Andrew,
Thanks for the tip. I'm trying to balance the sound quality with the volume. I had looked at the speaker you mentioned but it would ideally require a 29 liter enclosure on either side of the electronics. To fit in the small trunk of my car I was looking at 15 liter enclosures on either side (which fit the first set of woofers I listed very well). Since this is really my first audio project, can someone explain what the what the theoretical performance difference would be between the 92 SPL speakers in a correctly sized enclosure and the 96 SPL speakers in an enclosure half the size of ideal. That way I can hope to make a more educated trade off. The flickr link below shows the calculated response from AJ Designer software.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3600/3459868261_96ba24be08_o.jpg
Thanks,
Aron
Thanks for the tip. I'm trying to balance the sound quality with the volume. I had looked at the speaker you mentioned but it would ideally require a 29 liter enclosure on either side of the electronics. To fit in the small trunk of my car I was looking at 15 liter enclosures on either side (which fit the first set of woofers I listed very well). Since this is really my first audio project, can someone explain what the what the theoretical performance difference would be between the 92 SPL speakers in a correctly sized enclosure and the 96 SPL speakers in an enclosure half the size of ideal. That way I can hope to make a more educated trade off. The flickr link below shows the calculated response from AJ Designer software.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3600/3459868261_96ba24be08_o.jpg
Thanks,
Aron
Most of the speaker programs will give you an algnment that is flat (Q=0.707). For outside work a peak of a coupl of dB can actually work better so you may find that putting a speaker in slightly smaller box than it would normally be used in may work out better. I think Saturns described this earlier in this thread.
You don't have to use the recomended alignments they are just options.
Regards,
Andrew
You don't have to use the recomended alignments they are just options.
Regards,
Andrew
I'm playing with WINISD and now the choice is back up in the air. I'm leaning towards the Eminence Alpha 8A's with 94 SPL and good base response. It's the slightly hard to see purple one in the graph (second highest overall peak height leveling off at 97dB).
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3578/3460941213_12c059c5e3_b.jpg
Andrew, the speaker you mentioned (green) is the most sensitive, but it looks like it won't have any bass. The 92dB(w/m) ones I said first are the red. The Eminence looks like a good compromise. The orange line is a Pioneer with at 93dB(W/m) but about half the price of the Eminence. Any advice it greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Aron
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3578/3460941213_12c059c5e3_b.jpg
Andrew, the speaker you mentioned (green) is the most sensitive, but it looks like it won't have any bass. The 92dB(w/m) ones I said first are the red. The Eminence looks like a good compromise. The orange line is a Pioneer with at 93dB(W/m) but about half the price of the Eminence. Any advice it greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Aron
Hello!
Im planning on making a homemade ghettoblaster with 2xHP10W-speakers. But i havent chosen yet which tweeters i should use. What do you think about these ones:
http://www.ljudia.fi/kaiutinelementit-s82124/diskantit-c78530/zachry-hr-019-p78543/
they are cheap 10€ at my local store. and which band-division filter would you recommend?
is 4000hz one okay?
http://www.ljudia.fi/lisatarvikkeet...akosuotimet-c79416/suodin-std-4000-hz-p79421/
Thanks for your anwsers in advance!
Im planning on making a homemade ghettoblaster with 2xHP10W-speakers. But i havent chosen yet which tweeters i should use. What do you think about these ones:
http://www.ljudia.fi/kaiutinelementit-s82124/diskantit-c78530/zachry-hr-019-p78543/
they are cheap 10€ at my local store. and which band-division filter would you recommend?
is 4000hz one okay?
http://www.ljudia.fi/lisatarvikkeet...akosuotimet-c79416/suodin-std-4000-hz-p79421/
Thanks for your anwsers in advance!
Those tweeters look similar to the little 1/2" Audax Mylar domes I used in my boombox.
By your description (2xHP10W-speakers) it sounds like you are repackaging some computer speakers. Is that right?
Crossover will depend in large part on how the units you're cannibalizing sound and how much help they need on the top end. In my boombox, I'm using fairly high-quality 4" full-range drivers (CSS FR125S), and so I just wanted a little top-end sparkle from the tweeters. So, I was able to just use a 3.3uf cap in series with it as a simple high-pass. I also added a 6 ohm resistor to attenuate the tweeter. Your tweeters are likely to be a good deal more efficient than your other drivers and will likely require this as well. Order a bunch of different low values so you can tinker. If you need to cross over at a lower frequency, a more complex crossover like the one you linked to would be necessary. There are crossover designer/calculators on the web that let you input some values and let it create a circuit for you.
BTW, I expect you will quickly want to move beyond tearing up old computer speakers and reinstalling them in different boxes. I built a couple this way, and they don't sound bad, but if you want high-quality sound, long battery life, etc., you'll probably want to move to putting things together yourself. An easy middle ground is to replace the cheap drivers with inexpensive, but better ones. Look at Tang Band or Hi-Vi as a start, especially for smaller sizes, but there are others that may be more available to you where you are.
Let us know how it progresses.
--Buckapound
By your description (2xHP10W-speakers) it sounds like you are repackaging some computer speakers. Is that right?
Crossover will depend in large part on how the units you're cannibalizing sound and how much help they need on the top end. In my boombox, I'm using fairly high-quality 4" full-range drivers (CSS FR125S), and so I just wanted a little top-end sparkle from the tweeters. So, I was able to just use a 3.3uf cap in series with it as a simple high-pass. I also added a 6 ohm resistor to attenuate the tweeter. Your tweeters are likely to be a good deal more efficient than your other drivers and will likely require this as well. Order a bunch of different low values so you can tinker. If you need to cross over at a lower frequency, a more complex crossover like the one you linked to would be necessary. There are crossover designer/calculators on the web that let you input some values and let it create a circuit for you.
BTW, I expect you will quickly want to move beyond tearing up old computer speakers and reinstalling them in different boxes. I built a couple this way, and they don't sound bad, but if you want high-quality sound, long battery life, etc., you'll probably want to move to putting things together yourself. An easy middle ground is to replace the cheap drivers with inexpensive, but better ones. Look at Tang Band or Hi-Vi as a start, especially for smaller sizes, but there are others that may be more available to you where you are.
Let us know how it progresses.
--Buckapound
I think he means the Paudio HP10W 10" woofer used in the original boominator. Which is a 95db efficient driver. Those tiny tweeters won't keep up they are only 92db efficient. Look for something in the 1" range that has a similar sensitivity, should be heaps of options. Also I would try to cross lower than 4k 2.5-3k should do the trick.
col.
col.
thanks for the advice. i think i'll use piezo tweeters so i dont need to use crossovers, just a 12ohm resistor. here would be a cheap one
http://www.ljudia.fi/kaiutinelementit-s82124/piezot-c78561/mgr-ch-5-a-p78563/ with 95dB sensitivity. becomes more cheaper aswell.
http://www.ljudia.fi/kaiutinelementit-s82124/piezot-c78561/mgr-ch-5-a-p78563/ with 95dB sensitivity. becomes more cheaper aswell.
Project
Hi. I'm Marcus.
My project is to build a "boombox" for outdoor use in the summertime and so forth. I will be using:
* A 12V car battery/allround-battery
* AMP6-Basic
* two 6x9 speakers(?)
* mp3 player.
Do you have any tips for speakers that fits the amplifier?
Do i plug my mp3 player with a rca cable to the amp6-basic?
Can the amp6 mixed with a good set of speakers deliver a nice, high, richful sound? If yes, which size of speakers & other information can be very useful to know when i buy it?
Thanks in advance, Marcus.
Hi. I'm Marcus.
My project is to build a "boombox" for outdoor use in the summertime and so forth. I will be using:
* A 12V car battery/allround-battery
* AMP6-Basic
* two 6x9 speakers(?)
* mp3 player.
Do you have any tips for speakers that fits the amplifier?
Do i plug my mp3 player with a rca cable to the amp6-basic?
Can the amp6 mixed with a good set of speakers deliver a nice, high, richful sound? If yes, which size of speakers & other information can be very useful to know when i buy it?
Thanks in advance, Marcus.
Mackosh, you probably don't want to carry around a car battery. I've had my Amp6-Basic running for about two weeks and with about 5 hours of testing and not charging my (7ah Sealed Lead Acid) battery has dropped from 13.2 V to 12.96 V. The battery is about 15cmx7cmx10cm and only weight about 2.5 kg.
Like whelibob says, you need a cable with a 3.5mm head phone style plug to go into the Amp6-Basic. 3.5mm male to male will let you go from an mp3 player to the amp.
Aron
Like whelibob says, you need a cable with a 3.5mm head phone style plug to go into the Amp6-Basic. 3.5mm male to male will let you go from an mp3 player to the amp.
Aron
Guys,
That's basically it, whelibob. You will also need a charger for the battery and some means of switching from the battery powering the amp to being charged. Look on any of the sires that specialize in batteries for an appropriate charger.
You can use an RCA or a stereo Mini to connect the MP3 player to the amp. The Amp6 comes with different resistors so you can choose the amout of gain. For portable devices like MP3 players, I have found the highest gain to work well. If you plan on using the player's volume control, then you don't need a volume control on the boombox. If you're going out of the line output (like with an iPod dock) then you will need a volume control on the boombox.
Cable from the battery is no special kind. Maybe 18 gauge or so. Twist them together.
Re-read this thread where they are talking about speaker efficiency. Some speakers make a lot more noise for the same amount of wattage, and this means your amplifier will sound a lit bigger with efficient speakers.
You should think of this as really a specialized speaker project. Saturnus has already done a lot of the work for you if you want a big monster like he's built. The specifications of the speaker driver, the size and characteristics of the cabinet, whether it's full-range or two-way, and all these things should be thought out and not just stuck together haphhazardly. I would suggest going out there and finding plans for a small pair of full-range speakers and taking the basic plans and building your box around them. You can shange the shape (within reason) as long as the volume remains the same. For reasons of simplicity and efficiency, you might look at a ported design. Try http://www.zaphaudio.com/ as a start, but there are others.
--Buckapound
That's basically it, whelibob. You will also need a charger for the battery and some means of switching from the battery powering the amp to being charged. Look on any of the sires that specialize in batteries for an appropriate charger.
You can use an RCA or a stereo Mini to connect the MP3 player to the amp. The Amp6 comes with different resistors so you can choose the amout of gain. For portable devices like MP3 players, I have found the highest gain to work well. If you plan on using the player's volume control, then you don't need a volume control on the boombox. If you're going out of the line output (like with an iPod dock) then you will need a volume control on the boombox.
Cable from the battery is no special kind. Maybe 18 gauge or so. Twist them together.
Re-read this thread where they are talking about speaker efficiency. Some speakers make a lot more noise for the same amount of wattage, and this means your amplifier will sound a lit bigger with efficient speakers.
You should think of this as really a specialized speaker project. Saturnus has already done a lot of the work for you if you want a big monster like he's built. The specifications of the speaker driver, the size and characteristics of the cabinet, whether it's full-range or two-way, and all these things should be thought out and not just stuck together haphhazardly. I would suggest going out there and finding plans for a small pair of full-range speakers and taking the basic plans and building your box around them. You can shange the shape (within reason) as long as the volume remains the same. For reasons of simplicity and efficiency, you might look at a ported design. Try http://www.zaphaudio.com/ as a start, but there are others.
--Buckapound
Thanks for the informative post. at the moment i have nearly everything settled, but im not sure about the box size. I found the volume that saturnus used(23litres for each side) and the size for the port. But if im using only two P. Audio HP10W and two tweeters, im quite sure i cant use his measurements. But ill have to try with the WinISD and then come here and ask what you think 