It is the general consensus of the DIY community over here to use 18mm ply for sub duty, even more if you are going to use as a mobile PA operator, somebody over here shared a tale that a 15mm ply sub he made only lasted for 2 or 3 gigs, the thing disintegrated apart from the forces inside the horn.
That is not my personal opinion, it is the voice of the community.
That being said, if you still want to drown , I don't think somebody will waste their time converting from 18mm to 15mm and making a cut sheet.
If that is your choice I guess you are on your own.
That is not my personal opinion, it is the voice of the community.
That being said, if you still want to drown , I don't think somebody will waste their time converting from 18mm to 15mm and making a cut sheet.
If that is your choice I guess you are on your own.
Yes I know this, every cabinet I build I add sufficient bracing to minimize flex, I just need more out of my 15s in a relatively small package you know. Bass reflex isnt cutting it and I'm totally fine with the bandwidth that the THAM15 is efficient in.
I would have gone with the SS15 but that is slightly to big for my use and I like the simplicity of the Tham, its just a nice little cute box hehehe
I would have gone with the SS15 but that is slightly to big for my use and I like the simplicity of the Tham, its just a nice little cute box hehehe
A 8mm ply box joined correctly only on the edges together with 4 trusses can take over 60hp and all the dynamic loads of years of commercial use without losing a single seam, when built correctly! And not suffer from panel resonances!
Don't intend to be rude, but just how badly is community building their boxes that a speaker can make it fly apart? I take it that you guys are all designing and making the boxes as furniture and using those practices rather than making true monocoques for holding an electric motor with reciprocating action
@Randy Bassinga I mean when I build boxes I normally leave the screws in because I like the more "rugged" look it gives, plus it gives a view of the internal panels to show other diyers how the box works when they come and take a listen.
Ok, show your 8mm plans that can take years of commercial use......
Personally I have never seen anything less than 15mm ply PA sub and that is Jbell SS15 that used 15mm ply, everthyng else use 18 ply.
But I'm not blind to some undiscovered scientific achievement, enlight me with your wisdom.
Save your sarcasm man, if you want to ignore the correct way of using ply as a panel material for motor mounted structures and rather build crates then that's your prerogative. There is a whole industry out there using ply panels with much more advanced engineering. Even the furniture in those systems recognise the dynamic loads and use the system. The only thing made as "box" is the shipping crate for the motor
Plywood construction
Here is my first attempt, in commercial use for the last 10 years and withstood a number of tropical cyclones including the category 5 Winston. 8mm ply
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.731462436942426&type=3
Here is the console that is going in my CC. This boat is a wave jumper,
How do you feel about this as PA cab for longevity over something built like a furniture box?. It's built according to the book out of 6 and 8mm
Plywood construction
Here is my first attempt, in commercial use for the last 10 years and withstood a number of tropical cyclones including the category 5 Winston. 8mm ply
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.731462436942426&type=3
Here is the console that is going in my CC. This boat is a wave jumper,
How do you feel about this as PA cab for longevity over something built like a furniture box?. It's built according to the book out of 6 and 8mm
@Randy Bassinga Ah gotcha, I do fishing as well so I recognized it the moment I saw, the boats we use are lined with it also.
Screw joints weaken a box whether in or out and filled with epoxy/whatever! Glued together with glue blocks + bracing is way stiffer; also only put the blocks along ~71%, ditto bracing in the four outside corners, leaving them as crush zones in case of a (high) drop, so ideally use mitered corners against scuffing damage since adding any aftermarket caps/whatever just makes the damage worse.
In the real world of building butt-joint cabinets like the Tham 15 from typical warped plywood, it is impossible to get air-tight glue joints without using screws to pull the pieces together.
Having repaired many cabinet built without screws, I can say cabinets with properly sized pilot holes and countersinking have glue joints stronger than without.
And construction adhesive on butt joints (as used in JBell's 1/2" SS15) makes for weak cabinets, I've taken them apart with a small fraction of the effort of good wood glue
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Understood, but whenever appropriate I will always post based on proper testing or in this case, UL/CSA drop testing, though it being owned by Eaton/Cutler-Hammer Corp, not something I could publish even if I had a copy.In the real world of building butt-joint cabinets like the Tham 15 from typical warped plywood, it is impossible to get air-tight glue joints without using screws to pull the pieces together.
Having repaired many cabinet built without screws, I can say cabinets with properly sized pilot holes and countersinking have glue joints stronger than without.
And construction adhesive on butt joints (as used in JBell's 1/2" SS15) makes for weak cabinets, I've taken them apart with a small fraction of the effort of good wood glue
Regardless, surprised such shoddy construction is used in prosound beyond prototyping, garage band apps, though in Altec's waning years of being financially gutted their (de) construction barely could withstand their hefty weight.
Anyway, if the screws are going through glue blocks to pinch the butt-joint glue seams it will make for a decent joint.
Re construction adhesive, which ones? I've had excellent long term joint seams in my other hobby of house, garage, shed, etc., construction, some finish work, though do use Titebond III for small stuff.