The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

The recipe, if you can call a DIY project a recipe, is here

Notes:
1) you will find hints, tips, and relevant information in the posts from that point forward (actually back too) mixed in with discussion of the regular Boominator. I have mixed feelings about how this thread has grown and evolved. On one hand a "how to" would be great to ensure people efficiently get to a good result. That said, I've learned a lot due to the current structure. I think that is of real value too.

2) Thus far, no one has posted photos of a completed mini (or micro) so there isn't a lot of real world experience in the forum yet. We might not see this ramp up until late June because the tweeters are out of stock right now.

3) Saturnus cautioned that the mini might not be a good first build because there is little room for the electronics. Planning ahead is key. I thought I did for my NS6 mini but there is a lot I would do differently.
Well at least you understood what I meant ;) Thx for replying.
 
I have some problem with my build...
Ive glued the braces together with one side of the magnet and when i was about to glue the other side with the other two magnets i saw there was a gap about 5mm wide. What do I use to fill this gap? Chemical metal glue? fog?

I also have another gap between the handles and the braces, not as big tho, maybe 2mm. How do i fill this one?

I suck with the saw...
 
Hi guys, I'm looking to build my own portable boombox and couldn't think of a better place to go to! At first I was going to build a full size boominator but I soon found that'd be a bit big and heavy for my needs.

I've decided upon building a very compact little unit with two 8-inch drivers (Skytronic 8Ohm, 91dB SPL, 27Hz-6kHz) and a few tweeters with crossover and possibly a Lepai LP-2020A amp.

Assuming my first choices are suitable, could you guys give any recommendations for a battery? I had a brief look at mobility scooter batteries (12V, 10-55aH capacity) but they don't seem like they'd fit the bill very well.
In an ideal world I wouldn't like to spend too much over £100, and I'm willing to put in work, having studied some electronic engineering and electromechanics, but I'm just a bit lost!
Thanks in advance :D
 
almeg, speakers are crap, amp is crap, result will be crap.

If a full size Boominator is too big. Build a halfinator or the MINI.

If you don't have budget for either, I'd urge you to either get the budget or not build anything at all. Money washed down the drain on an inferior build don't come back as you'd have no chance of selling it afterwards. A Boominator (or halfinator or MINI) have resale value.
 
Saturnus, thanks for putting it straight!

I've been rushing myself recently and it'd definitely pay off for me to have a proper trawl through these forums- that's what they're for! I'll pipe up with any further questions, but until then: are the plans out for the mini? Is there a recommended components list anywhere that I could have a look at?

Thanks again
 
Hi, here is a update from my build.

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As you can see on the last image I have this gap wich gives me sleepless nights... Saturnus you said that Chemical metal glue would be a good option but I dont really know how to get it there, its very tight...

10396322_10152085537635069_419509652_n.jpg

This is how long Ive come with the electronics, Whats my next step? Am i supposed to solder the + and - poles on the tweeters together? Its hard to explain how I meen, maybe someone can explain my next step in a better way?

Many problems and many questions! Thankfull for all the help:cheers:
 
Didn't you measure the pieces before and after cutting? Seems very strange that it can go this wrong.

Anyways. I think the best solution for you is, if you haven't yet glued both front panels on, is to get busy with the saw again and actually get the measurements correct. Filling that large a gap will only solve half the problem. The cabinet doesn't have the right dimensions as it is now so you can't expect optimum performance unless you cut the cabinet down to the size it's supposed to be.

You can probably shave off the needed 5mm or so all the way around without taking everything apart.

Did you use chemical metal between the center brace and the magnet on the other side of the brace that we can't see? If not, do it over. The magnets must be glued to the center brace with chemical metal (two-component body filler putty for the Americans). If that means having to cut new boards for some of the sides that can't be saved, so be it, consider it a learning experience. Plywood is cheap. A speaker that doesn't live up to expectations is worthless.

If you indeed have to cut new boards. Consider having it done professionally where you buy the plywood. Usually it's not much extra. SEK10 or so per cut. Somewhere in this thread is a precise and optimized cutting plan. Note that you'll only need to replace the pieces that can't be saved.
 
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Didn't you measure the pieces before and after cutting? Seems very strange that it can go this wrong.

Anyways. I think the best solution for you is, if you haven't yet glued both front panels on, is to get busy with the saw again and actually get the measurements correct. Filling that large a gap will only solve half the problem. The cabinet doesn't have the right dimensions as it is now so you can't expect optimum performance unless you cut the cabinet down to the size it's supposed to be.

You can probably shave off the needed 5mm or so all the way around without taking everything apart.

Did you use chemical metal between the center brace and the magnet on the other side of the brace that we can't see? If not, do it over. The magnets must be glued to the center brace with chemical metal (body filler epoxy putty for the Americans) . If that means having to cut new boards for some of the sides that can't be saved, so be it, consider it a learning experience. Plywood is cheap. A speaker that doesn't live up to expectations is worthless.

Damn... I think the measure problem is because I chosed to have the grills on the outside of the box and therefore the magnet gap. And I have allready glued both front and back panel on, and one of the magnets to the braces... What shall I do now? :(
 
The grill don't actually take up any space. They are not your problem.

Either your measurements are incorrect or you used force when mounting the drivers to the front/back baffles. The mounting gasket have a lot of give. Screw in lightly only to hold the speakers in place. It's the silicone and chemical metal that is supposed to hold the speaker in place. Not the screws.
 
View attachment 420099

View attachment 420100

View attachment 420101

As you can see on the last image I have this gap wich gives me sleepless nights... Saturnus you said that Chemical metal glue would be a good option but I dont really know how to get it there, its very tight...

View attachment 420102

This is how long Ive come with the electronics, Whats my next step? Am i supposed to solder the + and - poles on the tweeters together? Its hard to explain how I meen, maybe someone can explain my next step in a better way?

Many problems and many questions! Thankfull for all the help:cheers:

Hi

I ended up with a bit of a gap like that (perhaps no quite so wide) and it was because I screwed my drivers down to the baffles too hard, they only need to be held in place while the sealant goes off. I did what you suggest and I filled it with a sliver of wood and chemical metal. However, as Saturnus says, if it is down to mis measurement, you really need to fix that because the precise dimensions of the box are cruicial to the speaker tuning.

BJ
 
Ljudia gets new hp-10w's on the 15/6. Do you guys think a first timer could build this and be ready before the roskilde festival? Either our camp will buy a shitty boombox or I'll have to make this in time... I've already read this whole thread through so the theory part is pretty much set i believe, but then there's the practical part too which i'm not very sure about
 
Hi everyone,
Alright so I'm basically a complete and utter newb when it comes to building stuff like this. Anyway, as Roskilde Festival is coming and I've had enough of having a crappy soundsystem I thought I'd take the time to find out if it was realistic to build something myself, and then hopefully do it. I've been reading about this boominator malarkey and it seems the consensus is that you'll get a great system out of it.
So my questions are:
1. Is it realistic to build a halfinator or mini boominator before the 29th of June provided I can get the parts? I have June off by the way. (I believe the halfinator is the easiest to build?)
2. What are the parts needed now? I believe I've found the post containing the updated parts for the mini/micro but I haven't come across the halfinator yet.

I'm pretty sure I have access to the tools needed both for cutting the wood and doing the wiring.
By the way, wouldn't it make sense to update the OP with the relevant posts regarding changes to the set-ups etc.?

Any help is appreciated. It's all a bit confusing now.
Cheers :)