is prohibitively expensive to use for the whole assembly. It is what I would recommend to the 'flat pack' buyers for gluing the drivers to the center brace.
As for clean up of the gorilla glue, it is fairly easy with the phenolic ply.
Not essential at all, it's good because you don't have to spend time and money coating it, the negatives are that it was designed for not sticking to concrete so gluing it is not as satisfying, it's really more bug than feature.
Absolutely not essential but if you can deal with the peculiarities of gluing it (and the cost) you will be rewarded. It is stiffer than any other ply I have worked with, is truly void free, the glues are rated to withstand hours of submersion in boiling water and the finish is extremely durable (it seems completely impervious to alcohols, lacquer thinner, and nail polish remover).
As for gluing, if you have dados it isn't a big deal.
As for gluing, if you have dados it isn't a big deal.
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It certainly will make assembly easier IF you get the dado's square and properly positioned. The real benefit is that when you glue up you only have to worry about the parts being square. You don't have to worry about positioning of the parts (or only to a lesser degree).
There are 2 general ways to make dados with a router. Get a bit that is exactly the right size or make 2 passes with a smaller bit. I would suggest looking for some videos on youtube or better yet seeing if there is someone local who can help you.
There are 2 general ways to make dados with a router. Get a bit that is exactly the right size or make 2 passes with a smaller bit. I would suggest looking for some videos on youtube or better yet seeing if there is someone local who can help you.
Oddly enough an American standard ½" router seems to be perfect for the job. It's 12.7mm and 12mm ply tends to be about 11.8mm which gives you and the glue ample room to work with on inner grooves and a tiny bit of overshoot on outer grooves to make sure you only need a single pass. For outer grooves set the router to cut away about 12.1-12.2mm
I *barely* managed to get my full size boomintor operational for a party at our house yesterday. All I can say is wow! It filled 1.5 acres (6,000 m^2) with sound and was a key contributor to what I think was the best party we've ever had at the house.
Thanks Saturnus!
Now I need to do the detailed work of getting the electronics compartment finalized.
Thanks Saturnus!
Now I need to do the detailed work of getting the electronics compartment finalized.
Boominator Iceland
Hi and kudos on great and "long topic", have been reading the thread for the last year or so and want to make a boominator version boombox for a festival here in the beginning of August.
Have had my own version last festivals ever since a saw those boxes in roskilde festival. but lacks power consumption and noise .)
My question is where is it best to buy in Europe now every site seems to be sold out ?
the drivers and tweeters, going for the standard version with the P-Audio HP-10W i think if i can get them, i talked to a local vendor and he reccomended the Competition GZCT 3500X-S and the E10D - Sound Storm Lab what i have read here the hp-10w seems to be the only right choice.
i have the https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-20w-stereo-audio-amplifier-class-d-max9744/overview what i understand is that is the same as the one you are using today ?
Hi and kudos on great and "long topic"
, have been reading the thread for the last year or so and want to make a boominator version boombox for a festival here in the beginning of August.Have had my own version last festivals ever since a saw those boxes in roskilde festival. but lacks power consumption and noise .)
My question is where is it best to buy in Europe now every site seems to be sold out ?
the drivers and tweeters, going for the standard version with the P-Audio HP-10W i think if i can get them, i talked to a local vendor and he reccomended the Competition GZCT 3500X-S and the E10D - Sound Storm Lab what i have read here the hp-10w seems to be the only right choice.
i have the https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-20w-stereo-audio-amplifier-class-d-max9744/overview what i understand is that is the same as the one you are using today ?
Those elements won't do it. The Boominator has been built to exactly the size of 2 HP10w's and as such, there are very few woofers that will fit the box. For a complete list, check out the Boominator.dk wiki. That site also has a list of all tweeters that can be used with the Boominator, as the specs of the tweeters need to match the specs of the woofers.
As for amplifier, all seems good.
As for amplifier, all seems good.
You can also contact Accusafe and see if they have any HP10w drivers in stock. They did a while back but they were not listed on the website.
Kistradio en Kratradio Specialist - Home
Kistradio en Kratradio Specialist - Home
The new organic photovoltaics look interesting. Good low-light performance, but perhaps too inefficient for our purposes?
infinityPV
infinityPV
They may have a legit product but the site reads like a bunch of...marketing bunk. Did anyone see normal photovoltaic specs? I see efficiency measures (at what wavelength) ant they talk about 1% and 2% cells (what is that?)but nowhere did I see an voltage or current specs. Maybe I missed it.