Scott,
That's nice; pushing the 168E Sigmas that bit more. What is Sm given the line length of 140 inches and Zdriver of 30.25 inches?
I guess with this BIB the 168ES should reach near 40Hz, nevertheless, it might still be a good idea to crossover to a sub at about 50Hz given the limited Xmax and more breathing space for even more sparkling mids. Just a thought. That is how I am going to implement mine especially being more than impressed with a Sunfire 12in Signature Trusub. I want to make two such subs loaded with Lab12s or HL10s from Eminence. I already have 5 HL10s in Tuba24s but the Lab12s would be better IMO. Anyone else with such thoughts?
The top end of this system is to be augmented by Fountek ribbons which has also been sitting on my shelf since last November.
Thanks again Scott,
That's nice; pushing the 168E Sigmas that bit more. What is Sm given the line length of 140 inches and Zdriver of 30.25 inches?
I guess with this BIB the 168ES should reach near 40Hz, nevertheless, it might still be a good idea to crossover to a sub at about 50Hz given the limited Xmax and more breathing space for even more sparkling mids. Just a thought. That is how I am going to implement mine especially being more than impressed with a Sunfire 12in Signature Trusub. I want to make two such subs loaded with Lab12s or HL10s from Eminence. I already have 5 HL10s in Tuba24s but the Lab12s would be better IMO. Anyone else with such thoughts?
The top end of this system is to be augmented by Fountek ribbons which has also been sitting on my shelf since last November.
Thanks again Scott,
Hi Samuel!
I guess you will reach 30 hz with room gain. My 5 inchers BIB's are flat to 40 hz. I wish you all the luck to try to make sub's that will have the speed of the BIB's. I own a Sunfire and it's impossible to make them work together.
EDIT: These are an older version with PR and without it, as in OB, then it's ok, however I do not use it as it's not necessary. Have all the bass I want anyway.
Good luck!
I guess you will reach 30 hz with room gain. My 5 inchers BIB's are flat to 40 hz. I wish you all the luck to try to make sub's that will have the speed of the BIB's. I own a Sunfire and it's impossible to make them work together.
EDIT: These are an older version with PR and without it, as in OB, then it's ok, however I do not use it as it's not necessary. Have all the bass I want anyway.
Good luck!
Samuel
In my 13.5 X 16 room the last thing I need for bass fundamentals is a sub of any kind, with the BIB168.
Using DSP to contour the upper register to flat, and no real need for a tweeter of any kind either. The 168 will sparkle. What they need is mileage. ----> 1000 hours.
Roger Modjeski's fabulous 13EM7 SET amp of 3 watts pushes them along nicely. This is a simple, and fantastic sounding system
www.ramlabs-musicreference.com
In my 13.5 X 16 room the last thing I need for bass fundamentals is a sub of any kind, with the BIB168.
Using DSP to contour the upper register to flat, and no real need for a tweeter of any kind either. The 168 will sparkle. What they need is mileage. ----> 1000 hours.
Roger Modjeski's fabulous 13EM7 SET amp of 3 watts pushes them along nicely. This is a simple, and fantastic sounding system
www.ramlabs-musicreference.com
down firing
Hi all
what about the Hemp 8
on the Godzilla page are two dim's
on with a bit longer line one with a shorter from GG
what woud be the difference sonicwice ??
an another silly question as my ceiling is abot 230 inches abouve ground, I do live in an old factory how to calculate speaker heigh and the cut away for the downfiring terminus ?
Why somuch preferences for the Fostex are they somuch better as Hemps ??
Hi all
what about the Hemp 8
on the Godzilla page are two dim's
on with a bit longer line one with a shorter from GG
what woud be the difference sonicwice ??
an another silly question as my ceiling is abot 230 inches abouve ground, I do live in an old factory how to calculate speaker heigh and the cut away for the downfiring terminus ?
Why somuch preferences for the Fostex are they somuch better as Hemps ??
Ok starting cutting soon .....
Hi
ok will do soon
but some of the Math pros could give me a hint for dowfiring as ceiling high is an important factor, huhhhh
My ceiling is way off standart,
so what
the ground is solid pine should give a good sound.
about 9W of SET power will explose the sound,
totally silly maybe but
me a petite blonde with brains
not frenchie at all
some pizzas and red win some BIB sound too good to be true..
Hi
ok will do soon
but some of the Math pros could give me a hint for dowfiring as ceiling high is an important factor, huhhhh
My ceiling is way off standart,
so what
the ground is solid pine should give a good sound.
about 9W of SET power will explose the sound,
totally silly maybe but
me a petite blonde with brains
not frenchie at all
some pizzas and red win some BIB sound too good to be true..
Thanks dmason and Peterbrorsson, it does appear that single driver is the way to go with the 168ESs in BIBs. I wonder what I could do with the Fountek ribbons?
However, my question still remains; what is Sm for the new proposal of Line Length of 140 inches and Zdriver of 30.25 inches?
One more question and proposal - since the best combination with this cab seems to be SET amps and other valve gear, has anyone tried a good SS amp with current drive? This could turn out to be really good, perhaps, ironing out the frequency response to look a lot flatter. Damping factor will mimic those of Valve amps, the sound lush and the bottom end should go lower and cleaner. When my BIBs do get done, I will try the Stochino amp in this arrangement as it is my reference amp.
Check this thread for further reading on this subject: http://sound.westhost.com/project56.htm
Any thoughts?
However, my question still remains; what is Sm for the new proposal of Line Length of 140 inches and Zdriver of 30.25 inches?
One more question and proposal - since the best combination with this cab seems to be SET amps and other valve gear, has anyone tried a good SS amp with current drive? This could turn out to be really good, perhaps, ironing out the frequency response to look a lot flatter. Damping factor will mimic those of Valve amps, the sound lush and the bottom end should go lower and cleaner. When my BIBs do get done, I will try the Stochino amp in this arrangement as it is my reference amp.
Check this thread for further reading on this subject: http://sound.westhost.com/project56.htm
Any thoughts?
Hi again Samuel!
Well, you have the ribbon so try it by all means. just put a switch so it's possible to turn it off.
I have put a upward firering dome in order to have a wider sweet spot. When I normally sit in the right place, I turn it off.
I've put 0.68uF in series with tweeter. If your ribbon will handle 6 db filter, I have no clue.
Cheers
Well, you have the ribbon so try it by all means. just put a switch so it's possible to turn it off.
I have put a upward firering dome in order to have a wider sweet spot. When I normally sit in the right place, I turn it off.
I've put 0.68uF in series with tweeter. If your ribbon will handle 6 db filter, I have no clue.
Cheers
Samuel,
The issue with the ribbon possibly will be a ~5db difference between the two, the ribbon being lower. The 168 is an honest to goodness 94db, and picks up some sensitivity after some mileage... The last thing you want to do is to pad down the main cone driver to match a ribbon, is my first thought.
I tried the 168 with my Hafler 250 watt 9505 amp which is Class A for the first 10 or so watts. Excellent result. Just that the Fostii are designed with tubes in mind I believe, although, when I walked in to the Fostex suite at CES two years ago, to my amazement they were using big Accuphase amps with Tungsten AC cords and strange speaker cables. It sounded great, the Madisound BK16 was playing at the time, and I was fascinated by the sound, that little kit speaker, to me at least, was one of THE stand out speakers at the show. Solid state amplification.
They also sound fabulous with my battery powered T amps.
The issue with the ribbon possibly will be a ~5db difference between the two, the ribbon being lower. The 168 is an honest to goodness 94db, and picks up some sensitivity after some mileage... The last thing you want to do is to pad down the main cone driver to match a ribbon, is my first thought.
I tried the 168 with my Hafler 250 watt 9505 amp which is Class A for the first 10 or so watts. Excellent result. Just that the Fostii are designed with tubes in mind I believe, although, when I walked in to the Fostex suite at CES two years ago, to my amazement they were using big Accuphase amps with Tungsten AC cords and strange speaker cables. It sounded great, the Madisound BK16 was playing at the time, and I was fascinated by the sound, that little kit speaker, to me at least, was one of THE stand out speakers at the show. Solid state amplification.
They also sound fabulous with my battery powered T amps.
Hemp 8
Hi
I will do it but as my ceiling height is way much more as usual
230 inches I do not know what the interaction will be with an exit so far from ceiling.
Upside down, where to position the speaker as only to flip the design the speaker will be too high for a comfortabel ear position.
I do know a lot of questions but here are two deja build upside down.
Hi
I will do it but as my ceiling height is way much more as usual
230 inches I do not know what the interaction will be with an exit so far from ceiling.
Upside down, where to position the speaker as only to flip the design the speaker will be too high for a comfortabel ear position.
I do know a lot of questions but here are two deja build upside down.
a little more in the bass region
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/index_en.htm?/hifi/ripol_en.htm
or vented million times
http://linkwitzlab.com/woofer.htm
the first does need only modest power I do guess
as a TL would look rather strange aside a BIB...twin towers
I do not like
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/index_en.htm?/hifi/ripol_en.htm
or vented million times
http://linkwitzlab.com/woofer.htm
the first does need only modest power I do guess
as a TL would look rather strange aside a BIB...twin towers
I do not like
my amp
and that will be..... hopelly by december my amp
http://www.stoetkit.nl/stoetkit2.php
did found the Hemp 8.01 in Germany so no customs I'm happy ....
and that will be..... hopelly by december my amp
http://www.stoetkit.nl/stoetkit2.php
did found the Hemp 8.01 in Germany so no customs I'm happy ....
Why on Earth are you worrying about the bass? That's the last thing you need to be concerned about.
See those 1/2 space graphs on the Zilla site? 1/2 space means you will get the level of bass indicated on the graphs out of the speaker if it's standing in the middle of a field. The room will simply extend what is there (which is not exactly lacking), and help to kill the ripple in the response. If you've a rear wall or two, you'll be fine.
See those 1/2 space graphs on the Zilla site? 1/2 space means you will get the level of bass indicated on the graphs out of the speaker if it's standing in the middle of a field. The room will simply extend what is there (which is not exactly lacking), and help to kill the ripple in the response. If you've a rear wall or two, you'll be fine.
so what
First of all
I do not have a rear wall, they have to be 5 feet from the wall
it is a factory with rather big windows build middle of 17 century.
I do not have corners as in one is the entry and the other the stairs to the galery.
It is a Loft one huge big room, working, designing fashion, sewing maschine and books and about 1000 disks, a professional tape recorder and other bizzare things ..LOL, kitchen, living, with above half the room a gallery, bathroom master sleeping.
Where I do have to place them my ceiling is 24 feet heigh !!!!!!
or more than 7 meters,
the ground will be solid pine !!
My question allways the same SORRY for that...
As ceiling reflection is important and here in France ceilings are in the center of Bordeaux verrz often 15 to 18 feet
mine is not special at all
what upon downfiring and how to calculate ??
If downfiring Zdriver will be where ?
= Driver xx" down from sealed end
That is my question...
First of all
I do not have a rear wall, they have to be 5 feet from the wall
it is a factory with rather big windows build middle of 17 century.
I do not have corners as in one is the entry and the other the stairs to the galery.
It is a Loft one huge big room, working, designing fashion, sewing maschine and books and about 1000 disks, a professional tape recorder and other bizzare things ..LOL, kitchen, living, with above half the room a gallery, bathroom master sleeping.
Where I do have to place them my ceiling is 24 feet heigh !!!!!!
or more than 7 meters,
the ground will be solid pine !!
My question allways the same SORRY for that...
As ceiling reflection is important and here in France ceilings are in the center of Bordeaux verrz often 15 to 18 feet
mine is not special at all
what upon downfiring and how to calculate ??
If downfiring Zdriver will be where ?
= Driver xx" down from sealed end
That is my question...
Downfiring makes no difference to the calculations, though you'd need to chop the terminus at an angle so it's actually venting into the room, not sealed to the floor. Zdriver doesn't change either. It's always taken as a particular distance from the sealed end. Inverting the cabinet makes no difference to it's place along the line.
I'm not convinced you're looking at the right sort of speaker for your room here though, now we've got more information on it. If I were you, I'd probably look toward either a mass-loaded type (Greg's ML pipe for the B200 instantly springs to mind), which don't need any boundaries at all, or a horn like the Fostex Factory design for the FE208ESigma which will do your room justice, and, though it looks complicated, is a very easy build as it's all right angles. I'd got for those over a BIB (yes, I did say that!) in your circumstances.
I'm not convinced you're looking at the right sort of speaker for your room here though, now we've got more information on it. If I were you, I'd probably look toward either a mass-loaded type (Greg's ML pipe for the B200 instantly springs to mind), which don't need any boundaries at all, or a horn like the Fostex Factory design for the FE208ESigma which will do your room justice, and, though it looks complicated, is a very easy build as it's all right angles. I'd got for those over a BIB (yes, I did say that!) in your circumstances.
Merci
First of all
a very good reponse , a great forum, a great place
So where to go getting more information about it
>>a mass-loaded type (Greg's ML pipe for the B200 instantly springs to mind
Did found that with a Hemp
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4956567P5181098-KITS-FINISHED/VADIM-Horn-project.aspx
and a tweeter that could go with
http://www.alcone.de/index_en.htm the AC 15
at 94 db with a small horn as Edgar
First of all
a very good reponse , a great forum, a great place
So where to go getting more information about it
>>a mass-loaded type (Greg's ML pipe for the B200 instantly springs to mind
Did found that with a Hemp
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4956567P5181098-KITS-FINISHED/VADIM-Horn-project.aspx
and a tweeter that could go with
http://www.alcone.de/index_en.htm the AC 15
at 94 db with a small horn as Edgar
I cut wood today
I am making a BIB mule as a sample.
Cut some wood already so there's no going back.
I'm making this post to show that some actual work is
being done.
What I'll be doing with this one for the Fostex 127e is
have the right dims as given previously as 49.5 in.
and make a false bottom so that the driver center
down 19.5 in from the top is also 41 in standard ear height
from the floor. I'll maybe put some bricks or other
stuff I find in the cavity.
Other thing that always gives me fits is getting the
hole centered. I know how to work the diagonal
and work my way up from a caliper sized center to
a scratch awl, drill that through and then use the
hole saw. With all that I still see my centers slightly
off by the time I get up to the centering bit on the
hole saw.
What I thought of doing is have the hole saw centering
bit re-machined to a brad point bit. Is that possible
and how much to have such a job done at a small
machine or sharpening shop? I've wanted to do
that for some time but figured the cost would be
exorbitant (i.e. over $5.00). I don't know if the metal
can be remachine effectively.
Finally my question is on supra baffles. I have some
precut elliptical (oval) plaques. How do I find the
center of those things?
Haven't cut my driver hole yet. I'm waiting for the
right moment tomorrow.
I am making a BIB mule as a sample.
Cut some wood already so there's no going back.
I'm making this post to show that some actual work is
being done.
What I'll be doing with this one for the Fostex 127e is
have the right dims as given previously as 49.5 in.
and make a false bottom so that the driver center
down 19.5 in from the top is also 41 in standard ear height
from the floor. I'll maybe put some bricks or other
stuff I find in the cavity.
Other thing that always gives me fits is getting the
hole centered. I know how to work the diagonal
and work my way up from a caliper sized center to
a scratch awl, drill that through and then use the
hole saw. With all that I still see my centers slightly
off by the time I get up to the centering bit on the
hole saw.
What I thought of doing is have the hole saw centering
bit re-machined to a brad point bit. Is that possible
and how much to have such a job done at a small
machine or sharpening shop? I've wanted to do
that for some time but figured the cost would be
exorbitant (i.e. over $5.00). I don't know if the metal
can be remachine effectively.
Finally my question is on supra baffles. I have some
precut elliptical (oval) plaques. How do I find the
center of those things?
Haven't cut my driver hole yet. I'm waiting for the
right moment tomorrow.
not Bib but Vadim Horn
tried to make a new thread
as the search gave a lot but no result
upon Hemped horns not BIB ish
but told mz...saerch the forum
so a bit bizzare but
Hallo
as a BIB is not suited for my room,
to big, no corners to use....
ceiling 23 feet above, and living in a late 17th century factory flat, in the acient part of Bordeaux 12th century and 14th century buildings ar only two steps away.
Who has a glue about this
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4956567P5181098-KITS-FINISHED/VADIM-Horn-project.aspx
The Hamp looks very promising and is much more cheaper and less DIVA like as any Lowther or AER.
I do like horns as they do play music like no other speaker.
I love this amp
and not so $$$$ for the two
http://www.stoetkit.nl/stoetkit2.php
who knows about that horn with a somet freanch sounding name
google and copernic showed only e-spaeker
what else is out there if it does not need corners with a fullrage ..maybe Hemp as horn.
Or what else with a plan to build as horn with mids
for female voice, classic, hard rock, jazz,
eg normal music taste ..modern french rap
and a decend bass
maybe with a Fostex or Visaton compression driver as tweeter
but not more as 2 ways please
The Hemp WHy ?????
me not french at all an UK-German mix Heinz 56 Varieties
have done visinting http://www.boxen-baustelle.de/
they are the distributor for the Hemp
and have a somewhat TL spaeker in a hemped version on show.
Even in this cheap trick loudspeaker the sound was really fantastic and not L..ther esoteric, not purist Hifi, simply fantastic and deja bass was quite real for me. Anzway sexy beast II was not my cup of tea way from being perfect
a long one
me a petite blonde with brains LOL
not building amps or speakers first time, build my own guitar and even kitchen, rebuild my Garrad and piano
Glamour will never die
in arts, fashion and Muzik
enjoy
tried to make a new thread
as the search gave a lot but no result
upon Hemped horns not BIB ish
but told mz...saerch the forum
so a bit bizzare but
Hallo
as a BIB is not suited for my room,
to big, no corners to use....
ceiling 23 feet above, and living in a late 17th century factory flat, in the acient part of Bordeaux 12th century and 14th century buildings ar only two steps away.
Who has a glue about this
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4956567P5181098-KITS-FINISHED/VADIM-Horn-project.aspx
The Hamp looks very promising and is much more cheaper and less DIVA like as any Lowther or AER.
I do like horns as they do play music like no other speaker.
I love this amp
and not so $$$$ for the two
http://www.stoetkit.nl/stoetkit2.php
who knows about that horn with a somet freanch sounding name
google and copernic showed only e-spaeker
what else is out there if it does not need corners with a fullrage ..maybe Hemp as horn.
Or what else with a plan to build as horn with mids
for female voice, classic, hard rock, jazz,
eg normal music taste ..modern french rap
and a decend bass
maybe with a Fostex or Visaton compression driver as tweeter
but not more as 2 ways please
The Hemp WHy ?????
me not french at all an UK-German mix Heinz 56 Varieties
have done visinting http://www.boxen-baustelle.de/
they are the distributor for the Hemp
and have a somewhat TL spaeker in a hemped version on show.
Even in this cheap trick loudspeaker the sound was really fantastic and not L..ther esoteric, not purist Hifi, simply fantastic and deja bass was quite real for me. Anzway sexy beast II was not my cup of tea way from being perfect
a long one
me a petite blonde with brains LOL
not building amps or speakers first time, build my own guitar and even kitchen, rebuild my Garrad and piano
Glamour will never die
in arts, fashion and Muzik
enjoy
Re: I cut wood today
Lon, why not use a router with a Jasper jig (as talked about earlier in the thread)? You don't even have to buy the jig, just make one yourself - a piece of formica or thin kerf of something dimensionally stable that attaches to your router base and has holes for nails at measured distances out from the bit. drive the nail into the center of the circle through the right spot in the jig and simply route it out with a plunge router. No wobbles.
Lon, why not use a router with a Jasper jig (as talked about earlier in the thread)? You don't even have to buy the jig, just make one yourself - a piece of formica or thin kerf of something dimensionally stable that attaches to your router base and has holes for nails at measured distances out from the bit. drive the nail into the center of the circle through the right spot in the jig and simply route it out with a plunge router. No wobbles.
loninappleton said:I am making a BIB mule as a sample.
Cut some wood already so there's no going back.
I'm making this post to show that some actual work is
being done.
What I'll be doing with this one for the Fostex 127e is
have the right dims as given previously as 49.5 in.
and make a false bottom so that the driver center
down 19.5 in from the top is also 41 in standard ear height
from the floor. I'll maybe put some bricks or other
stuff I find in the cavity.
Other thing that always gives me fits is getting the
hole centered. I know how to work the diagonal
and work my way up from a caliper sized center to
a scratch awl, drill that through and then use the
hole saw. With all that I still see my centers slightly
off by the time I get up to the centering bit on the
hole saw.
What I thought of doing is have the hole saw centering
bit re-machined to a brad point bit. Is that possible
and how much to have such a job done at a small
machine or sharpening shop? I've wanted to do
that for some time but figured the cost would be
exorbitant (i.e. over $5.00). I don't know if the metal
can be remachine effectively.
Finally my question is on supra baffles. I have some
precut elliptical (oval) plaques. How do I find the
center of those things?
Haven't cut my driver hole yet. I'm waiting for the
right moment tomorrow.